sixwheeledbeast

You can't omit entry zones, that would defeat the point of them.

The SMPS will be likely be blown like above. You can't test more than in and out unless you open and they are not designed to be user serviceable. You could try power cycling everything and a new battery but most likely you need a new one.

If you don't turn over loads of them to pick out the bad explody ones. Then look for UL listed then you know they meet a safe standard.

That's why they use so much leccy...

Agreed they do fail with age and it is old one-way stuff, so weak security for low risk. Still would expect battery fault to clear at least for a week or so with a faulty device.

Systems need servicing, batteries don't last forever. I would replace all the device batteries if it's been that long, even if only one is showing. Do you know what device Z02 is, sensors are CR123.

Internet and social media blow everything out of proportion, mainstream news is following suit it gets more clicks and revenue. It's twisting the way the majority of the public interact in society IMO. Opinions are now polarising and not collaborative, no one person has the right answer to everything... The more people you listen to, the broader your picture becomes. People don't listen and often only seek out confirmation of their bias.

Sounds about right

It may seem like a different country to you but we still except UK sterling up here. Give someone in Leeds Roubles for some veg you'll get yed kicked in...

I fail to see how to come to that conclusion or why I would call a locksmith to an alarm system? To the OP, as much as you have started again "at both ends" how would you know there isn't a junction box or connection somewhere in the middle that the colours change? Have you tested all this wiring with a multimeter? EOL is a good start to minimise the connections/wires required but it's not fully clear what exactly you need help with, which may be indicated by the lack of contributions on the topic.

Don't fit ADE but I would have a good read through the manual, something will be incorrectly programmed somewhere.

It sounds like programming issue. Can you trigger the issue yourself or is the customer setting it wrong? Is the wrong part set programmed, are the zones correct, these are the things I'd be looking for.

I'd prefer to live on pizza, chips and curry.

I feel they are mostly thought of as an electrical installation where it may need a rewire at some distant point in time, but it isn't the components are electronic and far from basic like outlets and switches. How many other electronic things around the house last for decades...

Can you expand on the fault a bit more? Does it activate while unset? What is shown when it goes off? When was it last serviced? How often and for how long has this been happening?

Cover them in wallpaper paste no tampering necessary, hence why walk test should be done. Agreed tho, tamper switches are day mode detection, you would hope the system was already activated if set.

A proper system is all down to it's design. A tamper is just a first line of defeat detection. If you were to rip all the inners out of the control panel the external sounder would be triggered from it's own battery; in a correctly designed fully operational system. This is why it's important to have a system serviced regular, if a component fails and you don't pick it up it maybe relatively easy to defeat the system.

You'd have to be able to buy one first... I agree it's over simplified to say a DT will have less false alarms than a PIR. You need to know how they work and fit to the environment. But experienced people in the trade understand this.

Easiest would be swapping the circuits in the panel I suppose. That's if everything else is programmed correctly.

Level crossing telephones with no local power was what I found? Called Type 6 in US as they are 6 inch high.

40Ah alkaline cells. I suppose these are still in use for other applications for them to still be in manufacturer, even if it is very low quantity.

It's probably not faulty. Photo of both ends probably best way to solve.

Tamper will cause the strobe to flash?

Loops in fixy band and pull everything through after seems easier? Use the coated band so you don't damage the outer.

I don't work on Galaxy much so can't remember if it's +ve or -ve up, either way worth checking and you shouldn't loose data. Maybe not from the manufacturer but had new cells come with thin transparent plastic warning stickers that you easily wouldn't notice and/or covered in bitter alice which can have high resistance spots if you don't clean the contact area. Worse thing about the bitter alice stuff is it can be an intermittent issue but tests fine with meter as the probes are sharp.