al-yeti

Monday at 21:26

42 minutes ago, PeterJames said:

The problem as I see it lots of people think this industry is easier than it is, the chap that came today couldnt even wire a 3 pin plug but thought he could become an alarm engineer, it would take a lot lot longer with him than a person with some basic knowledge, as you have teach the basics first.

On the other side of the coin engineers think its much harder than it is. They seem to think that it takes years of experience to do their job. Yet many competent diyers can install a half decent system (not as good as a pro but a working system).

I reckon that it is possible to teach someone with a tech background to do this job in 3 or four months. Yes experience makes you better at what you do, especially so with breakdowns, but the minimum requirements is all thats required for servicing and to go on call.

Experience counts

I like your guys access control techniques no door is a problem as such good jobs

May 15

3 hours ago, LewisLewLew3492 said:

Hi,

I’ve got a Risco Agility (not the Agility 3 it’s just the original one) RW132KP.

I’ve got 3 RWT92P’s and 1 RWT72i.

the alarm in question is in a shed type thing where we do construction stuff, I’ve also got one in my house with the same bundle and haven’t had any issues!

how to I fix the problem of the RWT72i draining through battery’s and getting hot? When I say drawing through fast I mean like in a couple of hours!

please help!

(The installer company is Sky Security Solutions Ltd.)

Change contact?

May 3

45 minutes ago, monena said:

Hello Everyone,

After a very long renovation and subsequent complete rewiring of the alarm system, I have returned to activating the lightsys alarm.

Unfortunately, however, some door opening detection sensors, connected via radio, continuously give the tamper alarm.

In particular, 3 sensors out of 9 have this problem.

What could have happened?

I have already changed all the battery.

Thanks for your availability.

Best regards
Simone

Plastics?

April 26

Bell delay? Or something?

April 24

1 minute ago, Eugene's DIY Den said:

120 V. Presumably that's RMS , because peak voltage is nearly 250 to 300 V. This is the waveform on a scope.

Anyway I had a stroke of luck. My old sounder has the exact same piezo transducer so I'm going to use that. Hopefully it's the same voltage, but it looks totally identical. The HKC sounder is taking nearly 200 mA when sounding after I replaced the piezo element, which tallies with the 250 mA peak they give in the spec.

Didn't realise it was old bell , bin it now

April 21

15 minutes ago, MrHappy said:

your document appears to have a requirement for the installation work to be undertaken by an electrical contractor with nic eic or similar ?

17 minutes ago, MrHappy said:

your document appears to have a requirement for the installation work to be undertaken by an electrical contractor with nic eic or similar ?

Electrical part only right.....

April 21

16 minutes ago, SubbyFS said:

Evening All

I have decided to go subbying after 15 years within the industry, and looking for some guidance in regards to installing fire alarms. If you are sub contracting to a company that are Bafe registered, does the sub contractor have to be Bafe registered in order to install?

You don't need to be registered anywhere for anything if the company who is hiring you is registered, your representing them not yourself

But would be handy if you have skilz lol

April 21

19 minutes ago, LJB said:

Thank you, that's a very good bit of advice. Very logical and obvious when pointed out. Appreciate it

Trim everything back and reconnect see what happens

April 20

15 minutes ago, LJB said:

Hi all

I am not a security engineer just a home owner. I have a tool shed with a vanderbilt Act5e keypad controlling a maglock on the door. This is powered by an elmdene psu. It also has a green break glass and push to exit button.

The power had stopped going to maglock and upon various checks with a multimeter the psu, break glass and push to exit switch was OK. I then removed keypad and water had made its way into back of unit and corroded the 12v and 0 terminals and the common wire had snapped. I have replaced the common wire into the 12v terminal and after connecting all back up, the red fault light is showing on the psu, however the maglock is now powered and working. I am thinking it might be recognising a short circuit due to the corrosion. Will cleaning the terminals correct this or will a new keypad be required or any other issues you think it may be. The psu also has a standby battery showing correct voltage. I am not an engineer, I really cannot afford an expensive fix as it's only a shed. I would like to try all things possible to me before removing.

Thanks for any help or advice.

Probably need a new keypad , you could try and clean it up a little bit I don't think it will help, although surprised it's had that much water behind it, I have installed and they still working for years

Is it on a slanted feather edge mounted or something?

April 19

3 hours ago, PeterJames said:

I see good makes more shekels

April 19

1 hour ago, Eugene's DIY Den said:

The time and date also reset on my wired keypad. So either they don't have a non-volatile memory to hold time settings or a lithium cell in the keypad is dead.

Watchdog reset or something? There's no battery in keypad

April 19

2 hours ago, PeterJames said:

Word of warning with shear locks alignment is critical any play on the door forget it, use lock tight on the screws unless you want to keep going back and adjusting it, lastly pay close attention to the instructions, they come with different springs for a reason.

