james.wilson

As Al says it should be looked after like you would a car, when was it last serviced? But is it the entry exit tones that have stopped working?

Qfa Also the output maybe open without a pull up or down it won't show much logic wise

id expect it to read a difference with a meter, unless the output is broken. If you cant read it with a dvm then a t relay wont help

i would think you would need a t-relay but yes unless you have overloaded it already

Agreed looks like the sounder is in supervision failure

To a point wire is wire but unless your running the lighting in it I'm a little lost?

Running perpendicular won't be an issue, as noted you need seperation too. But I don't see that in the pic? Would it not of been easier and better to be under the floor above?

What part of the UK are you based?

I rate the elmdene g3 contacts but do use the lst not the little ones

It will happen

There is no method to do 'variations' for intruder, there should be though. There was a lot of devices that were grade 3 dropped to grade 2 when the rear tamper rules changed

Technically you need to record the resistance of the circuit wiring. If eol that means without resistors etc and definitely not from the uncalibrated panel. Just as you need to do 70 on the motorway

As above if you use a grade 1 component on a grade 3 system the whole system becomes grade 1

Imo it should be a full default, God knows what your inheriting without

Not relevant to any member that has left

if this 0.25A fuse on the board id suggest its the wrong size

Yes you need to risk assess the site regarding what grade system the site needs, but many people just go 'grade 2 that will do' Grade 2 is cheaper than grade 3

bear in mind the honeywell galaxy g2 is a grade 2 (std wise) part honeywell optima gen4 is grade 1 (in fact it may be 4737 id have to look) honeywell dimension is Grade 3 Flex is both G2 and G3 depending on model and config

why what must be as cheap as possible?

Agree with above, plus #9 on some versions didn't actually fire the bell outputs. Test it properly and confirm

The siren will work but as a minimum you need to give it hold off and then a trigger. Why are you wiring it off the comm module not the panel? Or are you trying to connect a proper sounder to p.o.s. EBay thing?

working great vs how things should work are completely different. What you mean is you thought it worked but in reality it didnt worst case you thought it did and relied on it and it didnt please all that read this use a system but know its limits, if you need to know stuff dont use a free one

Great whats the reading?

im not suprised your lucky you didnt damage something. ie the sliding door controller they arnt cheap You need to check whats on those black wires when, i dont have the manual in my hand. Id assume they are designed to go to a lock release not a door controller for a sliding door

what have you connected this to?