al-yeti
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Posts posted by al-yeti
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22 hours ago, Frank Falcon said:
Hi all
Bit of a long story this so please bear with me and all will become clear. So, last year we moved into a new house that needed a lot of work doing. In that work I needed new security cams and a new burglar alarm. I wanted the job doing right by an established company with good reviews, so I put an add on rated people. Out of all the companies available I chose a company to carry out the works for me. I paid over £4000 to which I am not moaning or complaining about. As it stands today I have an app on my phone named ProControl+ which serves me well and shows the 6 cameras looking down on my house. No problem here. Now, the problems are with the Alarm System...Remember, when I said the house needed lots of work doing? It needed 12 new windows and doors in total and at the time I literally couldn't afford to have them all replaced at the time. My plan was that I would replace them as I was going along. So, all good up to now...It comes to 6 months ago and I had 3 windows replaced. On those windows were the large, White shock sensors fitted by the company above. So, me being me, I literally unscrewed them from each window and when the new windows were fitted I screwed them back on. However, the alarm panel had sensed that I had removed the sensors and wouldn't set. So, I had no option but to call the company to ask how I could get round this. Their words were 'It's not something you can do. You need the WifI sensors recalibrating with the panel because you've moved the distance of them'. I told them I hadn't altered the distance etc. Simply, unscrewed the sensors and screwed them back on to the new windows in the same position. Either way, they wouldn't help me and so we had no choice but to pay them to come out and 'recalibrate' the shockers. The whole thing took 10 minutes and it was expensive. So, we move on and as I speak I am now changing more windows that have these new shocks on. Again, yesterday, I removed 1 shock. Screwed it back on to the new window but again last night the system throws up an error. It says I can set system with existing faults (or something similar) which I did but this morning it appears it hadn't set. So, again I contacted the alarm installers this morning and lo and behold he is on holiday for 3 weeks now. When he gets back he will 'try to fit me in', so I guess you know what that means! The problem is made worse that the company (which is a guy and his son) is very far away. I know I was stupid to employ such a company so far away but I never envisaged needing (costly) assistance every time I changed a window or door. So, here's my problem and my thoughts, which I hope you will agree with...
I now have an alarm system that I have no choice but to call out the original installers every time I change a contact. The cost for them to travel to me is silly and I don't think it's fair. There is no way in the world I would have ever agreed to an arrangement where I had to pay someone to change a contact every time I changed a window. I'm not asking for them to do anything for free but it's ridiculous that they can't get out to me for so long (my fault for appointing a company so far away) and when they do I have to pay for a job I can easilly do myself.
So, what do I want to do? I want to know how to simply 'recalibrate' these shock sensors with my panel. I know there's a few videos on youtube regarding adding new sensors (an learning etc) but I don't want to add new sensors. I just want to recalibrate the existing sensors every time I change a window. Any help guys?
Not sure if it has anything to do with it but last year I used to pay a fee (so that when the alarm went off it pinged on my Iphone) but that doesn't happen anymore either.
I am 99% sure my system is a pyronix (possibly enforcer) and I DO have the engineer code and obviously my own log in.
Thanks in advance guys
Not sure I agree with anything much
I would say more like nothing needs calibration and it throws a tamper error error , I don't actually get it
If you mounted then the same way up and nothing has really changed the panel must be giving you a tamper error ?????
I assume if you didn't remove the sensor and only tried to change the battery yourself then it also throws a tamper error
If you were under a contract and having a service contract etc then this seems all fair
For that kind of money don't you have full app control
And doesn't the installer have app control ? Where he even as a one man band can disable the problematic sensor for you
Depending on what your paying each time you need to change installer aswell , someone who is more flexible and available
Ask system to be left as user reset it's not under a contract anyway so why wouldn't they?
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3 hours ago, PeterJames said:
External keypad is your problem, they are not IP rated and are supposed to be mounted internally not externally
Just his terminology
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2 hours ago, Mr Taiwo said:
Hello guys,
Currently am working on a veritas 8 texecom panel, which has been given false alarm for days
Observation
- external Keypad is off
- The panel tamper light in on
- The zone 7 light lite up after resetting the system.
