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Wow, congratulations you two.

- VID_20251117_103431903.mp4

They were designed so if they were drilled, once the drill bit shorted the two covers it caused a tamper alarm. I got called out to a bank one horrible winters night to a tamper fault on the bell box which you could hardly see because of the snow. I asked the assistant manager if he hand a sweeping brush. He thought i was going to clear the snow on the path for my ladders. Should have seen his face when i twatted the delta bell with the brush loosening all the snow that had blown in the vent causing high resistance.

Part finished new install- &

invert your l bracket

So just wanted to update and wrap up this. Thanks to all the help and pointers, I updated the wiring as explained above, this afternoon, and all is working fine. No unexpected issues and alarm appears to be working just fine. Thank you all! nate

https://www.mtecc.co.uk/products/MFLEX-tm-CLASSIC-BLUE-TAG-p445270276

Allot has changed since your release.... Eagle is same tho, I think...

You are not reading what he typed correctly he typed "with the panel and sensors pulling 0.55 A" Now there was no mention of mA so 0.55A no matter how you try to dress that up is slightly over half an amp. He may have made a mistake but either way what he typed is 0.55A not 0.055A which would be 55mA

Thats half an amp in my book

pizeo's vibrate, thrips / thunder bugs or whatever climb inside stuff & don;t vibrate no more...

I also do that and no i cannot. There is a mod to connect to the cloud service but polling is slow as its pulling from the cloud. I use output modules and an esp32 to get the events from my hkc 10270. I have wifi gsm on the app (and a dualcom)

What setup will any of this matter? Many systems are just not that critical, even some sites which require feeds for the home office are using the existing networks they don't care that much either as long as there's a constanish feed

Seperate physical network, occasionally vlan it Or think of how they do it in hull and get it to work any old how lol

Separate network and unmanaged switches. Consider fibre for backbone. You're removing variables that way. Sharing the sites network will only mean liaising with IT departments and intermittent issues you have no control over. Fine, if your site IT on a job creation scheme not so good for us.

What you selling is the question?

Don;t worry it soon wears off Hello & Welcome

I would use the existing wiring as a base for a hybrid system myself. Too many times have I seen old systems ripped out and junk replacing it. Yes some of the tatty wiring maybe removed but if the system was in good order at some point it may reduce installation or service costs to reuse some of it. For the more direct questions, yes the alarm is likely to sound if you tamper with it. There is no guarantee that any service/engineer modes would work so expect it to rattle your ears. They're designed to be hard to disable and bring attention to the fact someone is tampering with it, if installed and serviced correctly.

This isnt facebook!

Of course..... Lol

Meth

I definitely don't do FCU's So I did not wait ages for the correct Hager MCB to arrive via courier I did not take a take a colleague with me to take the front off a BFO hager 3 phase distribution board which might have been 5ft tall So I do not experience the kick in the teeth to find whilst the left hand side of the board had all the correct MCB's the the right hand side was arranged with a matching set of wrong breakers with the on /off label stuck on the other way Left hand side on - points to the bus-bar in the middle of the board whilst the right side points away from the bus bar I did not do this on Thursday so are not sat at home on Friday night still really pissed off about it...

If you have wifi version then its a simple case of switching on the sim, if you dont have either then its a case of plugging in a module. Im probably the only NSI gold company here that covers South London Al-Yeti covers South London but he is not accredited

You look after one!

Grade of system is grade 1 lowest grade 4 highest Also a 4g router will fail in a mains failure leaving you with no comms

Im not a fan of either but I hear less people complaining about the Texecom app going down on the FB forums

The maint money keeps an alarm co. in business Whats the maint cost £100+vat a year ? Everything from a co. will be grade 2 You'll only get a Grade 3 wired alarm. Anything more than an app with need maint + mon Pyronx app has annual fee, which is why its better than the other 2 I use. A co. may not wish to provide an app with no maint fee

You mean size and standby time or the diagnostics?

The classics can't do silent part set. Would need a hi lo sounder with a volume adjustment or upgraded panel. I assuming not rf

OP it looks like you had the tamper disabled or linked out on your SAB. Al is showing what needs to be done to rectify it. I also assume it was linked out for a reason. Either though lack of knowledge or because of an issue they didnt want to tell you about. If the issue remains then wiring it correctly will give you a fault that previously looked ok as you had no fault. You still did it was just bypassed

But put the wire running between 0v and tmpf in the bell

I can sell them as trade depending on quantities cheapest would be £1.00 ea

I'd assume the Eaton tags to be more robust case wise than random ebay ones...

I have various email servers that arnt free. but willing to let active trade members use em

Lidl bakery useful. Aldi don't like at all.

Ankle tag & 7too7 curfew ? is it listed in the grey "workshop" manual, as the product is much older than pdf files ?

One day I'm going to sell up & get a proper job on the tools. I reckon I could walk into just about anywhere working with just about anything (fire/security) & be the equal of anyone already working there ?

It does both. Allowing walk through for Full set and switching to entry for Part sets.

As JW stated the charging rate is in the standard. Larger premier panels have a charging rate selection jumper so you can adjust the rate depending on the battery and make sure it conforms.

So I'm thinking this low measurement could be due to voltage drop on the connecting leads (which could amount to a few tenths of a volt at that current). The panel will only measure voltage at the board during a load test.. Next step is to check voltage at the actual terminals of the battery.

Most likely because you are activating the devices just before or during the setting procedure. Wireless devices will go to sleep for a short period after activation to conserve battery life. If you try triggering a device that has not activated recently you should find the system will respond almost immediately.

When you completely down-power It remembers the codes zone settings ect in the NVM. But it wont keep the clock going while its down powered, that will default to watchdog

It puts more load on the psu it pulls more current than the psu is designed to provide, and eventually burns out the charging circuit

If its only when fully zoomed out it's probably seeing the edge of the lens. Buy I larger format lens is another option

As above But battery can sometimes prematurely die , might be example in a loft where I seen them die quicker , or sometimes boiler room and so on Yes load test , try it But you might be running all wireless aswell?

Hi there. We recently moved into a house (new to us) which has an Intellisense alarm keypad, a (as far as I can see) Securit 800L / ST800L+ system and a ‘box’ on the outside wall of the house. There are various sensors dotted around the house which all seem to be live, flashing red when movement is detected. There is also a mains-powered fire alarm detection system which may or may not be linked…... However, there do not appear to be any lights lit on the keypad (which suggests it’s not powered up), and when we asked the previous owners they said they never had a code, and never used the alarm. I tried telephoning the number on the exterior box, but the number is no longer in service. Also none of the numbers for C&K Systems work, nor does their website or e-mail address, so I assume they're no longer with us. Obviously we’re not keen to ‘fiddle’ with anything, and so far a manual ‘override’ of previous settings seems to be quite hard to find. We’re not after a system which alerts the police necessarily, but simply one where we can set it, and if someone breaks in will sound an alarm. Is this likely to be an expensive ‘fix’, or is 'someone' able to give me some guidance so I can get it working myself, please? I'd prefer to understand what system I have, do a full 'back to factory' reset myself, and start from ground zero. Pic of keypad attached for info.

Been given 2 of these, both new but tatty boxes Before I consider them as WEEE I thought I'd document them for the nerds here. Didn't find much info on them from searching.

You'll take it all apart and it will likely (if working correctly) make noise until you have finished or until the noise pollution timer kicks in. There is no magic disable button or menu that makes it easy to disable, back doors like that could be exploited.