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al-yeti

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Posts posted by al-yeti

  1. 1 hour ago, Driller said:

    Just checked back and saw these replies, thanks for the suggestions gentlemen. 
     

    it’s a Dimension 48 panel. 
     


    The “clip” is definitely still there and yes as mentioned there was a white, cardboard or plastic strip wedged under the clip with “please remove before use”. Very similar to the plastic strip you have to pull out of the battery compartment of modern remote controls that have these batteries in them.

     

    I’m away from the property for a while but as soon as I get back I’ll get the battery out and both check underneath it and check it’s voltage.

    Dude, before continuing buy an spi key , so you have to manually program each time , then you can mess about easier

  2. 10 hours ago, Monte Carlo said:

     

    Yes, which is why I said

     

    Just to test it why not "Don't connect the tamper return of the siren at the panel, and put a permanent -ve there" and see is the panel happy. If it is, you can then cut all but the black.

    So still guessing 

     

    Zero is answer end of , if it doesn't work then something is faulty 

     

    If panel not happy then faulty or something

     

    If bell not happy then faulty or something else

     

  3. 1 hour ago, Monte Carlo said:

    Just to test it why not "Don't connect the tamper return of the siren at the panel, and put a permanent -ve there" and see is the panel happy. If it is, you can then cut all but the black.

     

    Galaxy uses 1k for everything.

    Blag

     

    Zero

    1 hour ago, Monte Carlo said:

    Just to test it why not "Don't connect the tamper return of the siren at the panel, and put a permanent -ve there" and see is the panel happy. If it is, you can then cut all but the black.

     

    Galaxy uses 1k for everything.

    Double blag diff for fault and masking 

    34 minutes ago, MrHappy said:

    8 core with a purple wire ??

     

    CSD Professional used to do something like  that 2o yr ago ??

    Diy thread

  4. 26 minutes ago, Bradders1664 said:

    Hello

     

    I am installing an ADT/Elmdene bell box (external sounder) in a Honeywell Galaxy 3-48C panel.

     

    I'm fine on the wiring but the bell box has EOL tamper resistors in it and need to cut the right link to ensure the EOL resistance is correct for the unit to function correctly.

     

    Anyone know what is the right resistance is for the Galaxy system?  Options are 0, 1k or 4k7 ohms.

     

    There is also a tamper cascade link.  The instructions from Elmdene and Honeywell don't mention the resistance for the bell box nor the tamper cascade.

     

    Thanks in advance,

     

    Rich

    Zero?

  5. 18 hours ago, Driller said:

    I know that by the book you should power off and remove the battery leads. When I did this before though I lost all the programmed info (Dimension panel) ans had to do it all again which was a pain obviously.

     

    If I’m careful not to cross wires, how much of a no-no is it adding an Ethernet module with the battery still connected?

     

    Otherwise what would be the cause of the loss of programming info? (card aerator removed from backup battery)

    What dimension panel? You got picture of the board?

     

    Asbove , a white card normally under the battery tab , button side down from memory if that makes sense 

     

    Never seen this issue before 

    • Upvote 1
  6. 23 minutes ago, lmor1 said:

    Hi, 

     

    I have a vistronic power master alarm system, I was wondering if anyone knew if I can use the main unit to set the away function as my keypad is not working and struggling to find a replacement keypad as it seems obsolete. I don’t know if I would activate my PIR on the way out of the house after activating it and the same when I come home and open my front door to walk to the main unit and disarm. Any advice would be much appreciated 

    eBay keypads .....

  7. 9 minutes ago, Driller said:

    Sorry, I wasn’t clear at all in my first post: I was trying connect through an internet browser window on my phone and managed to login and surf through all the menus but couldn’t get any images to come up.
     

    Using the Hik-Connect app on the phone all works fine.

     

    Using the laptop (Mac) is fine on the LAN but if I connect through the phone using data, same problem-all the text comes through but no images.

    So using the app on phone is not fine 

     

    ?

     

    Your simply saying using any external connection does not work correctly

  8. 10 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

    Dyn are a big company, I just don't think they take free accounts any more... if that's what your looking for.

    All are external in some way, think of DDNS as an "updating addressbook".

    You always ask the book with your password, it forwards you the new location.

    When I say own, I mean the router manufacturer may have settings to able one via them, a bit like DVR's have.

    I still trying to work out how anyone will use dydns on a dimension , apart from via selfmon

  9. 2 hours ago, Mark_T said:

     

    Is the problem with compatibility with the standards relating to intruder alarms showing the zone, or inclusion of fire alarm functionality?

     

    BS5839-6:2019 seems to be quite positive about the safety advantages of grade C systems over grade D systems, and specifically mentions that grade C systems can be integrated into intruder alarm systems. So, I'm not sure that a grade C system following BS5839-6 incorporated into an intruder alarm is inherently dangerous. However, with the i-onG2SM at least, there do seem to be some difficulties in following all of the recommendations for grade C systems in BS5839-6 using an intruder alarm.

     

    I completely agree about not wanting to have to use the keypad in a fire situation, which is why I had hoped there was a way to automatically display the fire zones (as is required for a grade A fire panels). In my particular situation, a night time fire (or intruder) alarm in the detached garage would need a different response from one in the kitchen, so being quickly aware of the alarm location from the landing RKP would be very helpful.

    Then use a decent fire panel with remote panel to display your issue , or an output box that can trigger a zone per area that you get on an app or something 

  10. 9 hours ago, james.wilson said:

    I use dyndns

    On a dimension?

    13 hours ago, Driller said:

    I have a property with an EE broadband subscription that I took over. Before fitting the ethernet module for the Dimension panel I installed I thought I'd check to make sure the IP was static so I I could ask them to to provide one if necessary.

