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Part finished new install- &

invert your l bracket

So just wanted to update and wrap up this. Thanks to all the help and pointers, I updated the wiring as explained above, this afternoon, and all is working fine. No unexpected issues and alarm appears to be working just fine. Thank you all! nate

https://www.mtecc.co.uk/products/MFLEX-tm-CLASSIC-BLUE-TAG-p445270276

Allot has changed since your release.... Eagle is same tho, I think...

You are not reading what he typed correctly he typed "with the panel and sensors pulling 0.55 A" Now there was no mention of mA so 0.55A no matter how you try to dress that up is slightly over half an amp. He may have made a mistake but either way what he typed is 0.55A not 0.055A which would be 55mA

Thats half an amp in my book

pizeo's vibrate, thrips / thunder bugs or whatever climb inside stuff & don;t vibrate no more...

So you've proven the wiring and that it's likely the programming... Yes, you should always default them from new.

This is a long shot , but is this possible?

demonic possession, contact your local priest ? Or the sensitivity on the keypad it too high, calibrate / adjust or replace ??

If you have wifi version then its a simple case of switching on the sim, if you dont have either then its a case of plugging in a module. Im probably the only NSI gold company here that covers South London Al-Yeti covers South London but he is not accredited

Yes

Normally the alarm having its own SIM works better than trying to daulpath a router All the cool kids use HKC, but not me

Hkc

Try local independent installer if possible, your paying *£2640* assume no vat reclaim either Access to keep cables apart is main issue , depends how much your house you want taken apart Or is apart currently already?

You can but its not recommended Price for what your getting sounds a little expensive, but there are a few unknowns like parking and any other misc charges.

Ask your boss if you can take stuff home to wire up and play with, if he is a good boss he should be impressed.(If he isnt he isnt a good boss) I learned loads at home on with old panels that I had removed to update, as well as new panels that I was installing. There is nothing like it for gaining confidence in how to program panels and how to wire them etc. Make sure you have the engineers manual for any old panels that you take home, as the programming is not the same as the ones you currently install. Well done for finding here and asking, many young lads/lass's wont have the initiative to do that, you are obviously keen, stick around we will help where we can.

I would suggest that is the panel, its not one I have seen before but I would think that is it.

Lidl bakery useful. Aldi don't like at all.

I'd assume the fire doors & shoplifters ? But could be anything ? Sainsbury's is my preferred super market. then maybe Tesco ? Morrison's is pretty much - unwashed scum of the earth which makes an Asda look posh, My local Waitrose has an lovely "drain" smell about it, go in your workwear & security follows you I have a nice Heron's & also Heron's on the council estates...these along with farmfoods are brilliant. Go in the store in suit & says please & thank to checkout person & they think you must be a mystery shopper or from snooping from head office !

Morrisons is a bit posh for up here... Heron or Farmfoods maybe?

Evening all. I have yet another question regarding my newly installed Premier Elite control panel. Question is, how do I program a particular zone to be timed when in part set ? I think I have managed to set the zones I want to be on or off when the system is part set, but I cannot find any option that allows me to program a zone as timed when part set, I can only find either on or off options. Regards, Dave.

One day I'm going to sell up & get a proper job on the tools. I reckon I could walk into just about anywhere working with just about anything (fire/security) & be the equal of anyone already working there ?

Two things of note here, if your panel is pulling over half an amp quiescent that seems quite high to me and also if your new battery is dropping to 12v under load I would suggest its not a good battery.

cqr used to have clear plastic & you could see them inside I use to find them inside cables upto 1m or so, I reckon they crawled in, & each time one crawled in behind the they;d move up more ? battery in sounder will last 2yrs or 20 yrs....

When you completely down-power It remembers the codes zone settings ect in the NVM. But it wont keep the clock going while its down powered, that will default to watchdog

It puts more load on the psu it pulls more current than the psu is designed to provide, and eventually burns out the charging circuit

And not cut the spares off ......

Premiers have separate programmable volumes for chime and advisory tones

Yes thats called back focusing

Yes, they are also really hard to get hold of. You have to send a message in bottle...

Unlikely, if weak WiFi it's not impossible, and remember it's a friend of yours, which you don't live with I say that because usually when you ask lots of questions and try and fault find what someone says , it's not always what they originally said, which misleads what the real problem with audio might be, weak WiFi can cause audio loss, and even a device elsewhere could potentially interfere with audio when WiFi weak, possibly it's a coincidence

As above But battery can sometimes prematurely die , might be example in a loft where I seen them die quicker , or sometimes boiler room and so on Yes load test , try it But you might be running all wireless aswell?

Yuasa rate NP batteries as 5 year service life for use within alarm systems, other manufacturers maybe different. From experience you could get 10 years from a Yuasa one but it's best to swap before it's deteriorating.

Hi, The battery should be replaced every four years. This is the manufacturers expected lifetime guidelines. I have known batteries to continue to hold good life long after four years, but accredited installers have to follow the manufactures guidelines. The performance of the battery is effected by many things, the quality of the electricity more spikes and fluctuations will reduce the life of the battery. The quality of the charging system (HKC is generally good) power cuts discharging and charging the battery will reduce its life. The size of the battery should reflect the current pulled from the system.

Did you factory default the panel on initial power up?

Boom you got this...

Seems we all do/did them differently... Similar to 6 Under the washer like JW and only half round with the sheath left on but longer than the cores if that makes sense.

When the PSU is off there is no AC present the battery is DC it probably is coming from the PSU im not doubting it but my bet is that all of them give off AC noise

yeah dont use them anymore but when i did, strip in the normal way (leaving some insulation to twist tight) then wrap around a 2.5mm terminal driver, remove screw and washer and push through loop of cable making sure to keep so when it tightens it doesnt loosen the coil.

Bear in mind that switch mode psu add what looks like induced ac.id be interested to see what a new psu does. Mine is knacked cos I've overloaded it lots in testing.

You could try an ACT1313 https://www.actmeters.co.uk/alarm-troubleshooting/1313-12v-spike-suppressor

or try removing the ac power (pull fuse) for a bit and see if it continues when on battery only. Also measure your induced ac with the mains off to see the difference between the psu on and off

Exorcizo te, creatura salis, per Deum vivum, per Deum verum, per Deum sanctum, per Deum

Not seen it myself but most keypad are set to always on. The close to wake is an rf keypad thing but allows you to have wired and rf kehpads seem similar. I'd say you have a faulty one

You can have them as dummy lights Don't mean it's always a deterrent tho

You'll take it all apart and it will likely (if working correctly) make noise until you have finished or until the noise pollution timer kicks in. There is no magic disable button or menu that makes it easy to disable, back doors like that could be exploited.

Hello I use to work for Maxim Alarms and use to install these systems they use to have a six volt battery in that bell cover and a piece of plastic capping coming down the wall to a toke lock in a box where we’re you would set they alarm