[Replacing Bell Box on Honeywell Galaxy 2]

15 minutes of tea drinking and paperwork?

[Replacing Bell Box on Honeywell Galaxy 2]

Congrats on completing your 15 minute job.

As I said originally there is no way to disable the bell, you have to get on with it.

[Replacing Bell Box on Honeywell Galaxy 2]

Some panel delay? Force a -ve trigger from the panel to prove.

[GSM Dialler at reasonable cost]

2G is calls and texts, web browsing is pretty much unusable. 3G was the first step to internet browsing on mobile, it would be mostly unused for that today with modern mobiles and 4G/5G rollout.

Asterisk? So converting POTS to IP, why? As I say need to get internet to site and in that case use an IP product.

[GSM Dialler at reasonable cost]

Who says 2G is an issue? In the UK at least, we have another decade plus before they plan to kill it and reuse the spectrum. There are thousands of tiny 2G devices still out in rural settings that need to migrate to switch off will be slow.

By then I'd be expecting to update the system.

Really professional installers would be recommending a monitoring device to an ARC, that way if the GSM is jammed you have some guarantee of a message via polling, but this is the DIY section so...

Texecom have their own options for GSM but check compatibility with that EOL Premier first.

I'd probably consider some way of getting an internet connection at/to site and using IP if your concerned about 2G sunset and want more flexibility on kit.

Old Premier's have limited support for newer IP products so you may need third party equipment if your keeping the panel.

[Help with Texecom Premier Elite 48 W Live]

You can't call it prosumer if the manufacturer will not provide support for it. Not saying they should as it's not.

It's pretty modern so I wouldn't say its for the bin, if you know how to work it.

[Help with Texecom Premier Elite 48 W Live]

It it's likely working and it just needs setting up for you. Best to persist with finding a Texecom installer really.

Sounds like you are entering the engineers code not the user code., if your getting that message.

 

[Pyronix DIY Upgrade]

Seems fair... it's certainly around the right money, will vary on region a little.

No way your quoting half a day on this, even if it did take that long you quote full days, he didn't install it and may find some issues to resolve too.

Won't find many installers that would install user purchased kit either, as an installer your opening yourself to warranty headaches if there is a fault. 

I would treat this theoretical new system as a takeover, not just a service upon next visit if you had replaced it, much more to check over, some would walk away and quote.

 

You'll likely spend weeks probably months learning how to connect everything and program it with no guarantees it will work correctly. Feel free to browse the DIY Section here for more evidence of that, it's like a revolving door.

Most manufacturers the panel apps have to be registered via an installer, don't fit Euro so not sure.

 

There is more to the job than throwing boxes on the wall, it's a service industry not a fitting industry. You have already said you "want the benefits offered by him" but not the price of the install; you get what you pay for....

[Texecom Alarm Status LED]

The LED diagram in the manual assumes standard LED's so you shouldn't need the current limiting resistor, but you wire it from the terminals like the diagram following polarity.

[Replacing Bell Box on Honeywell Galaxy 2]

Nope put your earplugs in and get on with it, be careful not to zap yourself on the strobe if it fires up.

Some sounders have an engineer hold off that you can trigger but that one will not.

If your not confident how to do it, ask an installer to do it.

 

[Texecom Alarm Status LED]

In the UK we would not allow showing the system status from outside the property, or even within the property without user access. It gives too much information to a potential burglar.

Most standard LED's are 5v forward voltage, are you certain this is a 12v LED? They are available but worth double checking.

External auxiliary kit really be using the Panel Outputs (OP1/2/3/4) on the opposite side of the board to drive this stuff, the digi outputs are lower current mainly for triggering 3rd party coms, they are generally unfused.

Why it's connected to the battery terminals who knows...

[Ademco alarm - tamper]

Either get it serviceable for you to use or have it decommissioned.

Unmaintained alarm systems are a headache waiting to happen.

[How to change engineer code on Orisec panel]

More digging apparently Waitrose is bronze...

https://architecturesideas.com/2018/09/15/the-global-growth-of-the-metal-cladding-industry/

[How to change engineer code on Orisec panel]

12 hours ago, MrHappy said:

this copper cladded building caught my eye, I assume it will go green with age ?

