oh the days of x vs k

K band , hands down . 

agreed anyone still using it? but the original dt700 wasn't quite right with it.

Honeywell iirc

 

Thanks chaps- is there a specific technique to adjust the MW range?

 

Also - does anyone know if the Texecom DT's come with resistors and also the resistor values required if not? (so i can get them ordered). Or will it be a simple case of a 2K2 across the alarm/tamper and a 4K7 across alarm/alarm terminated at the PIR, as seems to be the standard - each zone (one PIR per zone).

 

My main kit turned up yesterday and included an alarm box and some prox tags too, quite impressed considering they weren't advertised. Had a sneaky hour read through the installation (can only find the Premier Elite 24 guide online as opposed to the 24-W) and quick reference guide (included) - oh my life! This is going to be muchos fun programming  quite looking forward to the challenge once I've got it all hard wired in.

Edited November 1, 20169 yr by 1animal1

The MW usually has a pot to adjust it's easy identifiable. Turn the MW right off and then slowly adjust back on until it covers where you need it.

Thanks Norman - so just a short trial and error walk exercise...sounds easy enough. 

Pay attention to the lights on the detector when walk testing, they will tell you if it's PIR or MW that is activating.

Thanks Norman - gather this will become clear on the PIR instruction leaflet? 

 

I've just ordered a Texecom premier elite DT for this job - after debating over the specs of 4 different DT PIR's on their site...how do you guys choose? pick a favourite and stick with it??

Follow the instructions in the box for setup.

You should have enough resistors and jumpers in the kit boxes for your installation.