PeterJames
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Posts posted by PeterJames
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Hi and Welcome
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Not sure what your point is but if you turn the MW down to the minimum it will see 5 metres (again regardless of walls floors or ceilings)
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Just now, Kenneth Volt said:
The OP has actually tested the MW in thinner walls and the MW did not see past them. Alas, they can be regulated and they should be regulated.
Thanks for all your input guys.
If the DT says it will see 15 metres thats how far it sees regardless of walls thats how RADAR Doppler works.
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3 minutes ago, Kenneth Volt said:
Exactly what I said
My point is if you use PIR instead of DT you can point them at the windows and they wont fa if someone walks past but will pick up an intruder much quicker.
I dont understand why you are installing G3 kit either
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15 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:
I'd spec Optex quads
Exactly what I would recomend, why install DTs its not needed its like using a tractor for your daily commute. It will get you there but slowly The op is already thinking his concrete walls are 15 metres thick, and mw wont see through them
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MW will see through the windows and walls the PIR wont
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2 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:
I disagree. I honestly thought you were trolling...
Yes you have to tune the microwave correctly but they are all pointing into your own property if positioned correctly.
No idea with the Honeywell listed but all the DT's I fit are also Quads, worth checking yes. As you say no point in a DT with one of the technologies always active.
We'll have to agree to disagree there is absolutely no advantages to fit DT's in a dwelling. Especially so in a flat.
Definitely not trolling, it is something I would not do, without good reason.
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What floor are you on? It looks a nice flat layout I guess the value of the contents are high as you are going a little ott on a diy project.
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I would swerve the G3 contacts too, G3 is not necessarily any more secure but they are far more sensitive and will give you more trouble especially with metal doors that can become magnetised over time
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Id point the detectors at the windows rather than away from. They will activate much quicker when someone comes in.
Dual techs are not a good idea for domestics they are designed for hostile areas. These detectors normally come with a standard pir which are not as good as a decent quad element. The thought is they dont need a decent pir because the use a dual detection system. but because the microwave will see through walls ceilings and floors if not set up correctly they will give you problems especially in a flat where you have neighbours from all sides (another good reason to point them at the windows)
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1 hour ago, MrHappy said:
I ate fruit this week....
one of your 5 a day?
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4 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:
It seems places that fit it deal with Risco direct, fit Risco everything and wear Risco underwear...
I know a co that loves Risco the MD would definately wear Risco budgie smugglers if they made them, he is a bit strange
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Most good alarm companies wont need the engineers code. It is a lazy way to take on a system, the new company should be defaulting the system and reprogramming it from scratch and a Veritas is not that big a system so should not take 20 mins to default and re-program. Defaulting and reprogramming is the only way to ensure that the system they are taking on is programed as it should be, and it is their own interest to do this as if it fails to perform they could be liable
Alternately you can ask ADT to default just the engineers code, but they are entitled to charge for their time
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1 hour ago, al-yeti said:
You know they still won't attend unless call out paid for in advance ???
and they turn up and say sorry we can't deal with it
The stuff seems to work from new as so much of it still goes in, but after that I think most subs stop paying for repairs and it makes things worse
I thought it was only me that did that
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11 hours ago, Ubermik said:
What heretical insanity is that?
Sorry I thought you said you were working in the alarm industry
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19 hours ago, Ubermik said:
Meh, give it another 30 or 40 years and I should have the hang of it, I am blond after all
Maybe work more days rather an just Wednesdays
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10 hours ago, Blake said:
Having trouble getting an engineer no-one getting back to us.
Dont mention te words Risco when you call
Search here using your postcode https://www.nsi.org.uk/company-finder/
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Hi and welcome
I work four days a week including Wednesdays but we dont fit Pyronix or Hik if we can help it
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1
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Thats an intruder alarm not a CCTV system
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I dont think you can bend alli tubing much the only bends I can find are these https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/cctv-c-1/cctv-ancillaries-c-1_3/secware-aluminium-tubing-12mm-single-elbow-p-6071.html
45
degrees is a bit of a strange angle for running alli tubing though its a bit tight squeezing/pulling a cable through it too?
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4 hours ago, MrHappy said:
Most things are off the shelf stuff by the cheapest provider.
So many people think that cheap trumps quality, and sadly those that understand quality works out cheaper in the long run are a dying breed.
