Rulland Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 Oh yeh, I missed that DD, good point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james.wilson Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 My take is this is DIY. Either answer with valid detail or ignore. I get annoyed with members posting critical content in an area designed for DIY use. Don't say anything would be better. I think its good advice to say xyz is bad as part of a useful answer. But to just be critical is poor in the DIY area imo securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew.brough Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 I can understand that James but equally do you think that when someone posts a project they clearly aren't capable of doing, are likely to spend a ton of cash on something and the end result will be they will make a complete mess of it, potentially damage the kit they bought and waste a ton of time as well that it is kinder to be straight with someone or is it better to just keep quiet and let them walking into a brick wall head first? www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Internal Speaker wired from the SPK terminals will make all the tones set in the Speaker Tones Menu. So this is Entry Exit Chime Alarm covered internally. If you have the Large Keypads you can use the SPK terminals too. If you have two bells the tamper connection is series and the other connections are parallel. The main concern is the current in alarm of your system. It sound like you have a lot of kit and may need a PSU200XP. ONE bell in SAB mode with take upto 500mA in alarm, so this is already a lot for one panel power supply. Use SCB mode on one or even both bells. Also as above if you have neighbours nearby don't enable the squawk option, this makes your external sound quickly on arm/disarm and WILL piss the neighbours off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rulland Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 As above, you could use strobe on full set instead of squawk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zerozero Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 Internal Speaker wired from the SPK terminals will make all the tones set in the Speaker Tones Menu. So this is Entry Exit Chime Alarm covered internally. If you have the Large Keypads you can use the SPK terminals too. If you have two bells the tamper connection is series and the other connections are parallel. The main concern is the current in alarm of your system. It sound like you have a lot of kit and may need a PSU200XP. ONE bell in SAB mode with take upto 500mA in alarm, so this is already a lot for one panel power supply. Use SCB mode on one or even both bells. Also as above if you have neighbours nearby don't enable the squawk option, this makes your external sound quickly on arm/disarm and WILL piss the neighbours off. Thanks for the helpful response SixWheeledBeast. Nearly missed in all the negativity. Really appreciated. Am just trying to plan this stuff in advance but without the kit in front to trial and error, I'm relying on manual and you guys to help me get the plan right. Thanks for your patience. So all internal speakers are equivalent whether attached to board/keypad etc and they will perform the internal alarm/alerting functions. This is what I thought, but wanted to be sure I wasn't missing something. I understand the concern about the load. The box has a 2.5Amp power supply but I'm not sure how I know how much everything will take (is there a way I can find this out?) The system as now finally planned (just finished this final version now) is: Master Box Qty 2 x 12v 7Ah Battery () 1x Battery Splitter (CDA-0001) 1x COM-IP (CEJ-0001) 1x Exodus Fixed 64deg (FT64/4W) 2x Exodus Rate of Rise (RR/4W) 1x Exodus Smoke (OH/4W) 1x Internal Speaker Sounder () 2x Odyssey 5 Bell () 3x PIR QD anti-mask (AMQD) 1x Premier Elite 8XP Expander (CCB-0001) 2x Premier Elite LCDL-P () 1x Wireless Expander (32XP-W) Impaq Contact(garage) 1x Heavy Duty Roller Switch () Keypad(back) 1x Exodus Rate of Rise (RR/4W) 1x Internal Speaker Sounder () Keypad(front) 1x Exodus Smoke (OH/4W) 1x Internal Speaker Sounder () 1x PIR QD anti-mask (AMQD) Wireless 4x Impaq Contact (Impac Contact-W) 9x ImpaqPlus (ImpaqPlus-W) 5x PIR DT (DT-W) 3x PIR QD (QD-PIR) I don't actually need the 8XP right now but I may in the future so want to be sure I can get away with it if I need to (I have only 1 spare zone on the master board zones after all of this which doesn't allow for much flex in future) Does anyone know if this will overload the 2.5A standard PSU in the premier 48 and whether I need the PSU200XP? Sorry I didn't quite follow what you were saying about the SAB / SCB mode on the bells regarding the power requirements. I understand from the manual that it changes whether the bell output applies or removes 0V when alarm but I can't see why this would change the power requirements generally? If I were to use the Texecom bells as specified above are you saying that if I use SCB it would use less power when bell not active? It seems that the wiring is all the same - is there a switch on the bell boxes to say whether to expect SCB or SAB? Thanks to all for the pointer about the squawk. I won't enable that. I just wanted an internal alert when arming/disaming, not an external one. ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datadiffusion Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Yes, please don't have squawk - but as you say if you just want exit tones etc... then the speaker tones will do just that. Can I just ask where the rate of rise detectors are for? I have never felt the need to use one on a domestic, although I don't do fire so sure another member will correct me if I'm talking rollocks. You're in good hands with the Texecom smokes though, I've been using them since ever even thought I didn't use anything else Texecom until recently. Also, if you ever want to be 100% you've not got a false alarm, I would recommend a DT in the garage as well as the contact. Finally, what are your plans to know about how and when the alarm has gone off, if you're not there? So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rulland Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 The scb/sab setting on the sounder governs whether it draws power from the main panel or uses its own battery when it activates. If it uses it's own battery this reduces the current demand on the main system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cybergibbons Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Rate of rise are good in garages and workshops in the home, IMO. I have a blog, some of which is about alarm security and reverse engineering:http://cybergibbons.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zerozero Posted March 31, 2014 Author Share Posted March 31, 2014 Yes, please don't have squawk - but as you say if you just want exit tones etc... then the speaker tones will do just that. Can I just ask where the rate of rise detectors are for? I have never felt the need to use one on a domestic, although I don't do fire so sure another member will correct me if I'm talking rollocks. You're in good hands with the Texecom smokes though, I've been using them since ever even thought I didn't use anything else Texecom until recently. Also, if you ever want to be 100% you've not got a false alarm, I would recommend a DT in the garage as well as the contact. Finally, what are your plans to know about how and when the alarm has gone off, if you're not there? Thanks datadiffusion, I have 2 rate of rise in the attic (one each end of the house) - lots of wood in the attic and electrics and yet most people don't fire alarm their attic space! 1 rate of rise in the garage/workshop (to be) One of those DT (wireless) are destined for the the garage however this isn't going to be phase 1 (initially I am getting basic perimeter, core PIR and key fire detectors in place, then later filling out with everything that I can't afford/justify right now). So I'm interested, why would I be at risk of a false alarm with just a wireless contact sensor in the garage? I would have thought I'd be more likely to just have false alarms with just PIRs (and quads in hostile environments etc)? So yes, I will eventually put a 2400 in there probably to alert me/someone, but for now it will be bells only and I will probably give a trusted neighbor a key and low privilege code if they want it. If the building is on fire, the alarm should draw attention faster than without and if a burgular is brave/stupid enough to break in to an alarmed house and not leggit as soon as the alarm goes off, it is unlikely anything will help. Thats when I call the insurance company The scb/sab setting on the sounder governs whether it draws power from the main panel or uses its own battery when it activates. If it uses it's own battery this reduces the current demand on the main system. Thanks Rulland, Ah, I see that now I've got the Odyssey install manual Thanks. Is the battery built in to the sounder then? I can't see any mention of it in the product description and I'm only planning buying 2 batteries for the control panel itself. Yeah, so I think one on SCB mode makes the most sense as it reduces the volume. The only reason I have 2 bells is an active bell is only 30 quid more than a dummy and it gives a little extra redundancy if someone wants to attack the bell directly. Unlikely but £30 not a bad deal and only a little extra one-off work. Can anyone tell if the kit I'm planning to run then (with 1 bell on SCB) would be ok off of the standard 2.5A PSU? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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