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  1. Agreed, we were quite conservative with the www with our two kids, both of them were avid readers and not really into gaming etc. No phones until they were at high school, James had an ipod thing but even that was closely monitored by us. Both were taught about the obvious dangers of the www. I remember looking thorough Jamess search history and he'd been searching for boobs. He was about 12 at the time and was mortified when I spoke to him about it lol. If it was up to me I'd also restrict under 16s and think it's a cesspit for bullying, at least when I went to school the bullying stopped at 3pm.
    3 points
  2. Allot has changed since your release.... Eagle is same tho, I think...
    2 points
  3. You are not reading what he typed correctly he typed "with the panel and sensors pulling 0.55 A" Now there was no mention of mA so 0.55A no matter how you try to dress that up is slightly over half an amp. He may have made a mistake but either way what he typed is 0.55A not 0.055A which would be 55mA
    2 points
  4. pizeo's vibrate, thrips / thunder bugs or whatever climb inside stuff & don;t vibrate no more...
    2 points
  5. So you've proven the wiring and that it's likely the programming... Yes, you should always default them from new.
    2 points
  6. This is a long shot , but is this possible?
    2 points
  7. demonic possession, contact your local priest ? Or the sensitivity on the keypad it too high, calibrate / adjust or replace ??
    2 points
  8. Here's a crazy idea.... why not power down your knacked alarm ?
    2 points
  9. If you don't want it then get it killed. If you do want it then find someone to. We have a boat load of people and pyronix are to blame for this who do want a security system but spend more at Costa.
    2 points
  10. nonce ban ? https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/news/2022/04/06/TELEMMGLPICT000058725877_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqhZJ9vnP3TZj6dX4F0Tnhrlt1EhdK4aiwcWMQPYeW9P0.jpeg?imwidth=680 they'd laugh out loud....
    2 points
  11. I wouldn't of thought a bulb unless halogen would get hot enough quixh enough
    2 points
  12. Evening all. I have yet another question regarding my newly installed Premier Elite control panel. Question is, how do I program a particular zone to be timed when in part set ? I think I have managed to set the zones I want to be on or off when the system is part set, but I cannot find any option that allows me to program a zone as timed when part set, I can only find either on or off options. Regards, Dave.
    1 point
  13. all staff are superstars who should be paid 80k all subscribers think an alarm is £300
    1 point
  14. One day I'm going to sell up & get a proper job on the tools. I reckon I could walk into just about anywhere working with just about anything (fire/security) & be the equal of anyone already working there ?
    1 point
  15. Yep I'd also assume the PIR's are in Auto and sleeping. Door contacts shouldn't do that unless you have programmed them incorrectly. They default to always awake.
    1 point
  16. Most likely because you are activating the devices just before or during the setting procedure. Wireless devices will go to sleep for a short period after activation to conserve battery life. If you try triggering a device that has not activated recently you should find the system will respond almost immediately.
    1 point
  17. cqr used to have clear plastic & you could see them inside I use to find them inside cables upto 1m or so, I reckon they crawled in, & each time one crawled in behind the they;d move up more ? battery in sounder will last 2yrs or 20 yrs....
    1 point
  18. 1 point
  19. bought a 2nd hand monster one. Charities get rid every 3 yrs etc Its been flawless and i use it to print the village newletter etc 88000 pages in the last 18 months just on that. But ive tried to go as paperless as possible so print a lot less than we did 5 yrs ago. Not cos im green just for money reasons
    1 point
  20. the nice rf module would be plugged in here. As i should it isnt so im assuming your not use nice rf remotes
