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Part finished new install- &

invert your l bracket

So just wanted to update and wrap up this. Thanks to all the help and pointers, I updated the wiring as explained above, this afternoon, and all is working fine. No unexpected issues and alarm appears to be working just fine. Thank you all! nate

https://www.mtecc.co.uk/products/MFLEX-tm-CLASSIC-BLUE-TAG-p445270276

Allot has changed since your release.... Eagle is same tho, I think...

You are not reading what he typed correctly he typed "with the panel and sensors pulling 0.55 A" Now there was no mention of mA so 0.55A no matter how you try to dress that up is slightly over half an amp. He may have made a mistake but either way what he typed is 0.55A not 0.055A which would be 55mA

Thats half an amp in my book

pizeo's vibrate, thrips / thunder bugs or whatever climb inside stuff & don;t vibrate no more...

So you've proven the wiring and that it's likely the programming... Yes, you should always default them from new.

This is a long shot , but is this possible?

demonic possession, contact your local priest ? Or the sensitivity on the keypad it too high, calibrate / adjust or replace ??

If you have wifi version then its a simple case of switching on the sim, if you dont have either then its a case of plugging in a module. Im probably the only NSI gold company here that covers South London Al-Yeti covers South London but he is not accredited

You look after one!

Im not a fan of either but I hear less people complaining about the Texecom app going down on the FB forums

OP it looks like you had the tamper disabled or linked out on your SAB. Al is showing what needs to be done to rectify it. I also assume it was linked out for a reason. Either though lack of knowledge or because of an issue they didnt want to tell you about. If the issue remains then wiring it correctly will give you a fault that previously looked ok as you had no fault. You still did it was just bypassed

But put the wire running between 0v and tmpf in the bell

I'd assume the Eaton tags to be more robust case wise than random ebay ones...

I had a bloke not bat an eye lid at replacing a number of 2yr old WiFi access points Asking to replace a 20yr alarms is like I've shat on the floor

I have various email servers that arnt free. but willing to let active trade members use em

Close.... I got high Vis on

Ankle tag & 7too7 curfew ? is it listed in the grey "workshop" manual, as the product is much older than pdf files ?

Evening all. I have yet another question regarding my newly installed Premier Elite control panel. Question is, how do I program a particular zone to be timed when in part set ? I think I have managed to set the zones I want to be on or off when the system is part set, but I cannot find any option that allows me to program a zone as timed when part set, I can only find either on or off options. Regards, Dave.

Good evening all. Requesting a little help from the good folk of the security installer. I have a pair of Pyronix internal twin alert speaker / sounder units that I'd like to wire into the above mentioned Texecom Premier 24 control panel. I've attached a couple of pictures showing both the speaker / sounder connections and the control panel connections. If some kind person would kindly give me the correct wiring connections between the two it'd be much appreciated. Thank you and regards, Dave.

Like most sounders the Twin alert manual has the wiring instructions for different manufacturers. Aux Tamp / Aux Tamp / Bell / Spk- / 0V / +12V

One day I'm going to sell up & get a proper job on the tools. I reckon I could walk into just about anywhere working with just about anything (fire/security) & be the equal of anyone already working there ?

Its a two year old thread I doubt that he will reply. In answer to your question. In most cases hard wired detectors are compatible with any brand of panel, you will most likely have to change end of line resistors along with the panel.

As JW stated the charging rate is in the standard. Larger premier panels have a charging rate selection jumper so you can adjust the rate depending on the battery and make sure it conforms.

So I'm thinking this low measurement could be due to voltage drop on the connecting leads (which could amount to a few tenths of a volt at that current). The panel will only measure voltage at the board during a load test.. Next step is to check voltage at the actual terminals of the battery.

Yep I'd also assume the PIR's are in Auto and sleeping. Door contacts shouldn't do that unless you have programmed them incorrectly. They default to always awake.

Most likely because you are activating the devices just before or during the setting procedure. Wireless devices will go to sleep for a short period after activation to conserve battery life. If you try triggering a device that has not activated recently you should find the system will respond almost immediately.

cqr used to have clear plastic & you could see them inside I use to find them inside cables upto 1m or so, I reckon they crawled in, & each time one crawled in behind the they;d move up more ? battery in sounder will last 2yrs or 20 yrs....