Boughton (nr Chester) Waitrose is like that, I thought similar at construction.

It's a brownish olive colour now, 8 years later. Took a couple of years to loose it's initial shine.

 

[How to change engineer code on Orisec panel]

Bit like Texecom in "User Codes" menu change User00.

It seems like "Texecom Lite" with a more confusing menu and worse documentation...

 

[Cash for Windows]

I also have no idea how each of these database products function but it seems to me all about housekeeping, I'd say you still need that part in there. It just depends how the product search works.

Personally it seems backwards to need to remove data from a database to make it more efficient, that would indicate something is wrong.

If you were designing a database system you could have a "obsolete" checkbox for the product, then an option to hide non-current products during quotes/searches; maybe more granular if needed.

The notes of that product could then have a link to the new product, even if you had a chain of dead product links you would eventually find the current replacement via these.

 

Completely generic data housekeeping ramble - but maybe useful to someone...

Databases and computers are tools, I try to work in a way that the tool does most of the work were possible. If that tool needs replacing the housekeeping should try to be standardised so it's easily compatible with a yet unknown future replacement.

I organise a lot of data by date and any date specific data (files/folders) are stored big endian. I use no whitespace only [a-zA-Z0-9_-] inclusive. Everything is camelCase, compact but easy to read, ordered numbers are prefixed (eg 001) to make them naturally ordered within a location. For obsolete data I need to hang around but not pop up every time in searches I prefix with "ZZZdate-" date being the big endian date I archived/obsoleted.

 

For part numbers most of the above can't be done but the latter or something similar maybe an option to help and shove them to the end of the database, if there isn't a way for the db to handle it.

[Old Sony ip cameras onto hikvision nvrs.]

Get the model numbers and find out if they support an onvif profile.

[Cash for Windows]

Yes boss.

[Cash for Windows]

47 minutes ago, jb-eye said:

Can a mod please give me access to these trade forums?

If it is the issue I suggested earlier it's a Admin only thing, mods can only sweep up and make tea.

 

28 minutes ago, james.wilson said:

It's not in the trade area is it, I'm on mobile so haven't looked

• Home
• Intruder Alarm Section
• Trade Only Area
• Trade IT
• Business Management Software
• Cash for Windows

Above is the nested sub-forums if that helps find it JW.

[Loop resistance for Non-EOL Zone]

No idea, but most panels you can get earth loops like this, hence a method of testing that rules it out.

[Loop resistance for Non-EOL Zone]

How do you know there isn't cable damage and it's not looping back through mains earth?

[Loop resistance for Non-EOL Zone]

Do tests with the contact removed on open and closed circuit, compare difference you'll find your answer.

Never do tests while circuits is connected to the controls.

[Cash for Windows]

1 hour ago, jb-eye said:

I was shot down for mentioning encryption as being an irrelevance.

 

I'd be concerned of those words together. Lets hope your putting your faith in people that know what they are doing.

Here is an example of what I would expect a companies policy should be for any data on portable media.

Also note the attention specifically drawn to laptop power management, you need knowledge to execute but feasible.

[Cash for Windows]

I agree it's no worse than loosing paper jobsheet printouts, but still in an age of data being digital the security industry need to set an example.

Just pointing out that a lot of people don't consider what is lost when engineers loose devices. It's depends on your policies and even then employees may not think that way.

They may take screenshots of jobsheets (intentionally or by accident) store customer/engineers codes, manuals and other media. Having an encrypted device is a catch all for any company data not just your database.

 

[Cash for Windows]

It's muddying the water but it will still be on the device for a limited amount of time if the data is downloaded to the remote device, rather than parsing it remotely from a server.

Wouldn't be easily accessible but possibly recoverable from a missing device that wasn't encrypted.

Anything portable needs to be encrypted media IMO, too easy for it to go missing. Not to mention how bad it looks when you have ICO breathing on you when it's found and you didn't report it thinking there was nothing of importance to report.