Switching Pir To Viper Glx Shock - Wiring Advice - Galaxy G2-20

[sixwheeledbeast]

Damage to the wiring dragging the system voltage down?

You'd have to start by taking the controls apart and doing some tests.

 

[Vini]

The Aux fuse had also blown I forgot to add... it was after replacing the fuse that the ***** started...

 

Do resistors "blow" as such?

 

Given that I cannot "control" the system via the RKP, can I remove the Shock sensor to see if that is the blame?

Edited July 25, 2017 by Vini

[al-yeti]

1 hour ago, Vini said:

The Aux fuse had also blown I forgot to add... it was after replacing the fuse that the ***** started...

 

Do resistors "blow" as such?

 

Given that I cannot "control" the system via the RKP, can I remove the Shock sensor to see if that is the blame?

What was fuse size you replaced it with

[James Vincent]

Yesterday, when this initially happened the RKP was "dead", which is what led me to check the fuses. I replaced the visibly blown Aux fuse with a 500mA. Doing this is what resulted in the RKP showing *************'s and flashing.

 

Tonight, thinking the new fuse/one of the other fuses could be to blame, I swapped them all out. Which resulted in the sounder going off, previously, replacing the fuses one by one was enough to stop the sounder, but not this time. So I've disconnected the battery, pulled all fuses and going to let it run its course... Grrr.

 

The panel feed has a 3A fuse.

F1, has a 1A (Battery)

F2, has a 500mA (Aux)

F3, has a 500mA (Bell)

 

A few years ago I installed a C020, and I remembered that I had a flash cable and RSS software, so I fired that up. I was able to run an RRI, which suggested;

 

Panel AUX Voltage is out of the range or have more than 5% difference to baseline.

 

The audit logs show...

 

 

 

Looking under Keypad/MAX in RSS reveals nothing on either 1/2/3.

 

I'm beginning to think the fitters gone through a wire or something, and tinkering on the IT side of things (resetting it etc), isn't going to help.

 

 

[al-yeti]

Take a cable from panel to keypad see if it works or small capitals let to panel and take keypad near panel lol

[James Vincent]

I've spat the dummy. I'm gonna call an engineer

[GalaxyGuy]

If exiting engineering mode isn't finding Keypad 0, then I agree with al. Put the keypad on a flying lead and hook in to the panel.   If you powered the keypad up after the panel, then the panel will not see the keypad. The keypad needs to be present when the panel scans the bus for devices at power on or engineer 'esc' sequence.

[James Vincent]

Just adding the full RRI, as I noticed it says "the following zones need to have their wiring checked", wondered if that gave any clues?

 

The ONLY zone to be touched during the window replacement was 1004, I'm contemplating removing that from the panel.

 

 

 

 

[James Vincent]

Ok, had some food and gathered my toys.

 

Removing 1004 results in a working Panel.

 

My non-technical conclusion can only mean the wires have been damaged during the window replacement. I'll re-wire, re-install new resistors and double check. Failing that at least I know I can rip out the wiring and get back to a working state!

 

If all else fails, I can replace the sensor with a wireless one.

Edited July 25, 2017 by James Vincent

[al-yeti]

7 hours ago, Vini said:

We've just had new Windows fitted, which resulted in this particular Viper GLX being disconnected... I've returned to found the Remote Keypad flashing with *******************'s across the screen, the keypad beeps on keypress, but does nothing else.

 

Power cycling the G2 results in the panel starting up with a long beep (until keypress) and the screen returning to flashing *******************'s...

 

Any ideas?

So back to where you started