datadiffusion

I see they've gone 180 again to start using outside NTEs on new-build again after they had to start removing them all (or relegating them to bulky ugly junction boxes) the first time around. https://www.run-it-direct.co.uk/blog/bt-openreach-external-nte-xnte-6.php < back in 2016

And BT Openreach are no exception to this. But hey. Love the new logo! https://www.campaignlive.co.uk/article/bt-mocked-generic-brand-logo/1584953

Nah as I say I suspect an 8 zone wireless expander all for one active zone Zone 9 being the contact housing case and bridged/disabled built in reed switch Zone 10 being an external FSL contact wired to the above Just me guessing assuming it's like Scanny would handle it

Hi and welcome, but, er this topic is an eye watering 16 years old. Back in 2003... I was still working in London with possibly no idea of my impending and rapid fall from grace. Mark & Lard were still making us down tools with their banter on Radio 1 No-one gave a shite about the EU AlanP is no longer a member, probably for at least 15 of those 16 years. I mean for all we know he could be dead. Maybe he's dead and we've yet to discover the body? Anyway, you get the idea. Topic locked

Nah that'll be removal to fleebay!

Be interesting to hear what it was (or, what they tell you, which may be more elightening...)

Go to keypad, go to Walk test, I can't remember how Texe works but will it let you scroll through a list of zones, tell us what Zones 9 and more importantly Zone 10 say as description (plus open front door and see what comes up during test) Again, limited experience with Texe but is it possible Zone 9 is the door sensor housing and unused built in reed, and Zone 10 is an external contact?

I assume he means what the installer has written in the manual as a zone list The OP later clarified 'UNLS' as 'WLS' which I assume means wireless, e.g. a wireless expander, that includes the mysterious Zone 10

Go into Walk test mode (I am assuming you DONT have engineer codes?) and work out what all the zones are, and see if anything triggers Zone 10 The comment for 9-16 regards an wireless (WLS??) expander (EXP), so I wonder if you have a wireless door contact or PIR that is slowing up or has a reed switch stuck, or is faulty still?

Dear boss, please don't bump 18 day old threads

Maybe, but a 30R will even cheaper, it even fits in the same case (CHANGE THE PSU ITS A DIFFERENT VOLTAGE!) and you'll be able to keep literally everything else. (That said the outer case is exactly the same and as it sounds as if there is zero wired apart from the keypad probably better just swapping the box over) http://www.touchpoint-online.com/content/i-on30r Better yet it'll come with the cloud so have an app for the alarm and can log in remotely to disable any problem sensors... Something isn't right, I really do suspect the bellbox batteries didn't need changing, unless it really has been going off, a LOT, or the unit was sat in sparkys store for years...

Sounds odd, because if batteries are changed annually none of this should be happening, except, if it is a supervision alarm only, which tbh also shouldn't be happening on a professional installation. And to be absolutely honest with quality batteries it should be a 2 yearly event without problems. And although I don't use the wireless bells, 2 years seems really short for them, they are made up of 4 'D' cells. The ion16 isn't a great panel compared to the rest of the range as it cannot be upgraded; however, a 2016 panel should easily have firmware new enough to have the no keypad alerts option (which may be why you're missing the battery alerts before they go totally flat), but this would require an engineer to enable it. However, I don't know if it will be new enough to have supervision as fault rather than tamper - I really don't know as the only one I have is my old demo panel and thats ancient firmware. It all sounds a bit odd. Is it a large firm that installed it or an electrician etc...?

Clearly never been properly serviced then, but as usual the kit gets the blame. Which sensors do they have, motion ones in the corner of the room, or door sensors that are small and oblong, or both?

Glad you got it sorted. I've just realised that it could well be that the registration of apps on 'non-cloud account' panels is actually, permanently broken?? Unless someone has diligently tested it, no doubt they would have only tried using their test Cloud ID which I assume was the point it all started working for you. I know that they moved servers recently and highly suspect that the non-cloud registration mode might be hard coded to a now non-existant IP? As I say I've never had cause to use that mode as the installer registered 'engineering UDL' so to speak it is the biggest USP of the panel for me. Especially when the check for update DOES work, whenever I've had issues it would always be every single function that reports network error, as you'd expect, I think it was due to not refreshing DHCP DNS before the fix, which was why new routers were catching them out, especially when BT moved from the 255 range to the 1. Just in case anyone is wondering, the red section isn't duffers its a reasonable amount of pre-registered panels just in case they do start to charge next year

Whats that bit you've blurred out - that's where my installer number would appear! You should not have to open any ports for it to work. I've installed this system on all sorts of setups from IT company office 'lockdown nightmare' to granny with Post Office Broadband (who somehow totally BLOCK TeamViewer at ISP level FFS) and the only time I've had that network issue at the first ever cloud connect time issue it's been resolved by a restart (and has never come back), and hasn't happened at all recently. In the log, does this error show up and does it also have a number attatched? I agree the basic manual is a bit pants, but, in the full engineering manual there IS a long appendix with every single IP error code including some quite obscure SSL ones for example which will only show as 'Email error' on the keypad but quite specific on the log when you look it up. That's been very helpful in the past with emails, though with the lastest software this again shouldn't be an issue as emails are now sent by the cloud server end, at last, though also makes me think Eaton are gearing up to start charging... Just out of interest have you restarted your router? I do wonder if you've ended up with some kind of 'end user' version of Eaton Cloud given the text in that FAQ link, hence the lack of Cloud ID number. Whilst that shouldn't be an issue, as such, it's not something I'm familiar with.

Did you flash up to latest language version at the same time? 5.02 44 needs 5.17 language, it should be in the same zip file as the firmware, the update prog will allow language only update. Really confused by your issue, I've only ever had it historically when a customer changed router (even on dhcp) and was fixed by a restart though that issue has now been long fixed by Eaton. So surprised you're getting it after a restart. Try this; go to manual ip settings and fill out with the correct details, then see if it works.

Latest firmware? (by USB if you need to)

I imagine protected in loading bay or similar? Looks good

Yep, or 'phone no.' as they literally put it

And if you do swaps don't forget to change the unit ID Shame it's digital as Fermax do a brilliant 'universal' unit (model 3399) that replaces about 500 different analogue makes, never had to visit the same job twice

I guess loose wires are yourself? It'll probably be the big green handset switch causing the issue, as usually the unit will not ring if 'off hook'. However it appears to be some sort of digital unit so could be anything

Frankly I would upgrade to an i-On 40H from Eaton (new name for Scantronic / Cooper), it'll be familiar to you and you can keep everything else other than the keypad, that way you'll get the free cloud app and forget this old fashioned dialler tat

21CN still shouldn't interfere with single digit DTMF though?

Have you checked the programming to see if it has lost it's settings? Is it brand new or 2nd hand?

Its the BEST detector