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sixwheeledbeast

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Everything posted by sixwheeledbeast

  1. sixwheeledbeast
    No contact details in posts please. Can you PM or contact vetting to resolve any account issues, thanks.
  2. sixwheeledbeast
    Piezo speaker drivers are generally driven from a supply of 2-5V. Within the driver oscillator circuit this is normally increased upto 30V to increase the volume output. Although implementation of electronics and components may vary by manufacturer. They should not be a shock hazard like the strobe circuit would be, although I am certainly not recommending you poke components within your favourite brand of glowy flashy thing.
  3. sixwheeledbeast
    I have helped with computer problems, car problems, got stuff out the loft, changed batteries in things etc but never done any gardening.
  4. sixwheeledbeast
    Maybe that's the way forward, offer to walk the dog and do the garden while on a resi service.
  5. sixwheeledbeast
    Old menu structure with loads of new features stuffed in it's bound to happen the industry is forever changing. The only option is to replace with a new product and look what happened to Menvier.
  6. sixwheeledbeast
    What have you tried so far? Can you break down what and how you have tested?
  7. sixwheeledbeast
    I would never use Suites, they normally require timed setting for them to function properly, which i would never do. Keypad 1 and 2 for A (including a part arm) and Keypad 3 for B is the best method.
  8. sixwheeledbeast
    I was going to mention that, but we are in DIY.
  9. sixwheeledbeast
    You would have to enable quick arm to allow a single Part press to Arm Part 1. You don't have to scroll to the other part sets Code Part 2 Yes or 3 Yes would arm the other two sets.
  10. sixwheeledbeast
    Code, Part, Yes will be Part 1. It should show Part Armed Banner when only an Area is set, this is useful information to display; especially for monitored systems. I would look at using Local arming to only arm areas the keypad is within, this will save selecting the Areas to arm each time. You can add whatever you want if you have space for it, both expander slot wise and power consumption wise. As for the keypad situation it makes logical sense to put all equipment/devices in the area they are in.
  11. sixwheeledbeast
    Sounds like you need may need to use Areas and Part Arms in a different way. I don't know the layout of the house and keypads or what you need to arm. I would have House and Garage Areas, with a Part Set for Bedtime.
  12. sixwheeledbeast
    They are transistor driven outputs, the output will sink a maximum current of 100mA. So you can drive a device (relay) up to 100mA current between 12v and your output. If you need more current the panel outputs are 500mA whereas the Digi are 100mA
  13. sixwheeledbeast
    You must have an older stock of the ComIP (and therefore manual) as the Use Com Port option was only introduced in latter firmware. Part Arm banner will indicate that the system is part set so maybe you still have an issue if you are definitely full setting.
  14. sixwheeledbeast
    Just turn the volume pot down?
  15. sixwheeledbeast
    Set as Bell SAB would be best yes.
  16. sixwheeledbeast
    You MUST default the panel when moving between major versions of firmware. You can restore it if you took a backup before flashing. The current panel config is damaged so do NOT take a backup now to replace your old one. If in doubt default and start again.
  17. sixwheeledbeast
    Pyronix will be the easiest to install DIY I imagine.
  18. sixwheeledbeast
    I certainly wouldn't be installing a panel without a keypad. If your router or inet is down how do you switch it off/on. Yes it's theoretically possible I suppose, but certainly not worth considering. I am sure you will find that Texecom wouldn't recommend that either, considering they recommend you use the keypad to setup the COMWifi in the first place. COMWifi units do what they say on the box, there not perfect but I prefer the COM-IP if I had to.
  19. sixwheeledbeast
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252462850129 Seems to fit your description? Bargain Price
  20. sixwheeledbeast
    So logical first thing to do is check if the issue is the device, wiring or programming and work from there. Jumper is Latch or Non-latch
  21. sixwheeledbeast
    Well I have no idea then, I have never had any issues from following the manual for the first few and must have done 50 odd now. Yes there's lots of menus to go through as options are all over the place, they have been added to the existing menu structure which is why it makes more sense to regular Texecom installers The information does change depending on what ancillary kit you fit, if you always fit the same kit it would be sensible to have a profile to dump on the panel. I don't see any reason why you can't use Wintex. The manual advises to use the keypad, possibly to avoid any misconfiguration? Possibly. I think they hope both will clear up post V4
  22. sixwheeledbeast
    Opinion? Surely tests are definitive? In an industry of self certification do we think the manufacturer specs are best to compare the loudness? AG6 110dB@1m Ody Single Piezo 109dB@1m CQR Multibox 115dB@1m Deltabell 104dB@1m These are likely to be peak values and consider the tone, frequency and mounting surface will make a difference to overall volume. Whatever flashing, glowing and noisy piece of plastic you put on the front of your building, it's likely to do it's job if wired correctly.
  23. sixwheeledbeast
    They will be different for different Grades if EN
  24. sixwheeledbeast
    I would say it's programmed for the incorrect wiring type myself. Are the sensors working have you blown a fuse, etc
  25. sixwheeledbeast
    Who is working?
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