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Wow, congratulations you two.

- VID_20251117_103431903.mp4

They were designed so if they were drilled, once the drill bit shorted the two covers it caused a tamper alarm. I got called out to a bank one horrible winters night to a tamper fault on the bell box which you could hardly see because of the snow. I asked the assistant manager if he hand a sweeping brush. He thought i was going to clear the snow on the path for my ladders. Should have seen his face when i twatted the delta bell with the brush loosening all the snow that had blown in the vent causing high resistance.

Part finished new install- &

invert your l bracket

So just wanted to update and wrap up this. Thanks to all the help and pointers, I updated the wiring as explained above, this afternoon, and all is working fine. No unexpected issues and alarm appears to be working just fine. Thank you all! nate

https://www.mtecc.co.uk/products/MFLEX-tm-CLASSIC-BLUE-TAG-p445270276

Allot has changed since your release.... Eagle is same tho, I think...

You are not reading what he typed correctly he typed "with the panel and sensors pulling 0.55 A" Now there was no mention of mA so 0.55A no matter how you try to dress that up is slightly over half an amp. He may have made a mistake but either way what he typed is 0.55A not 0.055A which would be 55mA

Thats half an amp in my book

pizeo's vibrate, thrips / thunder bugs or whatever climb inside stuff & don;t vibrate no more...

rs485 'should' have termination resistors. Might help if your cable is truly shocking. Ive run rs485 2.5 miles as a test in the ancient past but on twisted pair belden

Blame it on the electrician and don't worry about it lol

I took "home office" as Home Office or a government building. You get what you pay for at the end of the day. If the agreement is to use existing infra, even if you don't recommend it and you have that in writing; that's up to them.

What setup will any of this matter? Many systems are just not that critical, even some sites which require feeds for the home office are using the existing networks they don't care that much either as long as there's a constanish feed

Separate network and unmanaged switches. Consider fibre for backbone. You're removing variables that way. Sharing the sites network will only mean liaising with IT departments and intermittent issues you have no control over. Fine, if your site IT on a job creation scheme not so good for us.

Goodevening, I could use some help setting up a Betty Siren (see datasheet attached) on my GD48. My setup is as follows; MK7, Selfmon LCE-K3 and RF Portal C079-2 on the Bus, connected to several DO8M and IR8M sensors. Everything works fine, except my siren, I don't get it working. I connected (+) (blue) to AUX3 and (-) (blue/white) 1001, see attached. In my system 10001 output set to Siren V and neg. Tamper from the siren (white/green and green tot AuxTEMP and GND No sound of the siren when zones are violated. All zones are labelled to intruder and Siren also. Can someone help me out? Thanks so much! Kind regards, Robert Jan Datasheet_Betty_sirene.pdf

Is anyone else having issues with version 4.00 and wireless keypads Earlier today I've been configuring a KIT002 with 2x wireless keypads, Its not going to plan. It appears that the radio keypads are as clunky as hell on the Ricochet communication side of things Its all setup on the bench as usual, All devices configured with plenty of waiting time Ricochet manager shows all the detection devices and statistics but both keypads are showing (Question Marks) I've deleted them a dozen or more times, but this makes no difference at all. I'm getting extremely slow communication from the panel, Garbled messages on the keypads and different displays on both Whilst expecting the typical "Preparing to Arm message, This is not happening all the time, Its really strange. Upon entering the default 5678 customer code, I'm getting "RADIO NOT READY PLEASE WAIT B/F ARM" At this point I am locked onto that screen and I have to wait for 3-4 minutes before it seems to arm itself I'm convinced this is either a V4 firmware issue or its something to do with the wireless keypads. Not looking good for me, were due to install this first thing Monday, Its got headache and bad news written all over it Would be interested to see if anyone else had this,

Maybe, but we don't all have same ideas and I have been on a site where other engineers gave me better ideas Maybe wait until your engineer turns up and starts and brain storm with him Usually if I think I am going to damage anything I won't go ahead especially on residential, always good to check with owner if there happy with it Some don't care at all , they say drill it break and say decorator is being paid to fix it ..........,

Therapy session... A suspended floor is normally an old house with little walls under the joists ? Old as in Victorian or Edwardian, if you've not seen the floor boards yet, don't be surprised to find they're been smashed to feck by new fangled inventions like internal plumbing, central heating or 3 different electrical installations.

Meth

Thanks everyone, we got it working on the bench. He was giggling away setting then triggering it by cracking open the keypad, then the bell box, then the panel then... Thank you so very much.

If you have wifi version then its a simple case of switching on the sim, if you dont have either then its a case of plugging in a module. Im probably the only NSI gold company here that covers South London Al-Yeti covers South London but he is not accredited

Yes

Try local independent installer if possible, your paying *£2640* assume no vat reclaim either Access to keep cables apart is main issue , depends how much your house you want taken apart Or is apart currently already?

