An engineer code wont silence an alarm. Needs to be a valid user code

As I said before, she thinks the code she gave me is correct but perhaps she has forgotten.  Is there a way to reset the pcb to its default settings without a user code?

 

If push comes to shove, I could recommend a new unit.  Presumably something like a G4 Accenta and associated RKP would just wire in to the existing cables?  She has a magnetic key to activate at the moment; would the G4 accept this?

 

I did call Honeywell but as her alarm is no longer sold, they politely told me where to go.

 

Thanks

 

Rex

Edited April 3, 201313 yr by Rekusu

Presumably something like a G4 Accenta and associated RKP would just wire in to the existing cables?  She has a magnetic key to activate at the moment; would the G4 accept this?

I'd assume the current configuration has resistors fitted in each device, this would need changing to suit the new controls

you could use an accenta but it wont be a magnetic device it will be a proximity rfid fob. There is a version on the accenta that accepts prox fobs. But it wont support eol wiring.

Again, many thanks.  I know there is an arguement for getting a professional in when I have to admit to not understanding the terms,  'proximity rfid' or 'eol wiring.'  My only experience is in installing my own Gen4 in a new build house and it is up and running.  Understaning the programming terms was a challange but I figured it out.

 

Googleing 'eol' I would take a guess that explains the resistor across zone 8 on the pcb.  If I cannot get the system working again, I will suggest a new installation using the existing wiring and would by-pass the proximity fob.  She thinks it's convenient, but my system has a 'Set' button to press.  Could not be easier.

 

Rex

You add that fob system to an accenta but eol wiring is using resistors and allows alarm and tamper detection down 2 wires (rather than 4)

If its cabled for eol there may not be enough wires there to convert it to double pole (pair for alarm and a pair for tamper)

If you swap panel a castle eurominiP can be wired EOL and has prox function. You can change the resistance on the panel with some of the castle range but not sure if the mini's have this function

Reviving this thread!

 

Today, I checked all the sensor cables and found that everything is fine.  PIR are all operating, PCB is fine with the correct voltage on the +/- terminals.  However, when everything is powered up, the RKP gives a constant shrill buzz (is that a warning sound?) and displays a flashing bell in the top left, and a flashing battery with X in bottom right.  All the PIr display the red activity light.

 

I have not checked the external sounder (yet) but the internal sounder ni-cad (6V, 170mA) is registering nothing.  It is reasonable to assume the external sound battery is also dead.  But the pcb back-up 12v lead battery, although four year old, is giving 12v on the multimeter.

 

So would the RKP battery warning and buzz be caused by dead batteries?  Do they all have to be AOK to register.

 

Her system has four PIR sensors, one door contact, and two fire alarms.  It was originally hooked up to the phone, but although the wires are still connected, she no longer has a contract.  Would zero phone line alter anything? 

 

Finally, neither her number nor the engineer code changes anything.  I seem to be locked out.

 

Grateful for further advice.

 

Many thanks,

 

Rex

****** batterys can show good voltage.

Drop power ( mains ) and see if your batt is still any good.

Never rely on volts what counts is current

Id wonder why the fuse was blown in the first place. Is it an alarm tone coming from the keypad

likely from the mouse activity, as he has repaired the cable.