datadiffusion

Wrong, always be asking questions.

Too true

Its Defender tat AFAIK I ripped one out last year, metal case made of bean tins I think, try cpc.co.uk op

He can't be that bad

Early paxton standalone?

5 is as good as it gets whilst still avoiding the rads... 3 and 4 for me much of a muchness, if 3 is a little bit further from the rad, that's possibly better. The microwave beam can go through walls - but that's why it's adjustable to prevent that when it's installed.

Hi, welcome to the best fun you'll ever have with a keyboard.

Hi Karen, and welcome to the best place to hang out when everywhere else is shut, your friends are all on holiday, and the better forums are down.

Sort of suggests it's not set up right if you can't trust it at night without being nobbled. Not saying this is your fault but feels like sticky plaster fix.

Because...? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPItNLXT_pw

Oh a bit like the Risco Bus 'universal adaptor'?

It's all the blarney they eat

Didn't know that...

...is it TSI you're lookin' for...?

As far as I know the replacement you've already suggested is the best new one; no other manufacturer produces new kit supporting iD AFAIK

Where it still is - in the hands of the Chinese State!

http://en.uniview.com/ From the Nairobi Railway Authority to the Watersplash! Romanian theme park, they've protected them all!

Yep, these are the ones we used before we switched to Texe when I worked for the firm. I often fit a base sounder (many work at 9-30vdc etc... as we know) below each Texe smoke anyway.

Those bloody nova Leds!! Had a customer complain last year because the new bellbox leds (elmdene quartz) weren't a patch on the otherwise rotten old nova I took down!

Don't really do fire, have one site which is an HMO but not the usual dump (off site staff accommodation for an upmarket restaurant, house must be worth £600k+) one very small industrial unit, and our own place, all in Twinflex and don't intend to add any more.

He doesn't want to be your friend Al

Indeed but in a similar manner to UK exemptions for intruder standby time, when it was a new build / refurb / loft extension prompted job we told BC that any low batteries would be notified by the alarm panel in plain English and that a maint contract existed for at least the first 12 months they were happy to sign off... and noted as a variation. Whilst I've only used them about 3 times, I think Fike are excellent, guessing you've had issues?

When we used to fit 12V smokes & heats on Gardtec 816s and the like, we used these resistor packs from Elmdene I think (or was it Dantech?) which avoided messing about, they worked out about 20p in bulk IIRC. We used to fit quite a lot though.

We've got a Twinflex going into the cottage + annexe, but then again I'm a bit mental...

If you have the engineer code then yes it's easy to program out the troublesome zone; but unfortunately we can't give out engineer manuals here. If you struggle to find one elsewhere (you won't) then linking it out with a wire would work. However, as you say whilst it's highly likely the loose wire was the cause, it's not a definite just yet. If you can get Engineer access, what would be better would be putting the zone on 'soak' test whilst away. If it triggers, you won't get an alarm, but it will let you know when you unset. In that way a week or sos holiday would be an ideal time to soak test.