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al-yeti

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Posts posted by al-yeti

  1. On 30/03/2022 at 20:21, Jwiggand said:

    Never used those panels. Would you recommend those ones then. Don’t actually do too much wireless ,and when we have had to in commercial places it’s normally expanding a ion with wireless expanders. 

    Ion is one of the worst without a doubt , probably someone chose it because they have on in there house instead of looking at the commercial qualities of other panels against the ion 

     

     

  2. 16 hours ago, keymx said:

     

    Yes, funny things like connecting it to a computer, quickly writing a communication program and cracking the UDL and engineer's code. I just managed to do all of those things so there's that. ?

     

    Point of this excercise was that I've already paid for the system, wanted to use it as is without buying a new board, and also learn how it works. Now with Wintex access and engineer's code I have full control which I'm happy about - it finally feels like I'm the real owner of the device and hope to learn system configuration further.

     

     

    I am OK with maintaining the system periodically myself. Maybe for average user paying for that service is fine but not for me - as said before, among other reasons I prefer to keep an eye on sensitive things at my place personally (same thing goes with installing physical locks, cameras, etc.).

     

     

    That's why I'm here and happy to learn about those things. About a week ago I had no idea how this works at all, mainly because that knowledge was never needed for me, but now I feel I learned a ton within a week (which was real fun tbh). I understand why most of the replies tried to persuade me to call a professional and I generally agree with this sentiment when it comes to average user.

     

    Anyhow, I'm still left with the siren box problem:

     

     

    I haven't taken down the siren box yet. The problem is its location which is very high, right below the gutter. When replacing the batteries I was barely able to reach it and open/close the compartment with them. I hope I could reconnect it with the main unit without taking it down? What would be the correct procedure to do so? FWIW, I can now provide more details from Wintex to maybe give more clues about the problem with it.

     

    Cheers!

    Connect computer to a platform lift , no need to crack codes , just get lift to take you up to bell box , you can get from hss

     

    Or alarm man will do with ladders wood pallets of doom and bucket full of tools 

     

     

     

     

  3. 15 hours ago, keymx said:

     

    Yes, funny things like connecting it to a computer, quickly writing a communication program and cracking the UDL and engineer's code. I just managed to do all of those things so there's that. ?

     

    e full control which I'm happy about - it finally feels like I'm the real owner of the device and hope to learn system configuration further.

     

     

    Are you saying , you don't feel like you own a device unless you have access to factory settings , so you have this with your tv , washing machine , car , and so on ???

     

    Thought so , 

     

    I am confused why your here , I mean you cracked everything now, done deal , sorted , security done , 

     

    You finished it ?

  4. 1 hour ago, keymx said:

    Thanks for all the replies, very informative!

     

     

     

    The previous owner used it unserviced, he disclosed it at the time of the purchase. According to him it was just a matter of replacing the batteries so at the time I didn't think anything of it as I didn't know much about the system. However, he didn't mention that the engineer code is changed (and tbh I doubt he knew about it, probably whoever installed it for him did it as a rule of thumb and just left him with the master code). We inherited this problem so now have to deal with it.

     

     

     

    I'm not too scared of reprogramming it if that's a possiblity. I can deal with more arcane technical things (and tbh I prefer to know all the ins and outs, especially when it comes to things installed in my own place, if in future I'd like to expand the system with more zones and sensors, I'd like to be able do it myself). Being a software engineer I always try to find a solution to the problem and it's fun to find out how things work (learned plenty about the system already).

     

     

     

    Happy to learn about better ones - please send recommendations.

     

    I noticed that there's "Enable Engineer" option in the user menu but AFAICT it doesn't seem to change anything after enabling - what's the purpose if this?

     

    Cheers!

    Ok software engineer now makes more sense 

     

    Look if your really want to do it just do it , probably mean you won't have a working alarm for a while , however you could buy another panel and keep devices if the old one is locked and work it out on the bench 

     

     

    However many a software engineer do funny things to alarms lol 

  5. 1 hour ago, keymx said:

    Thanks for the reply! I use Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries as per recommendations so they should be ok.

