Leaderboard

Agreed, we were quite conservative with the www with our two kids, both of them were avid readers and not really into gaming etc. No phones until they were at high school, James had an ipod thing but even that was closely monitored by us. Both were taught about the obvious dangers of the www. I remember looking thorough Jamess search history and he'd been searching for boobs. He was about 12 at the time and was mortified when I spoke to him about it lol. If it was up to me I'd also restrict under 16s and think it's a cesspit for bullying, at least when I went to school the bullying stopped at 3pm.

Not wishing to get into the debate but 'Proper' gear needs to comply with the product standard (not the install) and part of that is testing the battery OK Most if not all panel will dip the supply and measure the voltage as a means to do this check. ie also all the 12v peripherals should be able (if compliant) to handle this ripple voltage. I dont know texecom gear well or at all and not sure if the network errors are a log tool or just log 'noise'. Either way it shouldnt cause a problem in normal operation. If it is causing a problem (other than a disganostic log) then something is wrong.

pizeo's vibrate, thrips / thunder bugs or whatever climb inside stuff & don;t vibrate no more...

So you've proven the wiring and that it's likely the programming... Yes, you should always default them from new.

This is a long shot , but is this possible?

demonic possession, contact your local priest ? Or the sensitivity on the keypad it too high, calibrate / adjust or replace ??

Here's a crazy idea.... why not power down your knacked alarm ?

If you don't want it then get it killed. If you do want it then find someone to. We have a boat load of people and pyronix are to blame for this who do want a security system but spend more at Costa.

nonce ban ? https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/news/2022/04/06/TELEMMGLPICT000058725877_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqhZJ9vnP3TZj6dX4F0Tnhrlt1EhdK4aiwcWMQPYeW9P0.jpeg?imwidth=680 they'd laugh out loud....

I wouldn't of thought a bulb unless halogen would get hot enough quixh enough

id say your puttin gthe magnet to the wrong side of the contact and you have a grade 3 door contact

Sorry I disagree- I've never had any reason to use an oscilloscope on an intruder alarm nor do I need a £500+ multi meter (it would only get lost or broken out in alarm land) Aged 17 or so I knew something like a 9600 required a power supply to run all 16 zones & multiple keypads & speakers Who would have guessed more than 30 years later I'd still be having conversations with people who don't understand the basics principles, Suitable current in day & alarm, suitable voltage at each device when running off the battery, if you've not got this you'll have problems Your alarm appear to have lots of problems I've got lots of alarms with very few problems, its funny old world isn't it ?

Well you came asking for help and your disregarding what you are told by people that work with this stuff every day. I have told you how to rule this out and some things to check, there are further things that need ruling out but it's not normal. To expand on MrH above, as a rule of thumb I would expect each power supply to have <~500mA quiescent per 7Ah battery to conform to BS EN; this is aside to your issue.

Thats half an amp in my book

cqr used to have clear plastic & you could see them inside I use to find them inside cables upto 1m or so, I reckon they crawled in, & each time one crawled in behind the they;d move up more ? battery in sounder will last 2yrs or 20 yrs....

just snip them individually that way you will know what colour goes where when you put it back/replace it. No need to down power completely just be aware the alarm will tamper

A D B B C T D A S 49

And not cut the spares off ......

the nice rf module would be plugged in here. As i should it isnt so im assuming your not use nice rf remotes

Yuasa rate NP batteries as 5 year service life for use within alarm systems, other manufacturers maybe different. From experience you could get 10 years from a Yuasa one but it's best to swap before it's deteriorating.

Fish fingers with toy

Did you factory default the panel on initial power up?

This should always been changed leaving anything with default codes is a huge risk on a system designed to be secure. All systems need to be serviced or they will eventually fail, usually at 2am etc

Boom you got this...

Seems we all do/did them differently... Similar to 6 Under the washer like JW and only half round with the sheath left on but longer than the cores if that makes sense.

When the PSU is off there is no AC present the battery is DC it probably is coming from the PSU im not doubting it but my bet is that all of them give off AC noise

Ive just checked the ac noise on our demo panel in the training room and thats 32v, that panel hasnt seen much action at all, mostly used for testing different programming scenarios. It has a couple of wired contacts and a wired detector the old style keypad a GSM/Wifi card and some wireless stuff on it. I am wondering if its a trait of the switch mode PSU

I suppose I'd test it by running it on a lead to another location not fixed to the wall

What's opposite it or near it It's time for pictures , don't worry if install is dodgy , so are mine But your saying when no one is near it right , from a distance

Exorcizo te, creatura salis, per Deum vivum, per Deum verum, per Deum sanctum, per Deum

Not seen it myself but most keypad are set to always on. The close to wake is an rf keypad thing but allows you to have wired and rf kehpads seem similar. I'd say you have a faulty one

You can have the lights on all the time, or on proximity. I have an RKP on my landing I would have noticed if it kept illuminating. I wouldnt know if my other RKP's illuminated intermittently as the only time I go to them is when im coming or going .

