PeterJames
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Posts posted by PeterJames
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On 22/03/2023 at 19:19, MrHappy said:
can you sit down again ?
On 22/03/2023 at 20:42, norman said:Just
And you boys take the p out of me because I come from Brighton
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15 hours ago, MrHappy said:
wow, skip fodder, from memory ?
Black light compensation
Not sure if that was a typo, Its back light compensation as the name suggest it adjusts the iris to compensate for backlight when the camera is looking at an area that will have a lot of light like entrance doors etc.
DN digital noise
ALC/ELC is whether the lens is controlled by the lense or the camera
Auto light conditions/ Electronic light condition
BS not sure
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23 minutes ago, MrHappy said:
do you call it the Mesothelioma Mansion ?
Nah its Firkum Hall
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19 hours ago, MrHappy said:
aertex ?
floor tiles ?
guttering / fall pipes ?
garage roof ?
Soffits, boards between the garage and house and Artex
I think the chimney may be lined as well
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22 minutes ago, MrHappy said:
Used to everywhere-
My new house was built in the 70's (its a bit like living in an Austin Allegro, the doors have come off a few times) but it is its full of Asbestos,
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I had an apprentice leave because he refused to test smoke detectors where the ceilings had asbestos stickers after the engineer he was working with told him there was no danger. I had done the UKATA with him and we provided PPE but whats the danger?
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18 hours ago, jj71 said:
Thanks for the advice. I guess my frustration is that I (probably) have a working system, but I just can't access it, and that I need a contract or call-out fee to reset it now and in the future (I'm assuming here that it does work of course). I was wondering if there's a way to avoid the on-going cost for a working system.
Cheers.I get it, you purchased a house with a burglar alarm and thats what you expected to get. Instead you got a house with a faulty burglar alarm, I feel your pain I just purchased a house with solar water and electric and a few weeks in the solar water stopped working. Thats the way the cookie crumbles I supposed, you pays your money and you takes your chances.
Im fairly handy and no engineering codes are required to fix it. I will be paying someone else to fix it though, I understand my limitations and I know that I can earn more money doing what I do, than I can save trying to fix it myself. Plus not fixing it properly will work out far more expensive.
So when did you buy the house?
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The cheapest best option: You may well find a company that are willing to default and re program the alarm for you, Banhams have quoted you a non-contract callout charge ( we charge the same) £25 pcm for maint is a bit steep our annual fee starts at £90.00 pa.
If you want something you can look after yourself with no service then there is plenty of DIY tat on Amazon.
As SWB decommissioning the Meridian is not the easiest of tasks if you dont know what your doing, you would need a ladder to get to the bell, and ideally to have a good understanding of electronics the stobe can give you a shock if you are not careful.
You have a working alarm system installed by a pro company, so most likely a proper system that will work as its supposed to if the worst should happen (assuming you have set it) in your shoes I would work with what you have, so phone around some smaller co's (I recommend you use an accredited company NSI or SSIAB)
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Theres a couple of flats on Brighton seafront with ultrasonics. IIRC one of them has them flushed into the wall which I thought was particularly cool
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No point in getting excited, none of us are as famous as Gary Glitter , but welcome
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25 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:
I would prefer to re-use the wiring if the installation and it's wiring looks decent.
Wireless varies greatly based on manufacturer, all devices being "two-way" or "mesh" are the key things. No point in sending wireless messages and not knowing if they arrive.
You have to factor in wireless kit is more expensive and ongoing maintenance will be more expensive due to battery replacements.
I wouldn't necessarily be put off by a rewire if required. With a decent experienced engineer and depending on the property intruder rewiring can often be done with minimal disruption.
Agreed wired is always better if the wiring is good, the existing detectors, contacts ect can also be utilised. You are only really looking at a panel change. But I would recommend that you consider a service agreement. It will ensure your system lasts, and doesnt let you down.
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When did you last replace the battery ? Believe it or no false alarms are not always down to the detectors
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Agreed with above, if the new replacement battery is only showing 7v then its not getting charged. Assuming that the replacement was new. The battery should be replaced every four years.
The problem with not replacing it is that it will degrade, and as it does it makes the charging circuit on the panel work harder, and the longer it works harder the more damage that is caused, after a while it is no longer charging.
So even replacing that old battery with a new one wont fix, it as the panel wont charge your new battery.
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4 hours ago, JtotheD said:
Yes, you’re right, it probably is unfair for a blanket statement as I am sure it’s not all installers. Unfortunately it leaves a bad taste when you take time to select an installer and then get treated like this. I certainly will be on the lookout for a new company who can service the existing alarm.
How did you select your installer? Most installers I know would not sell a system without a contract, why put your name to something that makes a lot of noise, if you are not going to make sure it doesnt become a nuisance.
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Bills like what? Corporation tax? and VAT returns? Not sure that I would want to be doing what my accountant does for me, Im sure its probably not that hard, but if you make a mistake it would have expensive results. Do you have a bookkeeper?
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What lights are on? Do the detectors light up as you move in front of them? When was it last serviced?
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Do you have a multi meter? what happens if you boot on battery only?
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8 hours ago, james.wilson said:
Alarm companies carry the liability for your system, thats why its locked. If you waive this then you may find a company that will allow it.
Bear in mind you could change something that you think is a good idea that could prevent correct operation or make it non compliant.
QFA it wouldnt be a very secure security system if it was open for anyone to change the settings would it. You could buy a diy system if you wanted something that you could change yourself. It all depends on how bothered you are about it working if there was a breakin which is sort of the point in the first place
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Hi and welcome
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We carry all the test gear smoke and heat poles, MCP keys and all the basic kit you cannot get locally, stuff like addressable detectors, sounders, software and leads for laptops to panels ect. Most electrical factors will have stuff like series 65 or standard MCP., we still carry a limited amount of standard along with lots of batteries.
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There are several camera protocols out there HDCVI AHD POC standard analogue, most recorders are able to work with any encode method but you need to choose the correct encode in the settings of the recorder. Auto encode rarely works.
Start by removing all the cameras from the recorder down power all cameras but one and plug that one camera in the recorder, go to the encode settings and try each encode setting one by one till it works, then add each camera one by one using the same settings as the first. It may seem long winded but trust me if you try and short cut it will take longer.
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They will only work with a "2G only" SIM good luck with finding one though, most new SIMs are 3G or 4g with 2G onboard they wont work no matter what you do. You may get lucky and find a phone shop with really old stock, I couldnt when one of my customers needed to change his SIM in his GSM entryphone system
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Its a white box about A4 with a red light on it could be in a cupboard or in the loft follow the wires from the detectors
Scantronic 9651 Low battery
in Guest Forum
Posted
iirc scantronic have an electronic fuse for charging, try down powering and powering back up, bear in mind your battery is probably flat now anyway.
If your previous battery was over 4 years old chances are the charging circuit was already on its way out.
Ideally you need a multimeter to check whats going on, without one your like a blind man without his white stick