     

    Answer: "No it's not static"

    "Oh can you give me one please?"

    "No we don't do that"

     

    `Great. I'm assuming the Galaxy App needs a fixed IP address and anyway I'll want one for the CCTV.

     

    Does anyone know if this will work with a DynDns type service and how reliable/unreliable it's likely to be?

     

    Thanks

     

     

    Selfmon 

  11. 2 hours ago, Monte Carlo said:

    The original strobe (Xenon flash tube) did draw a lot of current for what it was, in some cases this would be too much for the "output" transistor so it was suggested a relay be used, but with most modern strobes being LEDs, it is not a problem. (And even then, most bell box xenon strobes were feeble)

    It's a trigger tho not supplying current ?

  12. 13 minutes ago, Bunster said:

    Thanks SWB - point taken!

     

    Al-yeti:  Not sure what you mean by "extension side terminals" 

     

    Attached picture of the unit.  Presently, BT line and alarm dialler going to the internal terminals.  Phone and router plugged into the front.  Where exactly should the alarm dialler wires go?

     

    Thanks!

    IMG_3646[15902].jpg

    I thought this socket had four terminals 

     

    Two on the main incoming where line is where you said you put it, other terminals are normally behind first cover and don't work unless the cover is put back on 

     

     

     

  13. On 18/04/2022 at 19:28, Amps said:

    Why not?

    As a standalone panel with no remote keypad , none of them are very good, although the quantam 70  looks better , easier to maintain with hinged lid , whereas the enforcer has to hang off it's cables , or have they fixed that issue? Is it still difficult to fit extra coms device in in side it ? I think it would do better if they changed the menu style and it's casing 

     

    Apart from that you know it's just a panel that sells on bulk and it's more about money not about the product 

     

    The texecom all in one panel works well , lots of room but looks like a brick 

     

    Quantam comes out in top imo 

  14. 1 hour ago, Bunster said:

    I've just installed a new Mk4 Openreach Master Socket onto our phone line. I connected BT's line and the auto-dialler's cable directly together at the Master Socket's terminals.  Is this correct?

     

    The reason I ask is that after installing the new Master Socket, I did a test activation of the alarm to check that ADT was receiving the signal ok.  ADT confirmed that they received it ok, but when I then did an internet speed test, the speed was almost zero!  I used BT's automatic fault-finding system and after it 'Refreshed' my BT Hub, normal internet speed was resumed.

     

    It seems that the auto-dialler somehow upset our internet connection, so is there a better way to connect it? 

     

    Thanks!  Tim

    As swb says put the filter on and put the dialler on the extension side terminals 

     

    This will all work until you switch to full fibre and the dialler becomes useless 

  15. 16 hours ago, deskjockeyed said:

     

    Indeed, and news just in - it turns out to be the SMS communicator.

     

    The antenna groundplane was bonded to DC negative, the antenna ground was screwed into the case via the mounting nuts, hence a path from DC negative to earth via the panel casing conducting through the SMS communicator antenna.

     

    Well I'll be ******.

    Excellent

     

    I get to keep my wanna be alarm man status ....

  16. 22 hours ago, deskjockeyed said:

    Evening all,

     

    I've got a proper headscratcher of an issue with a few years old Premier Elite 48 that I'm wondering if anyone else has seen?

     

    For reference, the set up is a PE48 control panel, 8XP-W, PSU200XP and Smartcom. Everything as far as I know and can see is set up correctly, including the removal of the 12V+ from the panel to the PSU200XP network terminals. The PE48 panel has 8 x QDs, the 8XP-W, an Odyssey X and an Odyssey 5E and the Smartcom connected to it, as well as an SMS module on the Digicom outputs and supplies all of these with 12V. 

     

    Recently during a battery test (17Ah 12V Yuasa, 2 years old), the current draw of the panel was measured when on mains supply and on battery.

     

    On mains: approx. 300mA @ 13.7V.

    On battery: approx. 10mA (yes, 10mA) @ 13.1V to 12.6V.

     

    This current reading was verified in Wintex, via the current measuring pads on the panel, and via an ammeter in series with the battery - they all measured the same.

     

    How in god's name could it be 10mA?! The panel works fine in battery mode, I can use the keypads, sound the SABs and strobes, connect via Wintex, see the PIRs detecting operating, no fuses blown - the panel draw simply cannot be 10mA.

     

    So far we've tried swapping batteries just in case the battery was knackered, disconnecting SABs, communicators, network devices and aux devices just in case there was a parallel path and double checked the 230V wiring to ensure there's no weirdness there. We also disconnected the battery when the panel was isolated from mains and it died immediately suggesting no parasitic or parallel supply from anywhere? 

     

    Any ideas...? I'm stumped!

     

     

    So charge circuit has a problem or powering via battery terminals 

     

    Change the panel

  17. On 05/04/2022 at 17:29, Tspoon1811 said:

    Hello.

    Please can someone suggest a wired mains powered bell box that I can use on my powermaster pm33. I have an expander module. 

    I used to have a mc30 AC bell box linked to my powermax system which was ok but still requires back up battery and is wireless. I have decided it's time to upgrade to a powermaster pm33 hence my question.

    Thanks in advance

    As swb says best option , wired bell in scb mode using expander board

  18. 2 hours ago, MrHappy said:

     

    neither, however I recently caused a bit of **** storm on facebook

     

    one has a van & there always a back lash about it parking where it should not,

     

    I posted a pic, said I've no issue where it was parked, but the MOT was 6 weeks out of date

     

    que mayhem, I've even got a google review for work saying what an arsehole I'am

    Good thing google reviews don't matter to you....

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