What can be done ?
What you mean external keypad is off? Off the wall or dead?
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10 minutes ago, MrHappy said:
Cool stuff
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3 hours ago, JimM said:
Thanks again for the info
Jumper from TR to 0V at the panel clears the fault, tried jumpering the TR to H- (presumably this is 0V) at the bellbox and fault remains so guessing there is an issue with the cable.
Can't be a complete break as power still getting to bellbox as when I disconnect the H+ terminal bell stops ringing. To try and confirm that it's just an individual core (or possibly more) I intend to 'pair' the cables up at one end and test continuity at the other - does that sound sensible? Hopefully if it's just one core broken I think there will be a spare one I can utilise as only 5 cores out of the 6 are used.
Pyronix bell looks as good as any to me, so probably will go with one of those if needed.
You haven't had stair carpet fitted recently have you?
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2 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:
So? AG6 DIY and sparkie favourite... junk but available and popular.
Everyone will have their own favourite panel and bell.
If you have a sample size of 1 and it works for 10 years what's the issue...
Ag6 though one of worst in weather , and doesn't have scb
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55 minutes ago, JimM said:
Thanks guys, guess the obvious thing to check is continuity of the cable and if that's OK invest in new bell box.
Are bell boxes generic or would I need a specific make\model, any suggestions of what to get.
Thanks
Loop bell tamper at bell see if it clears the fault
If not
Loop bell tamper at panel
One will more less tell you what problem is
Maybe.....
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11 hours ago, PeterJames said:
Fixed!
According to the FB security forums most of the free ones have been down at one time or another. Many of them are now charging for their apps, to fund their costs.
Bear in mind in order for someone to get something for nothing, someone is getting nothing for something. A business cannot afford to continue to spend money on servers and electricity to run them for nothing in return, and all the while they are supplying this service for free they have no motivation to fix it quickly when it goes wrong.
Probably why Eaton still free they just don't sell enough of it and need higher take up?
Who else is still free ? texecoN? Disco?
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10 hours ago, John Goodfellow said:
Hi guys I'm having my house pointed and have 2 active wireless bell boxes to remove, the engineer says disconnect the battery but once they are unscrewed from the wall the alarm will go off so I have to lay them on their back and put a decent weight on top as they have a pressure device (anti) tamper) that goes against the wall then I have to put in my 4 digit code and press NO so that's OK for the removal does anyone know how to refit the boxes I suppose it's just fasten them back to the wall and they will start to go off so once secure put in your 4 digit code maybe with YES at the end, me email is anyone can advise further, thanks
As above pay alarm man for two visits although the refit is where you really need him provided you don't mess something up
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3 hours ago, MrHappy said:
Nice
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2 minutes ago, Bobby21 said:
Thanks for the response. The fuse box is fine I was just testing it out by tripping the fuse to see if it works but this month its stopped working...
When you say external sounder is that the full box outside needs replacing? Will it fit with the wiring already there as the alarm is probably 15 years old..
As said above , you testing the bell by tripping the fuse box means there was another fault
Probably the battery which you have now replaced or your battery fuse maybe gone or charge circuit dead , hence why you still get something from the box when you trip it
And then additional as above replace bell box
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32 minutes ago, leew87 said:
Hi All
thanks for your input
if i was looking to go down the rout of upgrading my panel would you upgrade my current system with a
1) Risco Lightsys+ panel (without monitoring).
2) Replace the how system with Verisure (monitored system) (altho verisure do not currently have smoke detectors) they say these are very close to being released as my current system does.
we are a small business in a small shop on a residential parade.
Neither
And what's point of no monitoring with light sys?
Is that option of DIY install ? Thenlightsys?
If your going for DIY option and want self free monitoring, probably the best option is the ion40 from what I can see , just the two examples you gave were not compatible
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14 hours ago, frenzy382 said:
or...am i looking at the completely wrong set of instructions.....that's a possibility i suppose. Like James above was saying....lots of iterations. I'll keep digging to see if i can find alternate (but similar) instructions.
