PeterJames

qfa

Is the exit terminate button actually wired in? They havent been a requirement for some time now, and if the monitoring was removed at any time the ET button was possibly disconnected at the same time. Try setting the alarm without using the ET if it sets then you have your answer

You need to prove competency for electrical works if you're going to fit spurs. You can get that from Tavcom too. You can plug in a burglar alarm BS EN50131 allows that.

Hi David Learning to install alarms is not quite as simple as most people think, a few weeks in the classroom wont really give you the understanding the standards. Mainly because the standards keep changing. If you want to just install burglar alarms and are not bothered about Police response then just do a course like Tavcom, this wont really teach you about actual manufacturers products but it will teach you about the items and the principles. If you really want to learn then the only way is to work for someone for a a couple of years get some experience and understanding. Engineers that have worked for me for 5 years or more are still learning now.

never watched it

Ive upgraded you Kyle just bear in mind how quick I sorted your trade application next time Im in ordering my Zinger Tower Meal

AC doesnt have the current drop that DC has, so it works better over distances

How old is the fob? Everything indicates that its the fob. Maybe buy a battery for fob one and replace it perhaps ? Flashing when pressed BTW

Easy check would be to down power three cameras and see if one works properly. Those cheapo kits on ebay are not really built to last though, 14 months is a good two month past the warranty period so you did quite well.

I applied for a job and got it, it wasnt what I originally set out to to do, I spent my time in college learning electronics and after being made redundant in my first job R&D for an electronic co I spent some time as a postman. I then started my first business which I dissolved before it went bang due to the depression in the 80's and took a job in a plastic factory. I saw a job advertised for security engineer and took it, I could back then find a fault at component level and repair PCBs but I couldnt now the components are much smaller. I used to fix TV's and stuff all the time, nobody ever does that nowadays its far more expensive to pay a man four a couple of hours compared to the price of a new one.

So what happens when it rains does the car get wet?

the glass looks really clean

The first line was sarcasm sorry Its my sense of humour a bit dry for some people no offence intended

A keypad outside the protected area is always a good idea, if you make sure that its well warn on the numbers that make up your code. Really it all depends on the risk, I am guessing you havent got anything worth protecting, otherwise you wouldnt be here you would be having a proper alarm installed. Which means the type of burglar that will target you would most likely be an opportunist and not someone that has spent time watching you come and go and planned the heist of the century. So yes putting a keypad outside the protected area will work for you, but keep it clean, and bear in mind its not recommended.

Changing the wiring is not that hard, remove wires from zone three fit link, remove one wire from zone one join it to one of the wires removed from zone 3, put the other wire from zone three in the vacant hole of zone one. This will do what you want but, if you have a false alarm on zone one you will never know what detector caused it

LOL

May I extend my sincere condolences... Welcome to TSI

If HKC is available to the public it is certainly isnt cheap. HKC Tech support are not willing to talk to people that have seen a picture of an alarm system and think they cold get a job on the side subbying for ADT

Hi and welcome, and just so you know, we all love your chicken here.

Not in the op's budget they dont, by the time he has purchase either kit it would have been cheaper to get the pro co in. Also I know HKC would be trade only, not sure about Honeywell.

How draughty is the garage? You could go down the wireless route but the only come with passive infra red motion detectors, for hostile areas such as garages I would always advise dual technology which are only available as hard wired. If you are thinking DIY why dont you buy a couple of dual technology detectors and hard wire them into the existing panel yourself? This would be far more reliable than a cheapo diy wireless bit of tat

£380.00 is very reasonable, assuming that the installer is decent. Your maintenance contract will not just be about the service visit either, if you have a problem at silly o clock in the morning like you bell ringing and you cant stop it, you would phone your alarm co and someone will be there. It cost me more more than you pay in year per week to provide that service for my customers.

Two circuits not one, so you would have to experiment with joining two pairs of wires. But even once you have worked out which two pairs and joined them, it is unlikely that the system will set, the panel is normally waiting to see you go out by opening and closing the door when your setting. You may be lucky and the the system maybe programmed as timed set, but even then when you come back in the door would normally start the entry timer. So any detectors after the door will cause an immediate alarm, because the alarm has not seen the entry door open so thinks you have broken in. So the door contact ideally needs to be replaced.

Did you ask the garage door man if he could do the door contacts? Its a fairly basic system no eol's . It does looks like the battery was changed a couple of years ago, so I assume someone serviced it then? So cant you ask them? Most co's would want to change the panel, it is quite old, the problem you have when it comes to adding a couple of bells is warranty issues when the panel goes down and takes the new bells with it.

my money would be on the PSU