    1 point
  21. Did you factory default the panel on initial power up?
    1 point
  22. This should always been changed leaving anything with default codes is a huge risk on a system designed to be secure. All systems need to be serviced or they will eventually fail, usually at 2am etc
    1 point
  23. When the PSU is off there is no AC present the battery is DC it probably is coming from the PSU im not doubting it but my bet is that all of them give off AC noise
    1 point
  24. You could try an ACT1313 https://www.actmeters.co.uk/alarm-troubleshooting/1313-12v-spike-suppressor
    1 point
  25. I suppose I'd test it by running it on a lead to another location not fixed to the wall
    1 point
  26. What's opposite it or near it It's time for pictures , don't worry if install is dodgy , so are mine But your saying when no one is near it right , from a distance
    1 point
  27. I would swap it, they will get exchange aswell Otherwise go see
    1 point
  28. Some of the keypads had touch sensitivity problems , these are all usually exchanged via the supplier , hkc can't tell you which ones are at fault , and over time the problem gets worse where they keypad starts pressing its own buttons as such If you bought without warranties unlikely you can exchange and will just have to hope it's just the Illumination bit
    1 point
  29. Most external sirens are compatible with each other but using the same brand as the panel will mean the terminals are named the same and you may get better feature compatibility. Regarding PIR's they are the elements within the pyro. A quad has a better sensor and lens arrangement dividing the detection area into four elements that all need to trigger together. For a great explanation I always point to this video. Bear in mind it's only explaining a basic PIR not a Quad. You could buy sensors years ago with twin dual element pyro's side by side. So cheaper here then...
    1 point
  30. They just want to throw it in and charge extra for the service and batteries. It's sad some of the industry has been going that way... Would be a nice job to wire with the boards up already. Wireless does have it's place but I'd always wire as much as I can. Keypads and Bells are always wired on my systems even if much of the detection is not. Texecom isn't as open to DIY as it was, especially on the Premier stuff. Veritas is a DIY only product now I'd say tho. I would wire a single 8 core to everything, but a single 6 core to everything would likely be fine. I just like having spare pairs for the future. Then see if you can find a company that will use your wiring.
    1 point
  31. Bell on battery , but I am feeling nervous already
    1 point
  32. This is the reason you use proper gear. Diy stuff can be disabled but what would you prefer an off switch? Or worse an off code. You have found out that compliant equipment does as it says.
    1 point
  33. This was the road I was heading down as it clearly shows this in the RF RIO manual but without a meaningful manual on the RF Portal I can't get a definite answer! I suspect it is because they are enrolled in a different way?
    1 point
  34. You can have them as dummy lights Don't mean it's always a deterrent tho
    1 point
  35. Yes they are let's hope a no light one does too. A poorly maintained system should be decommissioned. Get it powered down then it won't be a nuisance to you or your neighbours
    1 point
  36. I have just noticed that the keyswitch is missing the plastic arm that pushes the Microswitch in, and that also allows the solenoid to lock the key switch
    1 point
  37. Just following up to confirm the alarm didn’t trigger again. The electrical fault has now been fixed and a guy from the alarm company checked the backup battery and it’s fine and didn’t need replaced. Thanks to all the friendly folk on here who give their time to help strangers on the internet (whichever part of these beautiful isles you happen to be from! ). It’s much appreciated.
    1 point
  38. OP, see many of these out & about.... your 9450 is about the same age
    1 point
  39. You may be able to change the setting on the alarm by pressing buttons, Which button you press depend on which alarm it is....
    1 point
  40. It is almost a piece of artwork. I'd love this in my collection ?
    1 point
  41. As above just take it apart and switch it all off bit by bit , I would start with switching off mains , the disconnect battery, mean while your external bell and perhaps internal bell might being going lunatic stylee , hopefully you already have your ladders setup and ready to smash it to bits if it doesn't play ball Btw if old panel still works , leave it in place and set up your new system on the bench , set it up in how you want it to generally work and then install it after , unless your confident anyway , you can still rip out old one
    1 point
  42. Probably the best thing to do is to get three quotes. I would advise that you pick three accredited companies either ssiab or NSI gold https://www.nsi.org.uk/ https://ssaib.org/ you can search for local companies with your postcode on these sites Any good company will be able to tailor the alarm system to your needs and will give advise on how to make it simple to use. Most companies will have their own preferred brand that they like to install, we could all start recommending different brands here but it would just confuse you if installers in your area dont use these brands and recommend something else. Once you have your quotes come back here for more advice if you need it
    1 point
  43. PJF, thanks for that. By the way, I'm one of the 'old timers' been at it for 30yrs+, ask your guys if any remember the Model 88, 89 or 91 Tele-Alarm, SID 27s Seismic Detector or 23p PSU (got the paperwork for these!!!!!) magpye
    1 point
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