Hello,

Bought a house with a working Scantronix 9100 system. That was in 2019. Today, I decided to open the main box and found the service paper record inside.

Serviced yearly from 1989 until 2014. 25 years and counting. I want to keep the system. I like '80.

 

Anyway - I am omitting ZONE 3 at the moment. It consists of 6 vipers. Since zone "3" is showing while arming I assume one of the vipers fails.

Without Zone 3 everything works just fine. 

 

I can use a multi meter, unscrew and connect a new Viper but I need to know which one is faulty ;) 

I don't know what is EOL, etc so please don't ask me that. Each of them is flashing red when knocked after couple seconds - this I have checked.

I also have a little switch under the main box that would reset flashing red leds on vipers.

 

I can visit them vipers by one and check with a multi meter but I would really appreciate a little help here as I have no clue which terminals I should measure.

Please help me if possible explaining what read on what pair of connectors would say a given viper is damaged. 

 

If you need any photos - just let me know and I will provide.

 

Thanks in advance.

Artur

 

 

 

 

 

When was the battery replaced last? There is no EOL resistors on this panel its double pole, tamper and circuit. I would start off metering the cables wired to Z3 removed from the PCB  if they are closed circuit then fit a link in Z3 and see if the fault is still there, it could be a fooked panel especially if the battery hasnt been touched since 2014

Are the shocks reset properly after activation?

Like sixwheeledbeast said hae the vipers been reset,are any of the vipers got a led lit on it, on the older panels theres normally a reset button try pressing it and trying to set 

Upload a pic of the panel and detector so we can which colours are being used

On 30/04/2021 at 22:18, The Arab said:

Like sixwheeledbeast said hae the vipers been reset,are any of the vipers got a led lit on it, on the older panels theres normally a reset button try pressing it and trying to set 

There is no reset button on the scanny  91  to reset the panel you enter the user code twice   and tbh these panels are bulletproof so its unlikely the panel is damaged (its actually one of my favourite panels because of thier reliability) However i would reccomend changing the 7Ah battery inside 

10 minutes ago, Imnotshankled said:

There is no reset button on the scanny  91  to reset the panel you enter the user code twice   and tbh these panels are bulletproof so its unlikely the panel is damaged (its actually one of my favourite panels because of thier reliability) However i would reccomend changing the 7Ah battery inside 

Seen plenty arcing and fire hazards lol

10 minutes ago, al-yeti said:

Seen plenty arcing and fire hazards lol

Look what your alarm done 

16 minutes ago, Imnotshankled said:

There is no reset button on the scanny  91  to reset the panel you enter the user code twice   and tbh these panels are bulletproof so its unlikely the panel is damaged (its actually one of my favourite panels because of thier reliability) However i would reccomend changing the 7Ah battery inside 

 

shock sensors have a 1st to latch,

 

in these primitive pre mobile phone days... alarm men used to drill a little hole in the cabinet & fit a push to break switch which removed power to the vipers making them reset....

 

I recommend getting a proper alarm co. to fit a proper alarm ?

 

37 minutes ago, MrHappy said:

I recommend getting a proper alarm co. to fit a proper alarm

Harsh but probably true

Unless however you like retro.

By convention, back in the "good" old days the alarm pair would have been blue and yellow and the tamper pair would have been green and white.

Go to the panel and see what coloured cores are connected to zone 3 alarm. trace those to the cable to see if the cable is 6 or 8 core. If 6 core then there is no reset line however a reset can sometimes be performed by dropping the power (positive) to the line of vipers.

To be honest, back then a resetting line for vipers was a bit of a rarity  unless actually specified by an external designer.

If the cable is 8 core then check which core is connected to the reset switch - often the orange core.

The advise above to put a link in the alarm circuit of the panel is very wise - this will prove the circuit itself. This will also give you the core colours. 

The vipers will be marked on the circuit board. However if not you can work out the connections. Red & black power (very rare to be anything else). The tamper switch is normally identified T- and T+ - it is quite possible to put a meter across and open and close the tamper which will identify the contacts. Only 4 connections left. The reset and latch are normally at the end of the connection bank. It is likely that one will be not connected and if there is a reset switch one will be connected and that is likely to be an odd colour (like the orange of the orange/brown pair.

Once you have worked out the connections of the viper and the colour code you will need to go to each device and find which is open circuit.

The final device in the line will have only one cable in while the others will have two cables in and cores will be jointed - unless that is any of the devices are starred back to a central junction.

I will have the connection "manual" for the viper - in the shed I will see if I can dig it out and send it to you. 

 

There are many variables to look at so it is a case of working through the various options until you can establish what is what.

 

New vipers are available (a honeywell product now) and are a like for like swap out

 

I hope that helps and does not complicate things too much.