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1 hour ago, Bad-Yeti said:
You're not wrong there.
1 hour ago, Bad-Yeti said:
I'm not sure what you mean about the I/O being unmonitored, could you elaborate please?
There are not many installers here that trust Pyronix to prop a door open so lots of us wont know if the fuses are monitored integral or glass.
I assume that it the fuses were glass its the first thing you would have checked. By your answer we can assume that the fuses are not monitored.
If its an integral fuse then you need to down power the system mains and battery so that the fuse can reset.
Other than that who knows? Wiring into the zone circuit should not effect the output circuits.
The next place to start is to disconnect all the sounders test them individually and then add them back on to the panel and test them.
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36 minutes ago, NoTimeToFly said:
Hi
I have recently moved into a property in Scotland which seems to have one of these.
It was marketed as being non- operational and essentially isn’t. No control panel, PIRs or evidence of a system apart from a few old door contact switches on the conservatory and garage door, but, the main panel under the stairs as in this photo is present and is still clicking away, chirping and in the evenings sounds like a siren is being emitted. It’s not an actual loud sound. It’s as if another house has an alarm activated a few streets away. It’s very quiet but I heard it almost straight away in the kitchen when moving in and thought it was one of the kids toys in a box somewhere.
The previous owner states it was de-activated c1995 when she moved into the house. But it’s clearly still plumbed in and chirping away.
What should I do with it?
Its a bit difficult to advise, if you,re brave you can remove the fuse in the spur to the right open the panel and dis the battery. But if there is an external sounder with a battery in it you may be opening a can of worms. That panel was installed pre bell timers so the external sounder could ring indefinitely. If your not so brave call an alarm company to decommission it properly or replace it with something suitable
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who knows what the yellow and blue are for just connect the red and black up to 12VDC and see what happens if nothing happens add the yellow to the 0v if still nothing happens try the blue. I would say it must have come with instructions take a look at them
degrees is a bit of a strange angle for running alli tubing though its a bit tight squeezing/pulling a cable through it too?
Suggestions for new Intrusion System
in !!..DIY Installers..!!
Posted
Before this topic gets any further out of hand:
OP you have obviously done some sort of research on this subject or you work in insurance or worse you work for the MoD (Though I doubt its the latter as you would not be using Texecom)
Most people think that using G3 components is some how better than using G2 in the same respect that £30.00 is better than £20.00, and in theory you would be correct.
However, its horses for courses, you have to look at the complete picture. For example a MoD site holds secrets and designs of equipment that they would not want foreign spys to get their hands on. Spys will try lots of things including bribing or blackmailing, and this means the alarm has to be setup in a way that even the alarm engineer that installed it cant get around it, let alone the people that work there, its a similar story for banks and high class jewellers.
The difference between a G3 system is not that it is necessarily any more secure, what it is is more sensitive. Door contacts have to be aligned correctly, detectors have to be positioned so that they cannot be accidentally masked ect ect.
There are rules to installing a G3 system and a diy system using G3 components will never be a G3 system it will be a DIY system with lots of headaches. If you asked one of us to take it over I would so no thanks and I am sure most decent approved co's here would say the same, theres a reason that we are not desperate to get any contract at any cost.
When an approved installer comes to survey he will carry out a risk assessment, this ra takes into account theft attractive property, how easy it is to break in (flat roofs ground floor ect ect), crime history of the area, what the insurer requires, and a few other factors. This assessment determines the grade of the alarm system, the type of monitoring required, in order to be a G3 system it has to be connected to a monitoring station with G3 or above monitoring equipment.
You came here for advice. We have no idea of the contents of your flat or the likelihood of you being burgled, it looks a nice flat from the layout so I would say probably reasonable.
I do understand why you want to do it yourself and I dont think that your trying to save money (if you are you are more foolish than I give you credit for). If you still really think you need g3 then my suggestion is that you get three quotes from NSI gold companies they will advise you professionally of what you need, and dont be surprised if they suggest G2 quads and point them at the windows. Since the invention of white light filters on lenses in 1992 I have been successfully pointing quad detectors at windows with no adverse effects. Our false alarm rate is less than 2% 100% of that is customer error and we have around 3,500 contracts, SWB may disagree with me on that one but he wont install wireless either.