     

    It looks like the previous owner was fed up with the siren and took out one of the (now dead) batteries to silence it. It's frustrating because we actually paid him extra for the system - since it's all mounted I thought it's going to be easier than buying new set and setting it up myself.

     

    So if I understand correctly, if I try to load factory defaults with NVM locked will it brick the PCB board permanently?

     

    I'm not sure if this gives any clues, but once I was able to clear the "Zone Tamper" error for siren box from the keypad with master code when it was going off (the "Radio Conf Fail" error was persisting though so probably that's why it was sounding the alarm?). I'm not sure if that means the siren can be sorted by master too?

     

    Would Wintex software help me in this situation - happy to get the cable to get this sorted as long as it's a viable solution.

     

    Cheers!

    Sounds to me you will be like previous owner , won't spend on it, and get a texecom engineer in, hence the problem with bell and anything else , either way you need to pay someone to reset it do something for you 

     

    If you load defaults it won't brick it no , but you will lose all information and start from scratch , so aswell as whatever faults still exist , a load new ones will appear 

     

    Your probably thinking you can just buy a new panel and do it yourself , well good luck with programming it , it isn't the easiest of panels to work with if you don't know what your doing

     

    Just being honest get a texe pro to help you , it will be worth it , or try loading defaults and hopefully within 6months it will be working how you want it to, paid extra for system , used unserviced 

     

     

     

     

  6. 6 minutes ago, Mark ogg said:

    I have a gardtec 816 and dailler

     

    will this Dailler work if I get full fibre broadband in house

    as it’s a digital line instead of a copper telephone line

    if not is there a way to make it work

    No it won't work

    No you can't make it work and if possible waste of allot of money 

     

    Switch to app system and pay monthly for good service 

     

     

  7. 2 hours ago, Forty_Two said:

    The alarm system (Accenta G3) was installed a long time ago (maybe 20 years). The system was working fine until I changed the battery. (A recent power cut caused me to realise that the battery was dead). I did my research and bought a like for like battery. I installed it and when activating the alarm 2 of the 5 PIR’s come us faulty (I can see that the two PIRs in two rooms on the ground floor are not lit up). I can set the alarm by ‘omiting’ those two PIRs. I presumed I must have dislodged a wire when I had put in the new battery. I took the front off the alarm box and cannot see any loose wires.

     

    Because all was good before the new battery I am presuming this is something simple but, of course, I don’t know - any ideas

     

    TIA

    Something as old as this needs scrapping , I suprised you managed to make this post with such and old phone ?

     

     

  8. 17 minutes ago, jaylockwood1978 said:

    Morning all,

     

    We have moved house recently and inherited an I-on16 alarm. We’ve managed to cha he the user code but we are unable to change any other settings, ie part set locations etc. the paperwork for the installer is here but the company doesn’t seem to exist any more so we don’t have the engineer code. 
    I’m guessing the system needs servicing Sonia this something another company could sort?

     

    Also, our old Risco alarm had wireless sensors and an app which was really handy. Is this I-on system upgradable to have these features or would we be better looking at a new alarm?

     

    Thanks in advance for any help

     

    Jay

    Ion 16 discontinued, and won't do the app best to scrrrap it

     

    Ion40 will do it 

  9. 6 minutes ago, Driller said:

    Hi James, 

     

    First time back here since my last post so I’ve just seen yours. Just been on the phone to my sister who’s staying in the place whilst I’m away and got her to go through the motions of setting it.

     

    it was left coming out of engineer mode and asking for ESC to be pushed (that’s how far I got before I raced out of the house to drive to Dover and get the ferry!). After she pressed esc and got it back to normal mode I got her to set the alarm and lo and behold it counted down and set fine.

     

    So whatever I had done in engineer mode before rushing out apparently fixed the problem, that’s how close it was. Can’t remember now of course.

