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Agreed, we were quite conservative with the www with our two kids, both of them were avid readers and not really into gaming etc. No phones until they were at high school, James had an ipod thing but even that was closely monitored by us. Both were taught about the obvious dangers of the www. I remember looking thorough Jamess search history and he'd been searching for boobs. He was about 12 at the time and was mortified when I spoke to him about it lol. If it was up to me I'd also restrict under 16s and think it's a cesspit for bullying, at least when I went to school the bullying stopped at 3pm.

Allot has changed since your release.... Eagle is same tho, I think...

You are not reading what he typed correctly he typed "with the panel and sensors pulling 0.55 A" Now there was no mention of mA so 0.55A no matter how you try to dress that up is slightly over half an amp. He may have made a mistake but either way what he typed is 0.55A not 0.055A which would be 55mA

Thats half an amp in my book

pizeo's vibrate, thrips / thunder bugs or whatever climb inside stuff & don;t vibrate no more...

So you've proven the wiring and that it's likely the programming... Yes, you should always default them from new.

This is a long shot , but is this possible?

demonic possession, contact your local priest ? Or the sensitivity on the keypad it too high, calibrate / adjust or replace ??

Here's a crazy idea.... why not power down your knacked alarm ?

If you don't want it then get it killed. If you do want it then find someone to. We have a boat load of people and pyronix are to blame for this who do want a security system but spend more at Costa.

nonce ban ? https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/news/2022/04/06/TELEMMGLPICT000058725877_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqhZJ9vnP3TZj6dX4F0Tnhrlt1EhdK4aiwcWMQPYeW9P0.jpeg?imwidth=680 they'd laugh out loud....

I wouldn't of thought a bulb unless halogen would get hot enough quixh enough

Evening all. I have yet another question regarding my newly installed Premier Elite control panel. Question is, how do I program a particular zone to be timed when in part set ? I think I have managed to set the zones I want to be on or off when the system is part set, but I cannot find any option that allows me to program a zone as timed when part set, I can only find either on or off options. Regards, Dave.

It does both. Allowing walk through for Full set and switching to entry for Part sets.

Yep I'd also assume the PIR's are in Auto and sleeping. Door contacts shouldn't do that unless you have programmed them incorrectly. They default to always awake.

Most likely because you are activating the devices just before or during the setting procedure. Wireless devices will go to sleep for a short period after activation to conserve battery life. If you try triggering a device that has not activated recently you should find the system will respond almost immediately.

cqr used to have clear plastic & you could see them inside I use to find them inside cables upto 1m or so, I reckon they crawled in, & each time one crawled in behind the they;d move up more ? battery in sounder will last 2yrs or 20 yrs....

I'm thinking I need to connect 0V from the power supply to SAB Hold, because that's actually the negative power supply to the sounder. Then connect 0 V to to External Bell -, because that seems to be Trig - on the schematic.

Pretty standard yep.

A D B B C T D A S 49

Nice... jpg

Premiers have separate programmable volumes for chime and advisory tones

Yes, they are also really hard to get hold of. You have to send a message in bottle...

Unlikely, if weak WiFi it's not impossible, and remember it's a friend of yours, which you don't live with I say that because usually when you ask lots of questions and try and fault find what someone says , it's not always what they originally said, which misleads what the real problem with audio might be, weak WiFi can cause audio loss, and even a device elsewhere could potentially interfere with audio when WiFi weak, possibly it's a coincidence

As above But battery can sometimes prematurely die , might be example in a loft where I seen them die quicker , or sometimes boiler room and so on Yes load test , try it But you might be running all wireless aswell?

Yuasa rate NP batteries as 5 year service life for use within alarm systems, other manufacturers maybe different. From experience you could get 10 years from a Yuasa one but it's best to swap before it's deteriorating.

There is a normally closed output on the relay too....

Fish fingers with toy

Did you factory default the panel on initial power up?

Ok we waiting...... Lol

Boom you got this...

An induced AC reading of 66.6Vac is one to worry about....

