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So just wanted to update and wrap up this. Thanks to all the help and pointers, I updated the wiring as explained above, this afternoon, and all is working fine. No unexpected issues and alarm appears to be working just fine. Thank you all! nate

https://www.mtecc.co.uk/products/MFLEX-tm-CLASSIC-BLUE-TAG-p445270276

Allot has changed since your release.... Eagle is same tho, I think...

You are not reading what he typed correctly he typed "with the panel and sensors pulling 0.55 A" Now there was no mention of mA so 0.55A no matter how you try to dress that up is slightly over half an amp. He may have made a mistake but either way what he typed is 0.55A not 0.055A which would be 55mA

Thats half an amp in my book

pizeo's vibrate, thrips / thunder bugs or whatever climb inside stuff & don;t vibrate no more...

So you've proven the wiring and that it's likely the programming... Yes, you should always default them from new.

This is a long shot , but is this possible?

demonic possession, contact your local priest ? Or the sensitivity on the keypad it too high, calibrate / adjust or replace ??

Here's a crazy idea.... why not power down your knacked alarm ?

If you don't want it then get it killed. If you do want it then find someone to. We have a boat load of people and pyronix are to blame for this who do want a security system but spend more at Costa.

OP it looks like you had the tamper disabled or linked out on your SAB. Al is showing what needs to be done to rectify it. I also assume it was linked out for a reason. Either though lack of knowledge or because of an issue they didnt want to tell you about. If the issue remains then wiring it correctly will give you a fault that previously looked ok as you had no fault. You still did it was just bypassed

But put the wire running between 0v and tmpf in the bell

I'd assume the Eaton tags to be more robust case wise than random ebay ones...

maybe, anything listed as galaxy, gardtec ect... will probally work, unless your buying 100's it a bit pointless

I had a bloke not bat an eye lid at replacing a number of 2yr old WiFi access points Asking to replace a 20yr alarms is like I've shat on the floor

Close.... I got high Vis on

I'd assume the fire doors & shoplifters ? But could be anything ? Sainsbury's is my preferred super market. then maybe Tesco ? Morrison's is pretty much - unwashed scum of the earth which makes an Asda look posh, My local Waitrose has an lovely "drain" smell about it, go in your workwear & security follows you I have a nice Heron's & also Heron's on the council estates...these along with farmfoods are brilliant. Go in the store in suit & says please & thank to checkout person & they think you must be a mystery shopper or from snooping from head office !

Morrisons is a bit posh for up here... Heron or Farmfoods maybe?

Ankle tag & 7too7 curfew ? is it listed in the grey "workshop" manual, as the product is much older than pdf files ?

all staff are superstars who should be paid 80k all subscribers think an alarm is £300

program circuits 1-8 as "Normally Closed" (from zone menu) Out the box the panel is expecting an "End of Line" circuit

As JW stated the charging rate is in the standard. Larger premier panels have a charging rate selection jumper so you can adjust the rate depending on the battery and make sure it conforms.

So I'm thinking this low measurement could be due to voltage drop on the connecting leads (which could amount to a few tenths of a volt at that current). The panel will only measure voltage at the board during a load test.. Next step is to check voltage at the actual terminals of the battery.

I'm thinking I need to connect 0V from the power supply to SAB Hold, because that's actually the negative power supply to the sounder. Then connect 0 V to to External Bell -, because that seems to be Trig - on the schematic.

When you completely down-power It remembers the codes zone settings ect in the NVM. But it wont keep the clock going while its down powered, that will default to watchdog

just snip them individually that way you will know what colour goes where when you put it back/replace it. No need to down power completely just be aware the alarm will tamper

It puts more load on the psu it pulls more current than the psu is designed to provide, and eventually burns out the charging circuit

the nice rf module would be plugged in here. As i should it isnt so im assuming your not use nice rf remotes

Nice... jpg

As above But battery can sometimes prematurely die , might be example in a loft where I seen them die quicker , or sometimes boiler room and so on Yes load test , try it But you might be running all wireless aswell?

