PeterJames

Your first statement worries me, get a pro in

As Alyeti says it could be any number of things, what model panel do you have and what type of prox fob genuine or compatible? Scanny wont work with any 125khz fob the it needs to be Manchester Format which are seldom found on the Chinese compatibles

Sorry as we have no way of vetting people that come here therefore, we are unable to provide engineering manuals for panels, for all we know you could be someone looking to compromise a security system.

I think we called them and asked for a calibrated meter pay a bit extra and the cert comes with it

Right light bulb it is then!

Apparently the solo stuff fits the pole

found a cheaper smoke tester, but I have loads of them https://www.firedetectionshop.co.uk/p/detectahead-dh1and-detectapole-dp1bundle/

No Climb seem to have the market for Fire test equipment. I suppose in their shoes I would do the same. I would think it is a small market so nobody is keen to take them on with their own alternative. There are Chinese alternatives but they are not closely similar. I think I will have to put service charges up on Fire and buy more kit

Ive seen those ones theyre even more expensive and they only take little smoke test canisters. Many people on FB are complaining that they are more expensive o run as well as more expensive to buy

The Chinese one looks a bit pants , seems to use a filament bulb

No you cannot program the panel without he engineer code

Ive been looking on Alibaba to see if there is a Chinese copy, interestingly they have one made from a lightbulb in big cup thing. I assume that the bulb gets hot and sets off the heat. Im thinking I could just replace the element in mine with a bulb holder and bulb, If I can fix the original I may give this a go and see if it works

Ask him both questions please, I dont mind paying

Hi and welcome, you would need the engineers code in order to change anything that isnt already set up on that panel. Have you tested to see if part set has not already been set up?

Can I send him two to fix? LOL Seriously how do you get the middle bit with the fan and heater element out?

theyre still incredibly expensive

Anyone successfully repaired one or got one apart at all. I have two now keep blowing fuses I removed the MOVs onne to see if it was those but it still blew fuses theyre £600.00 a time if there is a known fix than its a big saving

You could just set the SSID and password the same as your old router, or call your installer

some

Agreed, the type of detectors that were around when the Rascal was produced would be prone to sunspots with no white light filter. The Bellbox may also be a problem on hot days polycarb was much thinner and expands when it gets hot causing tampers faults. If the panel powered up okay on mains first I would say the battery although it may be showing the correct voltage is probably fecked (Technical term for no good)as its drawing more current than the PSU can supply. Assuming that the wiring was installed well, that would be the only thing I would look to be saving from your system. If not, well.... wireless systems are pretty good nowadays.

Try recycling the power without connecting the battery

something like this but we can buy it with a calibration cert Ill ask on Monday what the part number is https://cpc.farnell.com/tenma/72-13430/dmm-handheld-auto-manual-2000/dp/IN08405?st=calibrated digital multimeter

£40 for a meter and twenty minutes per eng meter versus 9x £30.00 plus P&P

Ours is ACT in a big case, it wouldnt be hard to make something, but it wouldnt make the job any easier.

Its cheaper to buy a new calibrated meter than pay the postage to and from for your meter, before you have even paid for it to be calibrated. Farnell sell a calibrated meter with cert for around £40.00. TBF calibration is a PITA you have to get all the meters in to check them all, we give out a loan meter while the engineers is being calibrated and trying to organise getting them swapped around is like hearding squirrels sometimes. You have to get the loan back before you can do the next meter. To calibrate you need something to check current, resistance, voltage, ect, against a known calibrated meter. There is no other easy way to check calibration to my knowledge you cant just put it on a machine that does all that for you, you have to change the settings on the meter for starters. + or- 10% is acceptable