Surface mounted shearlocks need the right springs, (see above) but generally wont need high level carpentry skills, mortice is a different story altogether.

Personally Id sub fitting a mortice shearlock to a locksmith they will do a neater job of fitting it and getting it spot on, just put the wires in the holes is my advice especially as you have never done one before.

https://www.aldridgesecurity.co.uk/adams-0003-adams-rite-1354-0100-mortice-shear-magnet.html

Thats where our locksmith gets his

You know approx cost ? I give it passing see what he says

I know the onsite maintenance so pricing isn't a problem

But yeah I understand the alignment bit

Powered lock looks good tho , just surface mount the cables lol

April 19

26 minutes ago, MrHappy said:

At work I replaced the Adams right shear lock,

Item came from eBay as adi what £500

Seen some online

https://www.onlinesecurityproducts.co.uk/shear-locks/cdvi-diax-cz3000-flush-mount-1500kg-self-aligning-shearlock.html

April 19

2 hours ago, MrHappy said:

rim releases normally fall to bit by the machine screws falling out

thread lock helps

its either the door slamming or cnuts braying the door...

a shear lock is very dear !

Shear lock seems the way, although I never done one of those, don't seem to difficult, just need to get some tape to fix it on

Guy in this building doesn't mind spending

Any examples of shears on how your fitting them ?

April 18

9 hours ago, PeterJames said:

Im glad you didnt call it tape of colour

Cmon man , I am with the supreme court in this one

April 17

4 hours ago, norman said:

Assumed you would be OK with that and sticky tape

Brown tape yes

April 17

10 minutes ago, Eugene's DIY Den said:

Are they rechargeable C123s? This is a wired sounder. I'm going to open the sounder to see what the story is. My old sounder failed due to corrosion, but that was because it had a high voltage strobe and voltage tracked across the PCB due to the varnish breaking down and moisture presumably.
A new sounder is €47 + VAT. Battery he says is €38 + VAT.

Oh in that case it's just a few quid dude for the internal backup battery

Thing is in your first post you have a link for RF battery pack hence I thought it's RF sabb

But the RF sabb can also run off the panel on 12v but the signalling is via the RF

Wired bell, then you can get any bell as a replacement if you had to

April 17

43 minutes ago, Eugene's DIY Den said:

The sounder on my alarm sounds "scratchy" and the volume is increasing and decreasing a bit as though there's a loose connection. Or maybe a failing battery is the problem? Is this the battery that goes into these sounders? My electrical wholesaler says that the battery is nearly as expensive as a new sounder, so maybe it's better to buy a new one if e.g. corrosion on the PCB board is what's causing the sound problem.

https://www.hkcsecurity.com/ie/en/products/auxiliary-equipment-wireless/extended-6v-battery-pack-rf-sabb

Although wholesaler is talking **** about the battery pack

Just replace the cr123 see if it helps you don't need the whole new pack open it 6xbatts

Maybe the sounder itself is weather damaged?

The sounder yes is expensive ish

April 17

14 minutes ago, norman said:

Insecure side, double sided 3m, next!

Insecure side ? So how will it be protected?

April 17

How would you put a maglock here ?as standard lock keeps failing as it's being forced open over time

April 15

1 hour ago, Dave Walton said:

I have removed the old battery and plan to replace it once I've finished doing the few little alterations I hope to make.

Checked the voltage at the panel outputs for the battery and was getting 14.6 V.

Regards.

Price of a panel and keypad DIY your mad keeping this going

April 1

1 hour ago, Tens6306 said:

None of the lines are working, not even line 1. If I connect my keypads to the other panel (new) it works perfectly. So I now know the issue is with the panel and it affects all the AB lines. Is there a way I can get this fixed or what could be the problem?

Well I assume eBay new panel doesn't work so forget it

March 31

33 minutes ago, Tens6306 said:

I have connected to all the lines and changed keypad addressing as well and still same result, still no comms.

So going back it seems you think both keypads work

But are sending line 2 downstairs

Why not just put everything on to line 1?

March 31

15 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

And not cut the spares off ......

March 22

5 hours ago, Mark Hennessy said:

I was looking at the EXP-R30 but thinking that if this is wireless, what would the difference be between connecting this or my wireless accessories (detector, keypad etc)?

The i-on40h suggests that it is good for wireless for 1,000 metres (line of sight) and I am wanting to communicate just over 30 metres (through two brick walls).

My only wired means between the two locations is via ethernet hence why I was thinking about wireless/radio capability and want to ensure a stable and secure connection to have a zone for my garage.

The extender gives better flexibility outputs at the remote location such as wired sounders and configurable outputs, but seems like both options are a possibility and wanted to check with other users thoughts and experience of this panel.

Thanks.

Ok so expander as I said not extender repeater thing , maybe it's just wording we both using but same thing

Will this work with the panel you have or want

As mrH says is what I would probably do, or somewhere within range

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