@Alan12 You sound old enough to have learned many life lessons, but unfortunately taking advice from someone with experience isnt one of them. I dont think anyone here is trying to drum up business. My business mostly deals with commercial and public sector contracts, we do have some domestic but not a great deal. I would not be interested in taking on a 30 year old domestic Scantronic panel contract. Most here would be the same we all have plenty of work, this is one industry where you may struggle to find someone that will take it on. It was clear from you first post you are not a DIY installer you inherited the system and decided to try and fix it yourself. If you were a DIY installer you would have installed it yourself and had the manual already, and you would know what to do. Most DIY installers come here because they dont understand something in the manual or they want clarification on something or they want advice on placement etc. Alarm systems are made in such a way that they cannot be easily compromised. The side effects of this is that when they are not serviced regulary parts fail. This only becomes apparent when its too late and the alarm is sounding and cannot be stopped. Again most DIYers would understand this as they installed the system and understand how it works and carry out their own service regularly. Security companies have to run 24 hours and operate an out of hours service because even serviced alarm systems can go wrong. All of us on here get calls every now and again from non contract customers because there alarm is sounding and they cant stop it. My engineers wont attend non contract customers (mainly because non-contract cant afford the call-out charge) but that doesnt stop non-contract calling us and disturbing their sleep, and this is why we give advice on servicing. I am sorry that you thought that the advice we gave was not good enough. This forum is here to give free advice from engineers and business owners that give up their time free because they are passionate about this industry, not because they need to earn from you

It may aswell be OF the amount of skin in the shot... Issue with doing a full turn around the screw is the loop binds causing it to pull round with the pan head; like with the red core here.

Unlike my only fans a/c this one's free- VID_20241108_182950361.mp4

Don't use them any more, more modern styles have PCB mounted sprung terminals and most things are wired FSL/EOL now. You should remove enough isolation from the conductors to do a half turn around the screw. Wrap the conductor with the 7 strands twisted up together, clockwise to make a half turn around the screw. The washer is to trap the reed conductors securely, I have always gone under the washer but I would imagine it's designed to be between.

Ive just checked the ac noise on our demo panel in the training room and thats 32v, that panel hasnt seen much action at all, mostly used for testing different programming scenarios. It has a couple of wired contacts and a wired detector the old style keypad a GSM/Wifi card and some wireless stuff on it. I am wondering if its a trait of the switch mode PSU

Excellent

I would swap it, they will get exchange aswell Otherwise go see

Not seen it myself but most keypad are set to always on. The close to wake is an rf keypad thing but allows you to have wired and rf kehpads seem similar. I'd say you have a faulty one

You can have the lights on all the time, or on proximity. I have an RKP on my landing I would have noticed if it kept illuminating. I wouldnt know if my other RKP's illuminated intermittently as the only time I go to them is when im coming or going .

Kids of today! Blooming amateurs! Running cables while the floor is up is easy, hard wired is better than wireless for 101 reasons. Not that wireless doesnt have its place, if you had a flat or your renting, or its impossible to get a wire to where its needed wireless is fine. But in your case it sounds like whoever you got to quote is either lazy or stupid and you dont want either of those combinations installing stuff in your house

Basically took 20seconds once prepped

Bell on battery , but I am feeling nervous already

Some systems are mesh, as you have some wiring, receivers can likely be distributed throughout the system if it's really necessary. Pneumatic drills with decent bits fly through engineering brick or even concrete and rebar. I have yet to find a job that's not possible... Two sensors on a 6-core is possible via EOL wiring, which most systems are now. For control panels they mostly do the same stuff and every installer has there own preferred kit they have trained on, if your DIY'ing a one off it probably doesn't matter. Proper systems are not designed for installation by end users, so your not going to find reviews. You will possibly also struggle to get manufacturer support or manuals at all.

For work in London you don't really need to provide much more information than say "Battersea" to see if a local provider is willing to offer a price for the job. Its unlikely we have an active poster that supports the location & your preferred manufacturer but a member may be able to provide a recommendation to co. which will look after you. I'm form he North of England & do some commercial work in London, after travel & expenses I think I earn the same money as working at home.... I only do it for the turn over & the look of horror when I say please & thank you to bus drivers & good morning sir to traffic wardens..... ect

This was the road I was heading down as it clearly shows this in the RF RIO manual but without a meaningful manual on the RF Portal I can't get a definite answer! I suspect it is because they are enrolled in a different way?

You can have them as dummy lights Don't mean it's always a deterrent tho

Yes they are let's hope a no light one does too. A poorly maintained system should be decommissioned. Get it powered down then it won't be a nuisance to you or your neighbours

You'll take it all apart and it will likely (if working correctly) make noise until you have finished or until the noise pollution timer kicks in. There is no magic disable button or menu that makes it easy to disable, back doors like that could be exploited.