sixwheeledbeast

Was there a question? Replace and/or resite the breakglass if that's the most appropriate equipment to use, it's not fit for the job as is.

As we say above, if a blinking LED is the only think provided by the manufacturer this should only be used as a visual human indicator not to control something. We do understand your problem and while it can be done with engineering something; either from discretes, semis and logic or even software on a SBC, we are looking at a different level. Being involved in safety and security systems we are looking at the risk of something like this, maybe this isn't how it works over the pond but modifying kit like this would put the liability on you if it failed. If the manufacturers design it to have a failure output to use then this would be tested to the standards required and if that failed you would take it up with them. Your kit wouldn't be tested to the same standards and while you are understandably trying to keep your kit electrically isolated from the manufacturers it would still be classed as a modification removing any conformity the equipment has. Over here it happens, companies will build projects using all parts that are 'xy' rated believing the end product they supply has that conformity. It's not how it works all the components may have never been tested with each other before. For things that are not critical maybe this is never discovered, but if something fails in a critical system questions will be asked, most likely in court. Even something as simple as mixing manufacturers of electrical breakers within a consumer unit, if a fire occurs this maybe to blame. Manufacturers are not going to be testing conformity of there kit with every other manufacturer just to make sure you can use what you have on the shelf...

Can't rely on automatic detection of a flashing LED for a safety system, as above if the equipment doesn't have a fault interface your peeing in the wind.

Alarms aren't magic they don't switch on and off like that. They require commissioning and decommissioning by an alarm engineer. They are designed so they can't be bypassed in a power cut without activating. If they are maintained regularly alarms do not activate during a power loss and can run from backup for 8 hours or more. You should contact the installer, failing that find some other installer to "decommission" it. Or if DIY go up a ladder and mess with it at your own risk. Not sure if considered "brutal" as would be messing about up ladders with possible high voltages.

In basic terms it could be anything. A multimeter and knowledge of how to use it would be a start. System is likely in tamper lockout, find the tamper find the fault.

Who told you it needed a battery? Has a fuse blown? Does the charging circuit actually work? Have you put the lid on and reset it?

The risk is just too great to allow third party access for the functionality you get IMO. It wouldn't be allowed in an IT setting and they are more likely to have full time admins looking for suspicious activity.

Those konnected.io things aren't a proper alarm, so don't expect them to be 100% compatible with alarm sounders... Never fitted one but I suspect it one of those things that takes a 16Ohm input and makes it into a soundbomb piezo thing.

Even got classic NiCD battery not the newer NiMH...

I think I still have a clear one knocking about... I wonder if it sells.

There are planning permission issues for installers fitting illuminated boxes on most sites anyway. I wouldn't ever fit them, in fact I have removed a good few of the LED strips from these Ody X's over the years. Given some more time now from the OP I'd say 25% that I removed have eventually become flaky or failed. Pretty simple to remove, it's a clever design having it modular like that; although I suspect they may have been running a bit hot. Have seen two different LED types one better than the other. The modules that do continue to work, nicely modify into decent camping lights...

Oh a Citadel XR2... so an Accenta. Bell comes with instructions follow the ADE one. Five wires, negative strobe.

and you can mix SEOL and DEOL? Some panels set it for the whole system not per zone. Don't know the Flex.

Does a Flex support SEOL or even DP for that matter?

DEOL (Double End of Line), will never work correctly without the shunt resistor across the zone in the device. You will also not find a panel that supports much more than 3 devices via DEOL. Your current system is SEOL which you could get away with that.

You say it's not an option... but that's what I would do. Wouldn't entertain all that stuff on one zone.

Keeps all passwords in a book, won't do internet banking but has CCTV... Daily Mail reader? It's understanding what the risks are, some are lower priority than others to a lot of people. I don't trust anything with my data and if some data is required I consider what would happen if it was mishandled. Happy to not use whatever it is if there is no trust, for work I use the same standards, wouldn't fit anything for a customer I wouldn't use myself. There is a big difference between knowing you like wearing M&S dressing gowns and identify theft, but either could be possible depending on what data is collected over time.

Do not feed the monkeys...

That's fine, I must value my security and privacy much higher then... They have history, the v1 model pre-2022 found to have huge security issues and they ignored the issues then EOL instead of fixing it. https://www.bitdefender.com/files/News/CaseStudies/study/413/Bitdefender-PR-Whitepaper-WCam-creat5991-en-EN.pdf and leaking all there customer emails and API data before that...

Use the Texecom to ADE instructions in the bell manual? I replaced an L4 for another must be 15 years ago, was the last one at the wholesalers probably old stock too.

More DIY CCTV tat with security issues. https://www.theverge.com/2023/9/8/23865255/wyze-security-camera-feeds-web-view-issue

Transistorised. Handy Little Relay, Bentley or Interface Solutions are some brands we get here. Not sure were you would shoehorn these in mind you, as for our standards it should be within the tampered enclosure. I'd just take wire from straight from the controls for this reason.

White light filters minimise the risk of a FA, sometimes installations don't lend themselves to installing the best way. Especially in retro situations. Often for example on a landing the best corner is over the stairs. I wouldn't install there due to future access issues so then your usually left with facing a window. They have some tolerance but you minimise the risks just like anything else. I'm not saying a good quality quad couldn't be fine. When you have the option available you install them in the best possible corners. Which the simple version is always pointing away from sources of light and heat (the sun) and perpendicular to the movement of any possible intruder. All manufacturers instructions say this and if you ignore it and have a false alarm it's your own fault. Had a job Tuesday were some tool had pointed a Honeywell PIR at a patio door in an open plan extension, it had false alarmed every day all the week prior. The system is 5 months old fitted by some clueless spark (scribbled colours/terminals on manuals...), seems to be a mess. It's only just started these FA's but you can see from the time in the log it's happening during the day when it's competing with the sun on the back patio. Re-siting has solved it, maybe a quad could but I don't see that as the correct solution... it's just a workaround, the bad positioning was the issue and would still be there IMO. Anyway, tis true G3 is pointless at a DIY level, it's much greater chance of headaches than ever genuinely detecting what it's there for. It could also affect everything I am saying about positioning. For example, they are designed for open commercial spaces if your fitting in corners with possibly of curtains or tall furniture you may have to consider a less ideal corner. Master bed you have cupboard doors opening onto the ideal corners, this will likely cause a mask. Or if not and maybe you left the doors open you have no detection. There is more to design than the ideal manufacturers instructions or looking at top view building plans and more unnecessary issues to jungle throwing G3 components in the mix.

48 would be more than enough, it's will never be a G3 system but you seem to be aspiring to that spec. Have you considered standby time, I prefer more PSU's i.e. PSU200XP and 7Ah batteries over 17Ah. In fairness some of this is completely pointless overkill (we have to assume the risk based on DIY), your bound to have unnecessary headaches with G3 kit which is some of PJ's point. I still can't agree pointing any movement sensors towards windows/openings is in anyway correct or has faster detection, you'll also never find a manufacturers instructions to concur with this. You can get crosstalk with MW, I only fit Optex ones with anti-crosstalk but none of your sensors are close enough. I'd say it's only the "pointless" hall one with any chance of MW leakage outside the protected area, I'd also assume K band MW which has less wall penetration.