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1animal1

Pyronix Homecontrol+ vs Visonic Powermax vs Texecom

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As long as it's a good quality detector and there are no temperature fluctuations or draughts then a PIR would be OK, however for the difference I would use a DT.

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Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.


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Thanks chaps - I was going to go for the Texecom mirrored quad @ £13 - the DT's appear to be more than double. No issue in paying the extra if it's worth it - I didn't know if the likelyhood of a fault is a lot higher for a quad or not... 

 

I'm also going to have to solder a few wires if utilising the existing cabling - going to solder and heatshrink, any tips before i start.... Gather I would need to test resistance afterwards?

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Fair comment :lol: 

 

The reason for the question was that in reading, DT's for garages appear to be needed for wind/sudden temp changes/rodents & spiders - so with my garage being largely sealed, I wouldn't have thought it was required, but i suppose where your coming from is - better be safe given the menial extra cost

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Any garage with a traditional uninsulated up-and-over garage door should not be considered 'sealed'.

 

If the sensor is to be hard wired (assume it will be one of the few detectors within reach of the panel) then, yes, it should be a DT.


So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands

 

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That's sealed it then - DT it is ....this one will be hard wired facing the door itself, but into the back of the remote panel which will be in the hallway, mounted on the garage wall. ;)

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I remember K band military being a revelation . 


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K band , hands down . 


Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.


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Honeywell iirc

 


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Thanks chaps- is there a specific technique to adjust the MW range?

 

Also - does anyone know if the Texecom DT's come with resistors and also the resistor values required if not? (so i can get them ordered). Or will it be a simple case of a 2K2 across the alarm/tamper and a 4K7 across alarm/alarm terminated at the PIR, as seems to be the standard - each zone (one PIR per zone).

 

My main kit turned up yesterday and included an alarm box and some prox tags too, quite impressed considering they weren't advertised. Had a sneaky hour read through the installation (can only find the Premier Elite 24 guide online as opposed to the 24-W) and quick reference guide (included) - oh my life! This is going to be muchos fun programming :lol: quite looking forward to the challenge once I've got it all hard wired in.

Edited by 1animal1

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The MW usually has a pot to adjust it's easy identifiable. Turn the MW right off and then slowly adjust back on until it covers where you need it.

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Pay attention to the lights on the detector when walk testing, they will tell you if it's PIR or MW that is activating.


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Thanks Norman - gather this will become clear on the PIR instruction leaflet? 

 

I've just ordered a Texecom premier elite DT for this job - after debating over the specs of 4 different DT PIR's on their site...how do you guys choose? pick a favourite and stick with it??

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Follow the instructions in the box for setup.

You should have enough resistors and jumpers in the kit boxes for your installation.

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Most decent installers will monitor false alarms and subsequent root cause, this would then lead to product sourcing.

 

Most others just buy the cheapest...

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Lots of reasons or choice of kit.

I would only use higher quality sensors with sealed optics for example.

 

If you are trying to keep the sensors looking the same then Texecom Elite all look the same wireless and wired so that could be a reason.

 

 

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I guess scale is a key part - if you aren't fitting many (on your own or as a larger company) then your experience will be minimal when compared. 

 

My methodology here in lieu of experience has been exactly as you have said ,six...same looks but also same brand to maintain continuity. I don't know enough to know whether different brands are compatible and how to remedy if they aren't - figure I'll remove that problem from the equation.

 

On another note - how many idiots on Ebay trying to flog Elite remote panels for £200! A child could google that and find the entire range around the £120 mark (guessing a lot less for trade).

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I've just read through the installation notes after having them emailed to me by Texecom (also on the software CD apparently - yet to venture). 

 

It seems a bit of homework is required regarding the zones and the final settings. I have a front door which will have a contact, leading to hallway PIR where the keypad is situated, these would obviously need -Entry/Exit zone type with Access attribute. The rear door which gets used on occasion requires secondary Entry/Exit with Access attribute (PIR in kitchen where this back door leads will be off unless on full arm which will be rare). The rest of the house would be set to Guard with guard attribute - the variable being the zones included in the daytime or night time part arm.

 

It also looks like the zones default to certain parameters when adding Ricochet devices and various other wired additions - gather as long as I keep tabs on these in my plans when programming, there's no great benefit in reassigning them in numerical order (if possible).

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3 hours ago, 1animal1 said:

On another note - how many idiots on Ebay trying to flog Elite remote panels for £200! A child could google that and find the entire range around the £120 mark (guessing a lot less for trade).

 

There a bit meh but I can buy Honeywell sensors via EBay at s much better price than any trade a/c I hold.


Mr:)

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