Bear in mind that switch mode psu add what looks like induced ac.id be interested to see what a new psu does. Mine is knacked cos I've overloaded it lots in testing.

Good job

You could try an ACT1313 https://www.actmeters.co.uk/alarm-troubleshooting/1313-12v-spike-suppressor

22.3 on mine

What's opposite it or near it It's time for pictures , don't worry if install is dodgy , so are mine But your saying when no one is near it right , from a distance

So today I managed to work out the puzzle of opening one. I am converting it to 24vDC ordered a 24v heat element, the existing fan seems to work on 24v Ill let you know if Ive saved £600 (parts inc psu cost about £25)

Most external sirens are compatible with each other but using the same brand as the panel will mean the terminals are named the same and you may get better feature compatibility. Regarding PIR's they are the elements within the pyro. A quad has a better sensor and lens arrangement dividing the detection area into four elements that all need to trigger together. For a great explanation I always point to this video. Bear in mind it's only explaining a basic PIR not a Quad. You could buy sensors years ago with twin dual element pyro's side by side. So cheaper here then...

They just want to throw it in and charge extra for the service and batteries. It's sad some of the industry has been going that way... Would be a nice job to wire with the boards up already. Wireless does have it's place but I'd always wire as much as I can. Keypads and Bells are always wired on my systems even if much of the detection is not. Texecom isn't as open to DIY as it was, especially on the Premier stuff. Veritas is a DIY only product now I'd say tho. I would wire a single 8 core to everything, but a single 6 core to everything would likely be fine. I just like having spare pairs for the future. Then see if you can find a company that will use your wiring.

Bell on battery , but I am feeling nervous already

This is the reason you use proper gear. Diy stuff can be disabled but what would you prefer an off switch? Or worse an off code. You have found out that compliant equipment does as it says.

Depends how it's all wired tho, if your going to take time you can disconnect and send power to it via a battery , otherwise as above I guess Keep windows and doors closed that way it doesn't bother you lol

Hi Sixwheeledbeast, Many thanks for the advice. I am more comfortable now I can forget the Scantronic option. I do not intend to try a DIY installation. I do intend to have the cabling in place myself. I took your advice that there is no such thing as cannot. Rather than trying to use the original cables for the three daisy chained sensors, I looked at covering two of the rooms from alternative accessable points. By coming from the loft I can cut through the first floor in cuboards to lay two new sensor positons, leaving just one of the three sensors on the original 6 core. The issue with my semi engineering brickwork was not how to break through them, that's already done. The issue is they seem to be Wi-Fi unfriendly. Sky mesh was a disaster for me. I feel more comfortable now that I can install a wired system with options to Wi-Fi extend if the need arises. Thank you once again.

For work in London you don't really need to provide much more information than say "Battersea" to see if a local provider is willing to offer a price for the job. Its unlikely we have an active poster that supports the location & your preferred manufacturer but a member may be able to provide a recommendation to co. which will look after you. I'm form he North of England & do some commercial work in London, after travel & expenses I think I earn the same money as working at home.... I only do it for the turn over & the look of horror when I say please & thank you to bus drivers & good morning sir to traffic wardens..... ect

Yes they are let's hope a no light one does too. A poorly maintained system should be decommissioned. Get it powered down then it won't be a nuisance to you or your neighbours

Just following up to confirm the alarm didn’t trigger again. The electrical fault has now been fixed and a guy from the alarm company checked the backup battery and it’s fine and didn’t need replaced. Thanks to all the friendly folk on here who give their time to help strangers on the internet (whichever part of these beautiful isles you happen to be from! ). It’s much appreciated.

...Have you seen the shooter, looks the typical American retard. Six fingers per hand, long very thinning hair, no teeth (or very little).

You may be able to change the setting on the alarm by pressing buttons, Which button you press depend on which alarm it is....

PJF, thanks for that. By the way, I'm one of the 'old timers' been at it for 30yrs+, ask your guys if any remember the Model 88, 89 or 91 Tele-Alarm, SID 27s Seismic Detector or 23p PSU (got the paperwork for these!!!!!) magpye