mikethecamera Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 There isn't a global tamper on the keypad, it's on the data bus, and would come up as keypad tamper. Get hold of a meter and test your auxiliiary voltage and tamper loops. You're not checking for voltage on the tampers, just closed circuits. I have a sneaky suspicion that the bell tamper is going to be your tamper problem, how have you wired the bell?, Have you used a zone for the bell tamper or wired it into your global tamper? If you have no voltage coming out of the 12v DC on the panel, and have used the global tamper, then there will be no -return from the bell, and this would also be the reason your zones are staying open. Quote I've learned so much from my mistakes, I'm thinking of making a few more.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 I seen global tamper through it hence the question Meaning through keypad terminals ,some weird stuff lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james.wilson Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Id of thought the fused side would be pos? Quote securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikethecamera Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 The fused side will be +, the 9651 had thermal fuses, so It won't actually be a 'blown fuse'. However without aux feed to the bell it can't operate and give the neg return to close the tamper (or give the neg signal back) I have a suspicion that somewhere there is a short on the aux, effectively killing the 12v out, or even the panel is U/S, (OP said it was 2nd hand). At the end of the day OP needs a meter, it's just guess work us all trying to diagnose unless we can get some readings from the aux and tamper circuits. Quote I've learned so much from my mistakes, I'm thinking of making a few more.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morph Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Given that the panel is second hand I would suggest getting back to basics first. 1. Disconnect all the wiring other than the keypad cable, mains and battery. 2. Default the panel back to its factory settings. 3. Check how the zones are programmed (wiring type) change it to double pole. 4. Put links in each tamper circuit (both zones and sounder). 5. Close the end station, then check to see if all circuits are clear. 7. If they are then put panel in engineer mode and connect one zone at a time( closing the end station and exiting engineer mode, then checking each zone that its ok before doing the next one) 8. If they are not clear then investigate the issue with the panel first. 9. Once you have all the zones connected correctly and working then move on to warning devices (one at a time) 10. If that doesn't work then I would suggest you need some help from a local engineer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rajbps Posted July 6, 2014 Author Share Posted July 6, 2014 ok success on. pulled everything to a table and started to test. Comes out to be the spring on the tamper switch on the pir was not getting pressed properly in any of the 3 devices. Unit going off installer mode now ) A second question if I may, does anyone know how to install a door detector pls. Here is a pic of what I have. Now to what I understand the yellow and blue one is the tamper. The red and black do they go to a zone or to power 12vand 0 not sure. My bet, goes to a zone and I break the serial link on the tamper loop and add this one as the same in serial. Am i correct? , Raj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datadiffusion Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 (edited) The fused side will be +, the 9651 had thermal fuses, Not the **-UK version, that used trad glass fuses, and which AFAIK (according to Cooper marketing blurb) is still available 'for those wanting an ungraded panel'. Edited July 6, 2014 by datadiffusion Quote So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikethecamera Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Not the **-UK version, that used trad glass fuses, and which AFAIK (according to Cooper marketing blurb) is still available 'for those wanting an ungraded panel'. That was the later 9651, not the one shown in OP's images. Quote I've learned so much from my mistakes, I'm thinking of making a few more.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rajbps Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 Sorry forgot to upload the pic for the door contact. The red and black should it go to the cct(number) and the yellow and blue is the tamper one correct? , raj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikethecamera Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 ok success on. pulled everything to a table and started to test. Comes out to be the spring on the tamper switch on the pir was not getting pressed properly in any of the 3 devices. Unit going off installer mode now ) A second question if I may, does anyone know how to install a door detector pls. Here is a pic of what I have. Now to what I understand the yellow and blue one is the tamper. The red and black do they go to a zone or to power 12vand 0 not sure. My bet, goes to a zone and I break the serial link on the tamper loop and add this one as the same in serial. Am i correct? , Raj Yes, red/black are your zone, blue yellow tamper, although you should have blue yellow split either side of the tamper. Remeber to face the reed switch (glass tube) toward the magnet. Quote I've learned so much from my mistakes, I'm thinking of making a few more.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.