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- VID_20251117_103431903.mp4

This isnt facebook!

They were designed so if they were drilled, once the drill bit shorted the two covers it caused a tamper alarm. I got called out to a bank one horrible winters night to a tamper fault on the bell box which you could hardly see because of the snow. I asked the assistant manager if he hand a sweeping brush. He thought i was going to clear the snow on the path for my ladders. Should have seen his face when i twatted the delta bell with the brush loosening all the snow that had blown in the vent causing high resistance.

Part finished new install- &

invert your l bracket

So just wanted to update and wrap up this. Thanks to all the help and pointers, I updated the wiring as explained above, this afternoon, and all is working fine. No unexpected issues and alarm appears to be working just fine. Thank you all! nate

https://www.mtecc.co.uk/products/MFLEX-tm-CLASSIC-BLUE-TAG-p445270276

Allot has changed since your release.... Eagle is same tho, I think...

You are not reading what he typed correctly he typed "with the panel and sensors pulling 0.55 A" Now there was no mention of mA so 0.55A no matter how you try to dress that up is slightly over half an amp. He may have made a mistake but either way what he typed is 0.55A not 0.055A which would be 55mA

Thats half an amp in my book

pizeo's vibrate, thrips / thunder bugs or whatever climb inside stuff & don;t vibrate no more...

So you've proven the wiring and that it's likely the programming... Yes, you should always default them from new.

I came here just to read an 8 year old thread update, lol

Therapy session... A suspended floor is normally an old house with little walls under the joists ? Old as in Victorian or Edwardian, if you've not seen the floor boards yet, don't be surprised to find they're been smashed to feck by new fangled inventions like internal plumbing, central heating or 3 different electrical installations.

Of course..... Lol

Hkc have them, some are not impressed with pic quality But it will do for quick snap shot Do main CCTV outside instead

Yes

Grade of system is grade 1 lowest grade 4 highest Also a 4g router will fail in a mains failure leaving you with no comms

Im not a fan of either but I hear less people complaining about the Texecom app going down on the FB forums

The maint money keeps an alarm co. in business Whats the maint cost £100+vat a year ? Everything from a co. will be grade 2 You'll only get a Grade 3 wired alarm. Anything more than an app with need maint + mon Pyronx app has annual fee, which is why its better than the other 2 I use. A co. may not wish to provide an app with no maint fee

Try local independent installer if possible, your paying *£2640* assume no vat reclaim either Access to keep cables apart is main issue , depends how much your house you want taken apart Or is apart currently already?

You can but its not recommended Price for what your getting sounds a little expensive, but there are a few unknowns like parking and any other misc charges.

I would suggest that is the panel, its not one I have seen before but I would think that is it.

You mean size and standby time or the diagnostics?

The classics can't do silent part set. Would need a hi lo sounder with a volume adjustment or upgraded panel. I assuming not rf

I'd assume the Eaton tags to be more robust case wise than random ebay ones...

maybe, anything listed as galaxy, gardtec ect... will probally work, unless your buying 100's it a bit pointless

Close.... I got high Vis on

Morrisons is a bit posh for up here... Heron or Farmfoods maybe?

Evening all. I have yet another question regarding my newly installed Premier Elite control panel. Question is, how do I program a particular zone to be timed when in part set ? I think I have managed to set the zones I want to be on or off when the system is part set, but I cannot find any option that allows me to program a zone as timed when part set, I can only find either on or off options. Regards, Dave.

Thank you. (I don't have the wiring instructions, this kit came to me as previously used)

Like most sounders the Twin alert manual has the wiring instructions for different manufacturers. Aux Tamp / Aux Tamp / Bell / Spk- / 0V / +12V

As JW stated the charging rate is in the standard. Larger premier panels have a charging rate selection jumper so you can adjust the rate depending on the battery and make sure it conforms.

So I'm thinking this low measurement could be due to voltage drop on the connecting leads (which could amount to a few tenths of a volt at that current). The panel will only measure voltage at the board during a load test.. Next step is to check voltage at the actual terminals of the battery.

Yep I'd also assume the PIR's are in Auto and sleeping. Door contacts shouldn't do that unless you have programmed them incorrectly. They default to always awake.

Two things of note here, if your panel is pulling over half an amp quiescent that seems quite high to me and also if your new battery is dropping to 12v under load I would suggest its not a good battery.

cqr used to have clear plastic & you could see them inside I use to find them inside cables upto 1m or so, I reckon they crawled in, & each time one crawled in behind the they;d move up more ? battery in sounder will last 2yrs or 20 yrs....

Pretty standard yep.

just snip them individually that way you will know what colour goes where when you put it back/replace it. No need to down power completely just be aware the alarm will tamper

It puts more load on the psu it pulls more current than the psu is designed to provide, and eventually burns out the charging circuit

Nice... jpg

Yes thats called back focusing

Every fire years in an intruder alarm Every 4 years in a fire alarm Unless they fail earlier...

As above But battery can sometimes prematurely die , might be example in a loft where I seen them die quicker , or sometimes boiler room and so on Yes load test , try it But you might be running all wireless aswell?

Fish fingers with toy

yeah dont use them anymore but when i did, strip in the normal way (leaving some insulation to twist tight) then wrap around a 2.5mm terminal driver, remove screw and washer and push through loop of cable making sure to keep so when it tightens it doesnt loosen the coil.

Don't use them any more, more modern styles have PCB mounted sprung terminals and most things are wired FSL/EOL now. You should remove enough isolation from the conductors to do a half turn around the screw. Wrap the conductor with the 7 strands twisted up together, clockwise to make a half turn around the screw. The washer is to trap the reed conductors securely, I have always gone under the washer but I would imagine it's designed to be between.

Been given 2 of these, both new but tatty boxes Before I consider them as WEEE I thought I'd document them for the nerds here. Didn't find much info on them from searching.

You'll take it all apart and it will likely (if working correctly) make noise until you have finished or until the noise pollution timer kicks in. There is no magic disable button or menu that makes it easy to disable, back doors like that could be exploited.

Hello I use to work for Maxim Alarms and use to install these systems they use to have a six volt battery in that bell cover and a piece of plastic capping coming down the wall to a toke lock in a box where we’re you would set they alarm