     

    We did have to reprogram the front door as a final zone which was weird as I was sure I did that already and like I said before the panel defaulted after I’d programmed then powered down and removed the battery to add the detectors. Odd.

     

    al-yeti, you are right, no groups programmed or set and panel is brand spanking so should be defaulted already.

     

    Am I the only one who gets paranoid programming these things as there seems to be a lot of « gremlins » but then you never know if it’s just you who’s made a silly mistake?

     

    Alright, you’re pros so please don’t answer that lol

     

    James fair shout for the one-topic one-post thing, I guess it was just a case of panicking a bit as I’d had to leave the site.

     

    Next job is to install the Ethernet module and configure with Galaxy Guy’s app so I’ll start a new topic for that.

     

    Thanks again gents.

     

     

    It doesn't ask you to press ESC.....

     

    But good DIY bashing ......

  10. 56 minutes ago, MrHappy said:

     

    8:30 to 11:00 to change a 9651 to a p48 inc moving spur, with ewd + decoy

     

    1hr for panel 30 mins each for ewd, decoy & rkp

     

     There's probably a further day to add other expanders & circuits & cat 5 for comms

    1hr travel each way?

    Setup

    Analyze

    Get pallets of doom in order

     

     

    4hour? £150?

  11. 2 hours ago, al-yeti said:

    So then if panel isn't faulty you may have changed the polarity by mistake 

     

    Make sure it's neg and do a panel restart before testing it again

    And of course as above did you change bell delay ....

    So much the same changing polarity changing output type and so on all in programming

     

    Well done for remembering

  12. 56 minutes ago, Whiteside46 said:

    What do you mean by changed polarity by mistake? Strobe works. Bell works on tamper. Just not the command for the bell from the panel. 
     

    how would I go about a panel reset? 
     

     

    I didn't say panel reset ? 

    What's bell tamper got to do with bell trigger?

     

    Other than than that look through menus and manual you will see both options on what you can and cannot change 

     

  13. 11 minutes ago, Stable_Boy said:

     

    Of? That is will work, that it won't work, that I'd be better off with the one costing 3 times more? That the one that costs 3 times more claims to be is not made in the UK?

    Your making this far to over complicated

     

    Have you not ordered one yet ?

     

    Buy one on eBay or Amazon that you can return if it doesn't work to what they say it will do very simple 

     

    Long story dude , hit that button buy it man 

    • Like 1
  14. 8 hours ago, Stable_Boy said:

    Back on the Stable install, all up & working & the false triggers we were getting with the old alarm have no stopped, so it appears it may have been faulty or some of the wiring was, but not bad it lasted over 30 year, good Yorkshire's monies worth.

     

    The new issue/problem/challenge is to get the panel to talk out to the world, there's no Landline available so it logically has to be GSM, seen a few cheap GSM Diallers but they only appear to support 2G which is redundant, does anyone know of a reasonably costed 4G unit, I know reasonably is a relative term & you professional installers can charge businesses £400 for one as it goes through the books, but this is coming out of my pocket.

     

    Panel is a Texecom Premier 48, cica 2007

     

    Thanks in advance

     

    Alan..

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GSM-Alarm-Auto-Dialler-UK-Made-Universal-Dialler-DVR-PIR-Remote-Alerts-4-INPUTS-/362602240582?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

  15. 1 hour ago, stomp-aged-canyon said:

    Hi all,


    Backstory

    Recently I approached my alarm guy (not sure of the exact terminology! Engineer?), he inherited the system as he didn't install it, for a service on my existing system.  An appointment was booked however no show on the day nor no phone call back when leaving a message.  Another reminder a few days later and a day later he arrived and carried out a service.  He always knew I wanted to upgrade as my garage, as it stands, is currently unprotected.

     

    Him and I got talking and discussed all of the potential options on the table in terms of this however since the house side trunking, that runs between the house and the garage, was nowhere to be found, the existing panel and keypad would need to be ripped out and replaced with a hybrid system and suggested a Euro 46.  I would have really preferred a wired PIR, due to the untrustworthiness of wireless, for the garage but alas it wasn't to be given the environment but there's no love lost as by upgrading I'd be able to achieve smart features - I've always wanted the existing system to have communication.  Win some, lose some I guess.

