zerozero

System up for 2 days now, with no more blown fuses (only the first one was real) and I am firmer in my belief that it was the initial switch on with batteries and 2 alarm batteries to start charging that tipped it over the edge... The second fuse that I hastily put in while I was worried about the batteries dying on me was 1Amp spare.. damn hard to read the tiny writing on those things. No faults, all tests worked. Thanks again to all for the help and words of warning - I'm sure this made me work with extra care to be sure that everything was right. Now on a soak test to see what happens over a few days without upsetting the neighbours with any false alarms.. fingers crossed

Turned out it had blown the first one due to the high load of having to charge all the batteries and power.. luckily I had a spare 3a 20mm fuse. Then I didn't realise that you had to go into engineer mode twice to get to the actual menu.. I was looking through the log, thinking that these were current actual faults.. Then my multimeter doesn't work with AC (it should but clearly there is a problem there).. so that sent me up another blind alley.. with me thinking that I had an AC failure .. anyway I'm learning! So no wiring faults so far. Now just trying to get my com-ip to work so I don't have to spend hours at the keypad with all that incessant beeping! Thanks again for all the help guys.

It says in the commissioning troubleshooting to check and replace the fuse if blown.. However I think I possibly replaced it with a 1A fuse.. but in the panic and low light I couldn't read the damn thing and I think they only provide 1 3A mains fuse.. It is all off now. The strange thing is that the battery fuse didn't blow...and that is rated at 1.6A.. it just kept on going.. What is the best way to check for shorts - what would the normal resistance going through Aux power devices (specifically fire sensors, bells and speakers) Thanks

So I turned it on. Lots of messages including Battery Fail (which I wasn't expecting as the batt is connected) and AC Mains off.. Connected the mains and it blew the fuse before the PSU.. what could cause this? I replaced the white fuse with a clear one that was in the accessories pack that came with it but this blew also and I'm not sure what to do next as I don't think I have a spare 3.15 A slow blow fuse lying around/ If I disconnect the battery now will the main alarm go off? If so how do I turn the system off to troubleshoot without causing the main bell to go off (test strobe 3 times?) and what should I look for when troubleshooting? Thanks for any help!

Aha that is important. Thanks I will check with multimeter but this is good to know. Thanks James, but sorry if I'm being thick - I still don't understand this. This panel has fuses for both the PSU and the battery, so why would the risk to components be different depending on power source? Was this not the case "in the old days" or is there something else going on that I am not understanding? Thanks to everyone for the suggestions and advice.

I have a com-ip and a 32XP-W, 5 fire detectors, 2 bells (1 LC, 1 SCB) and 1 antimask PIR. I should get 27 hours on a fully charged battery but like I said this is a new battery and I have no idea on how much charge it would have shipped with and will still have now.. I understand swb but I didn't understand the underlying factors beneath the instructions, so I was looking for some experience to tell me why the manufactures would recommend this method. Was just trying to anticipate getting half way through my tests, the battery dying and according to the guide having no where left to go.. not sure what you mean? I can see that the battery side has an electronic PTC 1.6A fuse and the mains has its own glass fuse going into the PSU. Do you mean that if I'm overloaded due to bad wiring I'll blow the glass fuse and would then need to get a replacement - which is what they are trying to prevent (where the battery is automatically resettable)?

So, I am nearly ready to turn my fully cabled up premier elite 48 system on for the first time. It looks like the commissioning procedure in the texecom manual says to turn on and load system defaults only from the battery and then perform all tests only from the battery and as a very final step (if all works ok) then apply the power. Does anyone know why this is and why I cant turn the power on before conducting all the tests? This is a new battery (17ah) and I don't know what the charged state of it might be.. So just checking in case it doesn't have enough juice for all the tests/fix/tests in likely to have as never done this before! Thanks!