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sixwheeledbeast

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Posts posted by sixwheeledbeast

  1. I don't work on Galaxy much so can't remember if it's +ve or -ve up, either way worth checking and you shouldn't loose data.

    Maybe not from the manufacturer but had new cells come with thin transparent plastic warning stickers that you easily wouldn't notice and/or covered in bitter alice which can have high resistance spots if you don't clean the contact area.

    Worse thing about the bitter alice stuff is it can be an intermittent issue but tests fine with meter as the probes are sharp.

     

     

  2. Dyn are a big company, I just don't think they take free accounts any more... if that's what your looking for.

    All are external in some way, think of DDNS as an "updating addressbook".

    You always ask the book with your password, it forwards you the new location.

    When I say own, I mean the router manufacturer may have settings to able one via them, a bit like DVR's have.

  3. If you could, it wouldn't conform with latest intruder regs any more. Maybe it has some BS or EN option for compatiblity?

    Connection to an intruder system I would see as an auxiliary, the fire "system" needs to work stand alone without this.

    If not you have a potential hazard waiting to happen when you need it most. In a domestic situation I'd be more interested in finding everyone than messing with a keypad.

  4. Slightly related, the new Amendment 2 changes a number of things around cabling in escape routes.

     

    Only cables allowed are for use in that area, as short as practical.

    LSF, no PVC trunking (even with metal clips) due to smoke emitted.

    Anything low level, full mechanical protection so it can't be pulled from the wall "within arms reach".

  5. I'd nail the fixing band if I had a nailer.

    Spit nailer will do most surfaces, fixy band or metal ties size is adjustable to the job. The cable staples are timber only, one at a time, nice if you are just in bungalows maybe?

  6. Don't use Galaxy much but it's just what the default programming is IIRC. 1=Bell 2=Strobe, you could use whichever they are programmable.

    A dry relay with only one wire isn't connecting to anything on contact changeover.

    FWIW I would also use "bell follow" type output for strobe, to cancel the strobe with the bell like above.

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