sixwheeledbeast

Alarms don't just least 10 years with no maintenance they really need more regular service than that, normally annually. I would say you have been lucky not to have an issue with it. Inside most likely the battery has gone faulty (life expectancy 4 years), it may have damaged the changing circuit. Premia is a pretty old panel now long since discontinued I recall it being a pretty cheap domestic panel at the time. So it's likely many will recommend an upgrade re-using the wiring. You should contact some local companies and ask about pricing for a service and what they include in that price. Many companies would also prefer to use there own stock (the battery) as they wouldn't be willing to warranty an item you purchased. Feel free to browse our installers forum http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/forum/268-uk-security-installers-by-regional-police-force/ the NSI https://www.nsi.org.uk/ and SSAIB https://ssaib.org if you cannot contact the original installer or have anyone recommended to you.

I just want to also point out that a Grade 2 system doesn't mean the signalling is Grade 2. I wouldn't be happy with an upto 25 hour response time upon a failure. We are not certain what type of signalling this unknown Dualcom product is or anything about this GPRS device its being compared against, hence my questions above. Not having all the information it's not fair for anyone here to make a decision like that, we can advise on the type of kit etc but only you will know the one that suits you and your property.

Companies will use there preferred kit and opinions will vary on that kit, so it's not that clear. It is true that some maybe better than others but really here you are buying a service. You could have the "best gear" installed by an untrained engineer and it will likely perform poorly. I assume you are looking at wireless systems if you have been quoted for a Powermaster. The important thing to find out here is the how all the wireless equipment talks to the controls, "two-way" and "mesh" being preferred over "one-way". When comparing signalling, the number and type of paths plus the grade is something to ask about. Also did you ask about who owns the kit, warranty and what is included in the ongoing charges? Many properties in the UK don't have signalling or police response but it would be down to the risk and cost, a signalling system would provide more protection for your property but the cost would be higher. Sounds like you have spoken to the insurance, have you clarified with them what you need too? Hopefully some of these questions will help you come to a conclusion but feel free to post any other queries.

I see no issue with having perimeter shocks in a separate group only generating an unconfirmed. Some of the multi contact shock devices use the same zone so wouldn't be able to confirm. I would think it's more the case of knowing if the door is closed on setting and if the door is opened without vibration.

Inertias normally have an analyser before connecting to the system. Texecom have a zone response option for zones, I have seen used with inertias in the past. No idea if that's an option that would work for you or on your preferred controls.

You can't flash a powered down panel. There are certain caveats on some versions of firmware but it's similar rules as flashing/updating any device firmware. If major version change you will need to default. Sounders may sound for a second or so when switching between Prog and Run.

With the leads in the same position and battery connected switch the mains off, monitor for 15 minutes or more and then the same with the mains back on. The float charge will drop quickly then voltage will drop slowly. When the mains is reapplied it should increase steady to the value of your initial readings in a similar amount of time. Not an accurate current reading but will show if the panel is charging the battery As for a replacement and your cabling, an expander module could be used in the loft and the controls moved or alternatively wireless or hybrid somehow. Lots of options and solutions available.

Voltage checks would be done parallel to the circuit and current checks would be done in series with the circuit. You MUST have your meter leads plugged in the correct ports for both tests or you will blow either the meter or the panel. The 19Vac is the transformer voltage to the control panel not the system voltage which should be a stable DC voltage measured from the control panel. You may simply have bought a cheap battery and it's failed however, panels that consume batteries quickly normally have a problem. A simple step would be to have your meter on DC Voltage (red lead in V), and test in parallel (so Red-Red, Blk-Blk) the voltage across the battery leads with and without the battery. If the above makes no sense or you don't feel competent, its time to call in an engineer. There are mains voltages in there remember. FWIW I wouldn't expect to use a scope to diagnose that kind of component fault. If its a component it would likely be in the power supply circuit, so maybe voltage regulator most likely an LM317. Even if replaced the rest of the components are of a similar age so not worth the effort IMO.

There are no fuses on the old Scanny boards and it wouldn't be a fuse causing that type of fault. It's unlikely anyone would repair something down to component level, anyone up to that task would probably have an idea where to start. Did you check the charging current, system and battery voltages with a meter?

It's possible the system is failing and not charging the battery correctly. You would need to check this with a multimeter, this would normally be done as part of a service and before fitting a new battery.

What type of signalling and settings? Do you have Enable Digi checked On?

I don't know the panel well but I would agree that you should only be able to change a master code and not delete it. I can only suggest the code has been changed or defaulted by accident while you where in the menu. Maybe while you where escaping the menus? Incorrect code entry will create a tamper event if you keep trying. If you don't know the code the only suggestion is to get your company out to reprogram it for you.

Every detector will be different, generally 360's are fitted in the centre of the room but every site is different too. Reading the detectors documentation and testing should cover everything. Take careful note with coverage over mounting height. Keep in mind movement perpendicular to the detection pattern offers better detection.

Time to call the installer for a service.

Depends on the room. Corner mounted sensors are designed to cover a 90 degree area over it's detection pattern, which ideally covers across the entry points. Positioned correctly corner mounted has better coverage IMO but there is no reason 360's couldn't be suitable. The only time I recall using a 360 on a domestic was in a garage with no wall space anywhere.

Stone chip spray paint on the cables can deter mice from nibbling. Rats are a different matter they'll chew through pretty much anything if they want to.

You need to contact the installer that fitted the system, or alternatively get an installer that fits Texecom.

Have it agreed that the customer is to provide unswitched unindicated FCU with 3A fuse, if it's not there come installation date provide a plug top and document as a temporary measure.

So it's most likely a digital watermark then, the software will put the timestamp next to the image for you.

I am thinking like James this would be a file format option. I don't remember an overlay option on any Samsung DVR I have worked on, it would seem pointless to have an option to disable it

Installation manuals are provided via our Downloads section which is accessible to registered trade members only.

You never know. Where there's muck...

Not really just shares in OpenTAP will increase, may even cause more gateways to appear.

Been looming for a little while now. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-39868449 https://www.paging.vodafone.net/

Ah, that type has different modules for the resistor values, I don't believe there is a DP board option as it's aimed as a Grade 3 product. If you decide to use it best to wire your Menvier for EOL, switch DIP 1 on to and a link into set to disable AM. Even then detector has a possibility of throwing a 4K4 with a "detector fault", not sure what a Menvier would do with that resistance (either nothing or alarm condition if on threshold). Suppose it depends which panel