Adi Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 when is i started everything was under the boards, not now. I'm not saying it never goes under the boards, depends on whats there. As has been said, no one will pay for it. I really can't be ar**** with it anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reidy Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 when is i started everything was under the boards, not now. I'm not saying it never goes under the boards, depends on whats there. As has been said, no one will pay for it. Absolutely Hey Ho, Lets Go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9651 Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Sometimes its easier under boards, especially if the joists run right with panel location Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Sometimes its easier under boards, especially if the joists run right with panel location Sometimes under, sometimes over; very often a mixture of both. With many modern houses it's harder to have the cabling under. Either way I guarantee if installed correctly they will never be damaged. Well there's always the carpet fitters apprentice but standard cable isn't designed knife proof! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 This just reminded me of a job the other day... Just uploaded piccys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reidy Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Crikey Hey Ho, Lets Go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alterEGO Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 each to their own, i walk away from domestics that won't pay, why bother with them? We use hybrid if chipboard, not many places that you can get down an airing cupbard etc with bell wire and keypad is easy enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petrolhead Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 Point 3. I'd maybe try to use a relay output from the remote opener rx rather than a contact to omit the garage detector, as if you use a contact someone prising the roller shutter up would disable the garage detector, unless I misunderstood your explanation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zerozero Posted April 11, 2011 Author Share Posted April 11, 2011 Thanks all for the replies guys. So if I know where the alarm co would install the PIRs etc, I could run a load of 8 core cable under the boards (I prefer this - safer), get my electrician to install fuse spur label them all up and then get the alarm co in to connect, program and test the unit. Would this save me a lot of the labour cost or where else is the labour? TBH I think I'd quite enjoy programming the thing if I could only get the installation guide. Have since seen them available for purchase a couple of places for a few quid so maybe I'll do this for more research. Petrolhead, so you think I could attach a relay to the receiver of the roller unit somehow - sounds better as you are right - there are 3 entrances to the garage, 1 pvc, 1 internal and 1 roller door. May need some testing to find the correct wire for the signal or are the any good tricks to this? This was installed at the property before so I have no instructions or tech guide. sixwheeled beast - I thought I could get some RMU's and use with the speech and text dialler (up to 16) on just a Premier 48? I've not had an alarm before but I am assuming that if I get a call to say that the alarm has been tripped/tampered - and I am away from home that I would want to somehow validate the alarm? If I can call in and listen to what is going on (after disabling the internal sounder I guess) then I could establish if there was really an intruder and take appropriate action (without having a monitoring co). Also if my family sound the panic alarm for whatever reason I can then listen/talk back. Sounded like quite a good bang for buck considering the rmu's are only a few quid each and it would just be a bit more wiring (which isn't a problem as I will have the floor up/ceiling down anyway and would probably go close to PIRs). But if I want to do it, now is the time to do it as the wiring sounds like the most difficult bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 AFAIK - RMU's must be connected to a AV Module if using multiple RMU's, AV Modules only work with a Premier 88/168 and a COM2400. These all plug-on inside the P88 board. The touch tone telephone controls the mic you are listening to using DTMF via the COM2400, you can make the extension speakers chime "ping tone" with a DTMF command but not speak. Really a correctly installed alarm with good quality kit should never false alarm. So all this audio confirmation seems OTT. A confirmation alternative is to install two Dual Technology sensors in each room and have the Dialler/COM2400 send a intruder (one device) and confirmed signal (two devices). As for the garage door I agree using the garage door fob is more secure than a latch key or shunting a zone. The problem would be connecting the two devices together (depends on the garage door controller). One solution could be to add a new two channel receiver to the existing garage door. The transmitters (fobs) can use one button for door, one for alarm. Alternatively you could call the "alarm" and trigger a relay/unset the system via DTMF, this could lead to big phone bills! - see below. Read me!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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