Pretty standard yep.

just snip them individually that way you will know what colour goes where when you put it back/replace it. No need to down power completely just be aware the alarm will tamper

A D B B C T D A S 49

Nice... jpg

Premiers have separate programmable volumes for chime and advisory tones

Unlikely, if weak WiFi it's not impossible, and remember it's a friend of yours, which you don't live with I say that because usually when you ask lots of questions and try and fault find what someone says , it's not always what they originally said, which misleads what the real problem with audio might be, weak WiFi can cause audio loss, and even a device elsewhere could potentially interfere with audio when WiFi weak, possibly it's a coincidence

Every fire years in an intruder alarm Every 4 years in a fire alarm Unless they fail earlier...

Hi, The battery should be replaced every four years. This is the manufacturers expected lifetime guidelines. I have known batteries to continue to hold good life long after four years, but accredited installers have to follow the manufactures guidelines. The performance of the battery is effected by many things, the quality of the electricity more spikes and fluctuations will reduce the life of the battery. The quality of the charging system (HKC is generally good) power cuts discharging and charging the battery will reduce its life. The size of the battery should reflect the current pulled from the system.

Fish fingers with toy

@Alan12 You sound old enough to have learned many life lessons, but unfortunately taking advice from someone with experience isnt one of them. I dont think anyone here is trying to drum up business. My business mostly deals with commercial and public sector contracts, we do have some domestic but not a great deal. I would not be interested in taking on a 30 year old domestic Scantronic panel contract. Most here would be the same we all have plenty of work, this is one industry where you may struggle to find someone that will take it on. It was clear from you first post you are not a DIY installer you inherited the system and decided to try and fix it yourself. If you were a DIY installer you would have installed it yourself and had the manual already, and you would know what to do. Most DIY installers come here because they dont understand something in the manual or they want clarification on something or they want advice on placement etc. Alarm systems are made in such a way that they cannot be easily compromised. The side effects of this is that when they are not serviced regulary parts fail. This only becomes apparent when its too late and the alarm is sounding and cannot be stopped. Again most DIYers would understand this as they installed the system and understand how it works and carry out their own service regularly. Security companies have to run 24 hours and operate an out of hours service because even serviced alarm systems can go wrong. All of us on here get calls every now and again from non contract customers because there alarm is sounding and they cant stop it. My engineers wont attend non contract customers (mainly because non-contract cant afford the call-out charge) but that doesnt stop non-contract calling us and disturbing their sleep, and this is why we give advice on servicing. I am sorry that you thought that the advice we gave was not good enough. This forum is here to give free advice from engineers and business owners that give up their time free because they are passionate about this industry, not because they need to earn from you

This should always been changed leaving anything with default codes is a huge risk on a system designed to be secure. All systems need to be serviced or they will eventually fail, usually at 2am etc

Ok we waiting...... Lol

It may aswell be OF the amount of skin in the shot... Issue with doing a full turn around the screw is the loop binds causing it to pull round with the pan head; like with the red core here.

An induced AC reading of 66.6Vac is one to worry about....

Good job

Some of the keypads had touch sensitivity problems , these are all usually exchanged via the supplier , hkc can't tell you which ones are at fault , and over time the problem gets worse where they keypad starts pressing its own buttons as such If you bought without warranties unlikely you can exchange and will just have to hope it's just the Illumination bit

Not seen it myself but most keypad are set to always on. The close to wake is an rf keypad thing but allows you to have wired and rf kehpads seem similar. I'd say you have a faulty one

As above just take it apart and switch it all off bit by bit , I would start with switching off mains , the disconnect battery, mean while your external bell and perhaps internal bell might being going lunatic stylee , hopefully you already have your ladders setup and ready to smash it to bits if it doesn't play ball Btw if old panel still works , leave it in place and set up your new system on the bench , set it up in how you want it to generally work and then install it after , unless your confident anyway , you can still rip out old one

PJF, thanks for that. By the way, I'm one of the 'old timers' been at it for 30yrs+, ask your guys if any remember the Model 88, 89 or 91 Tele-Alarm, SID 27s Seismic Detector or 23p PSU (got the paperwork for these!!!!!) magpye