6 hours ago, al-yeti said:

Due to location and space I would go with solder and any type of wrapping , not gift wrap though

 

?

 

2 hours ago, james.wilson said:

Id solder and heat shrink. Melting temp of ali is quite high compared to a soldering iron. Its not copper pipe you dont need a blow torch

QFA

I wouldn't use wago levers! They're designed for mains rated cables and I'm pretty sure would chewup CCA

Thanks for everyone's input - are we thinking that a regular soldering iron will be able to solder the joint OK? I didn't think it would work. I do have a blow torch for plumbing duty but that is probably not right in this application.

 

 

A regular soldering iron will be fine, if you are unsure have a practice first on some old spare cable.

 

Lots of tutorials on YT.

Thank you for that - I believe there is an offcut of CCA lying about, I will have a go on that. Do I need any particular flux or solder? I have regular plumbing flux and solder, not sure if this is correct for this specialised application?

Need different solder

60/40 electronics solder or most stock the lead free equivalent, flux is in the solder core (rosin).

Do not use plumbing solder it's not suitable.

OK great. I might have some electronics solder already. I know that I definitely have lead and lead free solder for plumbing use but that won't be suitable as mentioned above. Also it is on a large cumbersome reel.

 

Last q - how do I put the system into standby / switch it off - the wiring is live, I don't want to short / damage anything! It's a Texecom Premier Elite 24.

Edited January 17, 20188 yr by MarkJohnson

Safest way is to enter engineer mode and disconnect the cable fully from the panel end, take a clear photo of the connections first to make connecting back up easier.