The classics can't do silent part set. Would need a hi lo sounder with a volume adjustment or upgraded panel. I assuming not rf

But put the wire running between 0v and tmpf in the bell

I'd assume the Eaton tags to be more robust case wise than random ebay ones...

maybe, anything listed as galaxy, gardtec ect... will probally work, unless your buying 100's it a bit pointless

I have various email servers that arnt free. but willing to let active trade members use em

Close.... I got high Vis on

I'd assume the fire doors & shoplifters ? But could be anything ? Sainsbury's is my preferred super market. then maybe Tesco ? Morrison's is pretty much - unwashed scum of the earth which makes an Asda look posh, My local Waitrose has an lovely "drain" smell about it, go in your workwear & security follows you I have a nice Heron's & also Heron's on the council estates...these along with farmfoods are brilliant. Go in the store in suit & says please & thank to checkout person & they think you must be a mystery shopper or from snooping from head office !

Morrisons is a bit posh for up here... Heron or Farmfoods maybe?

Ankle tag & 7too7 curfew ? is it listed in the grey "workshop" manual, as the product is much older than pdf files ?

Evening all. I have yet another question regarding my newly installed Premier Elite control panel. Question is, how do I program a particular zone to be timed when in part set ? I think I have managed to set the zones I want to be on or off when the system is part set, but I cannot find any option that allows me to program a zone as timed when part set, I can only find either on or off options. Regards, Dave.

Good evening all. Requesting a little help from the good folk of the security installer. I have a pair of Pyronix internal twin alert speaker / sounder units that I'd like to wire into the above mentioned Texecom Premier 24 control panel. I've attached a couple of pictures showing both the speaker / sounder connections and the control panel connections. If some kind person would kindly give me the correct wiring connections between the two it'd be much appreciated. Thank you and regards, Dave.

all staff are superstars who should be paid 80k all subscribers think an alarm is £300

One day I'm going to sell up & get a proper job on the tools. I reckon I could walk into just about anywhere working with just about anything (fire/security) & be the equal of anyone already working there ?

As JW stated the charging rate is in the standard. Larger premier panels have a charging rate selection jumper so you can adjust the rate depending on the battery and make sure it conforms.

Yep I'd also assume the PIR's are in Auto and sleeping. Door contacts shouldn't do that unless you have programmed them incorrectly. They default to always awake.

Most likely because you are activating the devices just before or during the setting procedure. Wireless devices will go to sleep for a short period after activation to conserve battery life. If you try triggering a device that has not activated recently you should find the system will respond almost immediately.

cqr used to have clear plastic & you could see them inside I use to find them inside cables upto 1m or so, I reckon they crawled in, & each time one crawled in behind the they;d move up more ? battery in sounder will last 2yrs or 20 yrs....

When you completely down-power It remembers the codes zone settings ect in the NVM. But it wont keep the clock going while its down powered, that will default to watchdog

Pretty standard yep.

just snip them individually that way you will know what colour goes where when you put it back/replace it. No need to down power completely just be aware the alarm will tamper

It puts more load on the psu it pulls more current than the psu is designed to provide, and eventually burns out the charging circuit

Hi there. We recently moved into a house (new to us) which has an Intellisense alarm keypad, a (as far as I can see) Securit 800L / ST800L+ system and a ‘box’ on the outside wall of the house. There are various sensors dotted around the house which all seem to be live, flashing red when movement is detected. There is also a mains-powered fire alarm detection system which may or may not be linked…... However, there do not appear to be any lights lit on the keypad (which suggests it’s not powered up), and when we asked the previous owners they said they never had a code, and never used the alarm. I tried telephoning the number on the exterior box, but the number is no longer in service. Also none of the numbers for C&K Systems work, nor does their website or e-mail address, so I assume they're no longer with us. Obviously we’re not keen to ‘fiddle’ with anything, and so far a manual ‘override’ of previous settings seems to be quite hard to find. We’re not after a system which alerts the police necessarily, but simply one where we can set it, and if someone breaks in will sound an alarm. Is this likely to be an expensive ‘fix’, or is 'someone' able to give me some guidance so I can get it working myself, please? I'd prefer to understand what system I have, do a full 'back to factory' reset myself, and start from ground zero. Pic of keypad attached for info.

Been given 2 of these, both new but tatty boxes Before I consider them as WEEE I thought I'd document them for the nerds here. Didn't find much info on them from searching.

I wouldn't be stripping the outer sheath at the entry point, which sounds like your hinting at in the post? Cable anchors for multiples, maybe finger trunking if you have a large cab and lots of wiring, agree with JW there is practical tidy and overboard. Think about if when your finished it looks like it would be a PITA to add/remove/replace something while still keeping tidy.

I would have thought a backup is good practice, I have a client who is kicking off because his access control PC has died and we Don’t hold a back up but your comment makes me wonder if GDPR comes into play here? I have looked before but is there a check list for maintenance requirements for access control, this is what I ask the guys to do Check voltage on lock output check backup battery check functions of door ie RTE, BG Reader check lock is secure Check software is recording transactions Am I missing anything? thanks