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sixwheeledbeast

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sixwheeledbeast last won the day on June 7

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  1. Then products are irrelevant, your installer of choice will use their own preferred manufacturers. They will have trained on that kit so asking them to fit something else is not the best idea. You should get at least 3 quotes go with the company you feel the most comfortable with, not based on solely the quote price. I'd usually replace all the electronics, but you don't mention age or models of kit. If it's a really old Premier I'd bin it anyway. 4 zones, 3 sirens and 3 exits, seems the weirdest system in the world...
  2. If you get the same manufacturer as the panel you will have EOL OOTB. I don't really rate those cheap Honeywells, some nice quads will be much more reliable. Much better down the line to have end-of-line than double pole to diagnose faults.
  3. Should be compatible if you wired as double pole with commoned tampers. I'd probably replace them.
  4. Lidl bakery useful. Aldi don't like at all.
  5. Morrisons is a bit posh for up here... Heron or Farmfoods maybe?
  6. I don't know of any panel that would chime on close. Yep, as above using a Mimic output and some other logic like a toggle relay or custom outputs would be the way to go.
  7. Like most sounders the Twin alert manual has the wiring instructions for different manufacturers. Aux Tamp / Aux Tamp / Bell / Spk- / 0V / +12V
  8. Not used one. Is the strike time really short? Does the strike lock require the same voltage as the KP? Have you tested your findings with a multimeter? Is it just not wired correctly or some other simple mistake?
  9. It does both. Allowing walk through for Full set and switching to entry for Part sets.
  10. As JW stated the charging rate is in the standard. Larger premier panels have a charging rate selection jumper so you can adjust the rate depending on the battery and make sure it conforms.
  11. If you keep pressing the info/OK button it should run through the faults. If the faults are clear it will let you arm/disarm to clear.
  12. Yep I'd also assume the PIR's are in Auto and sleeping. Door contacts shouldn't do that unless you have programmed them incorrectly. They default to always awake.
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