sixwheeledbeast

I would argue they can't without the sounders being low current types. It doesn't matter how many outputs a control panel has, the supply can only provide a certain load (this isn't just sounders this is the whole system BTW). A panel could run overloaded for a while before it gives up prematurely. Maybe see what other people suggest.

Far too many question marks to work out where your questions are, but I'll try and help answer... I would say Shutter contact and DT. I don't fit Honeywell controls as standard. I'd use a Texecom external prox reader for this type of thing. Tag on your garage keys, swipe the tag, open the garage and park up, could do similar on the way out too with correct programming. I don't really rate apps myself. When it comes to your bike is it the right solution? Think about having to pull up, find your phone in your leathers, take your gloves off, find the app, disarm, put your phone back etc.. I would say separate system would be better for redundancy This sounds like far too much kit for one panels PSU. Are you definitely looking to DIY? This seems a large project for a your standard DIYer, lots to learn and trip up on along the way.

You would not be able to use standard passive IR, possibly external type (like Redwall's) but from what you say about the movement in the sides it's a bad idea. Passive IR detects changes in temperature moving ideally across or within its beam pattern, movement of the device itself would likely cause an alarm due to this. Mounting any detection device would need to be solid. The Active IR beams I suggest have a transmit and receive which need line of sight. Poles could be mounted or driven into the ground in the corners, beams could be mounted to these in a staggered pattern. Alternatively there are all in one tower units that are designed to be free standing.

4 hours to repair the system is mandatory requirement for approved systems. This isn't police response time.

A good few times, we are in the trade and are on call 24 hours for this type of thing. Could you get somebody to respond to your system within 4 hours 24/7 365 and repair it? https://www.nsi.org.uk/information-centre/information-for-businesses/police-policy 999 an alarm system in this way is against regulations no matter how much value for money you think it is. Personally I see it no better than a speech dialler, which has no subscription fees and less to go wrong.

Nobody is pointing fingers at anyone, we are just explaining it's limitations and why it is not considered monitoring. So what use is them talking to you? £15p/m for them to let you know you have set your alarm off accidentally? Are you saying you have this type of system without it being serviced and with no bellbox, I honestly don't see the value for money.

I wouldn't call that sort of thing monitoring... Monitoring has polling (well test calls on a digi).

Yep, Active IR beams covering inside the perimeter would be my first thought without seeing the job.

TBH if there is no money in the job, isolation is best for everyone. An unmaintained system is just a neighbour annoyer in the long run.

If I came to this as a job I would be quoting for new controls and bell minimum. The time spent messing about with a probably unmaintained 20+ year old budget panel thats showing signs of ageing is not productive to anyone.

Sold Out

I thought a AG6 was the cheap go to DIY box...?

Sorry we do not share defaulting information or engineers manuals here as per our guidelines.

Breakglass is not ideal detection. Settings on the tester should allow you to check flex and smash. Are you using the setting where you tap the surface with the tester and the smash follows?

Ding!

I believed it to be 5 posts, unless it's pulled from gravatar facetwit login etc.

I agree also signalling line fault at the controls helps, but not infallible due to only testing line voltage and not polling the line regularly.

Contact your installer and have your new router set up again. The error is a warning to say its not polling the server.

Smallest size bootlace would be 0.5. You wouldn't bootlace solid core data as its designed for IDC's

A quick dab on the battery yer. Wired up permanently no

Possibly blown something then. Speakers aren't designed to pass DC and AUX output isn't designed to take a short. Check AUX voltages with meter and find another loudspeaker of the same impedance to test the output.

A "loudspeaker" should be wired into loudspeaker terminals and have a resistance of between 8-32ohms if tested on it's leads only depending on the speaker and panel.

Do you have anything wired in speaker terminals? If there is a built in speaker meter the resistance on it's leads to see if its ok, do the same if you have fitted one separately.

If I Remember Correctly

But why did the circuits not operate? Is the expander powered from the same PSU?