Pain panel , variations in the programming became stupid
Just get rid
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8 hours ago, Imnotshankled said:
Meh I'm getting plenty of business
Business yes
But you definitely not earning enough shekels
Maybe you better go work for jb-eye?
33 minutes ago, MrHappy said:Good, however the really hard bit is getting enough £ though the door to pay staff.
One man band , sub everything you don't want ?
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1 minute ago, paulm1986 said:
which is the best and easy install + programing
But best is not easy to install and programme and some is not available to public and so on
So with what your already using ion40 is quite a jump up , as the app system is still free , granted some devices one way but it will do for you and making an account is easy aswell when you want to go the self monitoring route which you can't do with a 9651
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25 minutes ago, paulm1986 said:
Checked the battery its fine.showing full 13V should it also be 7A?
whats the best panel to replace it with in case i need to change it?
Tnx.
In your case DIY? Ion40 it's not the best though
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4 hours ago, paulm1986 said:
I got "checking Bus" msg suddenly when everything was working as it should before and the date went to 1/1/2005. all the codes went back to default codes and the internal sounde went off every 5 minutes. Any ideas? do i need to reprogramme the sys. or is ther another fault. why has it gone like this. sys was installed in 2015
Paul
Needs new panel , starting to see this often in the 9651 and it will happen again
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27 minutes ago, Jim Willsher said:
I have. I’ve got it working, it was a schoolboy error on my part. For some reason I got it into my bed that EE was the keypad so I wired it into there. Of course I should have wired it into data and clk. I’m embarrassed to even write that!
Nah no embarrassement
Good job
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1 hour ago, Jim Willsher said:
HiI’ve finally been able to wire this up today (new extension was delayed). But I can’t get it to work. They keypad buttons are illuminated and they beep when pressed, however none of the LEDs on the left are illuminated. Also, entering my user code does nothing, apart from the key beeps.
Can anyone suggest what I have missed? I didn’t understand the reboot comment above so I have not done anything besides the wiring.
Original keypad was address zero so I have set this to address one.
Many thanks.
Jim
Reboot meaning disconnect mains and battery , reconnect mains and the battery in this case
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8 hours ago, PeterJames said:
Agility is one way wireless, surely two way coms would be required for a panel to tell a bell its in engineer. In the same way it would tell detectors its armed. Im not saying your wrong, but why would manufacturers make a wireless system that disables the bell in engineers and not make a hard wired one that does the same. After all you only need 5 of a 6 core cable to wire an sas so you have a spare if you only use 6 core. Not that I would use it though its sound too much of a risk.
Very few would do it though, too much faff and another thing that could go wrong, with serious consequences, nobody wants a failed to operate on their hands.
Ok but it's possible
I would always wire it in but leave it dissed at panel for my own use , but then don't use those bells much anymore , shame it's not a standard feature on all bells
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3 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:
Generally this is correct you can't open a siren without triggering it, but it will all depend on the system and it's condition tho.
Faulty, poorly installed or wireless may react different.
Engineers mode would disable internal warning devices on tamper, however wired bells (SAB) are self activating, it's in the name.
Galaxy? Or similar using delta with tamper disable connection to an output when in engineers mode , sure it will disable the tamper ......
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1 hour ago, PeterJames said:
Along with the light bulbs and switch's
Lol some.people do that , not witches tho but will remove the nice stuff replace with cheap white read the small print
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50 minutes ago, Imnotshankled said:
The DIY tat is ****
For the alarm recommend texecom ricochet kit with a smartcom
Cctv I recommend qvis for Cctv
But smartcon isn't easy for DIY either right?
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46 minutes ago, MrHappy said:
I was toying with ringing his office for advice on a matter & or a fight!
He won't fight you , he will just take your to McDonald's ....
WiFi controlled Window Shock on Pyronix Enforcer not working now after I changed it to new window. Engineer says it needs 'Recalibrating with the panel'?
in Control Panels (Public)
Posted · Edited by al-yeti
Just realised you say you have engineer code, makes sense why your low priority because you will dabble but have to pay anyone to come to you
Then as above read instructions and reset it , btw don't default it just reset the panel lol