    My questions in terms of upgrading, on the day he arrived, were mostly answered however some he had to come back to me on.  I had more questions post that which have been left unanswered however I requested a quote for the kit discussed.  Unfortunately items were missing from the quote that I had to chase up upon.  In the end up here's what he priced me for:

     

    Upgrade - £950

     

    • Euro 46
    • Keypad
    • Batteries
    • LAN Module
    • Wireless DT
    • Wireless Deltabell
    • Wireless Zone Expander

     

    I found this to be a little steep and in the age of the internet where information is at our finger tips I set about trying to reduce this as much as possible/understand his position in terms of his pricing.  His explanation was because margins were extremely tight in the industry.

     

    What I found was that I can get the above kit for roughly £500 sans installation.  I fully appreciate that I'm paying an installer, a professional, his knowledge/training etc to do this but I'm unable to justify £450 installation for what would be maybe half a days worth of work?  I'd be willing to meet him in the middle (or slightly over) however he won't budge lower than £900 nor will he install the kit if I were to source it.

     

    Here's the system that it's replacing/upgrading:

     

    Existing system

     

    • Scantronic 9651 Keypad and Panel
    • Wired PIRs
    • Deltabell E (I believe - looking at the comparison charts of the WE/Plus/E/X it doesn't have an illuminated backcover nor is it wireless so by elimination it has to be the E)
    • FPMEQBL PIRs (I believe - they look similar)

     

    My plan

    I'm now determined to upgrade this myself because as far as I can understand he'll still service it so long as it has been installed.  Funny thing is that I'd still be quids in if I procured and installed the kit but had him service it hence why I'm having difficulty in justifying him doing the install.  Not to forget the kind of bad experience I've had with him of late but the benefits offered by him as part of his servicing makes me want to stay albeit not have him install.  I know the engineer code for the 9651 panel.

     

    My questions before I purchase the components above

     

    1. How many users can I register on the app?
    2. Does each user have their own login on the app?
    3. I believe, within the HomeControl 2.0 app, you can see the status of each detector, does this work with existing, hardwired, detectors such as those I've outlined above?
    4. Will I need a ladder long enough to reach the existing Deltabell, say to identify anything?
      • I have looked at the wiring guide from Pyronix in relation to the Deltabell E and there's a potential that there could be resistors within the unit itself.  I don't have a ladder large enough to do this although buying a ladder long enough would still be cheaper than having him do the install.
    5. When decomissioning the existing system, is there any way to prevent the existing Deltabell from sounding?
      • Taking a look at the installation guide for the Deltabell E I should be able to connect the cable connected to ENG HOLD to 0V (I assume this means grounding it) however when looking at the Deltabell E wiring guide for the Scantronic 9651 the ENG HOLD terminal isn't connected.  I suppose this is sort of ways related to the previous question - can I identify if this ENG HOLD terminal is connected without opening the existing Deltabell?
    6. Is there any other advice that I should be aware of/take heed of before taking the plunge?

     

    Thank you in advance and I look forward to reading your responses.

    Swb is spot on 

     

    However if you really want to give it a go 

     

    Wire it up on the floor or a bench somewhere buy some cable and make yourself a working alarm this way before.installing it 

     

    After 6months of messing around you can deal with the logistics of doing it 

     

    Realistically as swb your not.paying the installer to be a labourer , don't forget to order ear muffs if you can't stop the bell ringing , and you probably find resistors in all the existing sensors aswell , or will need to put them in , all is possible

     

    Price seems ok to me , I assume he setting up all the accounts for the app system for you aswell.

  16. 1 hour ago, james.wilson said:

    Are you arming all groups? 

    Check it's all just group a1 maybe

     

    But to make things easier I'd do a topic per issue rather than a list in 1 topic

    Default no groups right? Or he says he isn't ....

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