They just want to throw it in and charge extra for the service and batteries. It's sad some of the industry has been going that way... Would be a nice job to wire with the boards up already. Wireless does have it's place but I'd always wire as much as I can. Keypads and Bells are always wired on my systems even if much of the detection is not. Texecom isn't as open to DIY as it was, especially on the Premier stuff. Veritas is a DIY only product now I'd say tho. I would wire a single 8 core to everything, but a single 6 core to everything would likely be fine. I just like having spare pairs for the future. Then see if you can find a company that will use your wiring.

Bell on battery , but I am feeling nervous already

Although bell can be reconnected within a min or two of you skilled enough I would have let the old panel hand some how cut the plastic or something got the new back plates in and powered up may odd disconnect but it would have been quick 15min ringing you letting the kettle boil

This is the reason you use proper gear. Diy stuff can be disabled but what would you prefer an off switch? Or worse an off code. You have found out that compliant equipment does as it says.

if you remove the mains to the panel does this still occur. This will show if the 'noise' is coming in via the mains supply or another way

Hi Sixwheeledbeast, Many thanks for the advice. I am more comfortable now I can forget the Scantronic option. I do not intend to try a DIY installation. I do intend to have the cabling in place myself. I took your advice that there is no such thing as cannot. Rather than trying to use the original cables for the three daisy chained sensors, I looked at covering two of the rooms from alternative accessable points. By coming from the loft I can cut through the first floor in cuboards to lay two new sensor positons, leaving just one of the three sensors on the original 6 core. The issue with my semi engineering brickwork was not how to break through them, that's already done. The issue is they seem to be Wi-Fi unfriendly. Sky mesh was a disaster for me. I feel more comfortable now that I can install a wired system with options to Wi-Fi extend if the need arises. Thank you once again.

For work in London you don't really need to provide much more information than say "Battersea" to see if a local provider is willing to offer a price for the job. Its unlikely we have an active poster that supports the location & your preferred manufacturer but a member may be able to provide a recommendation to co. which will look after you. I'm form he North of England & do some commercial work in London, after travel & expenses I think I earn the same money as working at home.... I only do it for the turn over & the look of horror when I say please & thank you to bus drivers & good morning sir to traffic wardens..... ect

This was the road I was heading down as it clearly shows this in the RF RIO manual but without a meaningful manual on the RF Portal I can't get a definite answer! I suspect it is because they are enrolled in a different way?

Battery charging voltage on a non intelligent panel (which I assume this is) should be 13.69 - 13.75 v assuming normal ambient temp. Check charge current and charge voltage on load. Best way to test this is with a partially discharged battery and again when fully charged. I'd be concerned if load reading was below 13v and below 13.5 ish when fully charged An intelligent charge panel will ramp up voltage depending on charge state so harder to test

Next you will say they self certification there equipment

powermax as in the really old one or powermaster?

Congratulations on being our latest alarm expert & welcome to the moderation team....

Every possible measurement needed to commission and diagnose an intruder alarm can be done with multimeter If you have property large enough to need 5 expanders & lots of expensive test equipment I would assume some with your qualifications & talent could earn more more doing your own job & pay a proper alarm co. to provide a working complaint system rather faff around wasting time & money doing it poorly.

That's nice... did you read the installation book where it states the size of the psu & the current drawn by each texecom device ? You have the main board, 5 expanders, 5 speakers & a keypad I also assume you have an external bell(s) & powered detection All powered by the panel....

SUNTHORNES!! (made in Aldershot I think) Yes, used to service loads of them in the late 80's and 90's. I remember the BELL TEST button, which was really just a Normally Closed button that removed the power to the external sounder! No bell timer, had to fit a seperate PCB inside panel to time the bell to 20 minutes. The cybertone sounder drilled into the front of the panel which gave you three tones. A continuous whine when you tried to set the system with a zone in fault, a wheeee-wheeee-wheeee for setting and unsetting and a lower faster tone for alarm. You couldn't set any of the zones (with exception of Exit/Entry zone) as "entry route", instead we fitted relays inside the panel which was connected into the E/E sounder to short out the relevant zones during Entry and Exit time. The zone cards, each of which had a Green LED for "ON" (not isolated), Yellow for "Zone in alarm" and Red as a memory after an alarm activation. The really old ones,the isolate button on the front panel used to toggle the Green LED off and on, but it was updated so that the Green LED would come back on when the keyswitch was turned back to off. On the front was a keyswitch and a large piece of darkened plastic where you could see the LEDs of all the zone cards. There was also an expansion board where you could fit loads of zone boards and have up to about 30 zones. There was one of these fitted in Jabro Cash and Carry in Luton (is it still there? this is about 20 years ago now!!) before it was updated to a 9500! Wish I had a photo of the panel! (I don't know why, just memories I guess!) Matt (not from Vidionics anymore like my username says)