sixwheeledbeast
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Posts posted by sixwheeledbeast
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It does say that in the manual. I can't see how it functions the same, especially when one does a functional test of the relay output and the other doesn't....
Makes no difference for the last post.
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Using the Aux input the panel knows to expect the test if it's programmed at a fault and not a tamper, with a zone you'll have to program that zone attribute.
I'd do what I suggested in a previous post before taking anything apart to see if the fault will clear. I'm still sus it's not wired correctly somehow.
You should be able to disable them completely from the panel via the engineer hold off, yes.
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That's only G2 tho, so missing your fault pairs you need to series.
I forgot the microswitch wire replaces the return wire between the boxes.
Just because it's been fine doesn't mean it's wired so it will work, maybe it is, maybe not.
MSW terminals are just for the boxes not to be wired back to anything.
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Having to series the microswitch, return and fault terminals correctly in a proper JB sounds like a PITA...
Usually best to loop in and out of the first box.
If it's not wired correctly it may just be a tamper between the two boxes as the tamper return may still be closed elsewhere...
Using the test wire requires wiring as per Texecom recommendations otherwise you'll get faults on every test signal.
The panel has to be programmed to expect the test is happening if you use Zones instead of fault input.
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I'd consider just replacing the battery part BAT-0001 if everything else looks serviceable.
Try triggering the strobe and see if they activate, then just the bell trigger and see if it clears hold-off.
I've not sure it will be the battery, you don't have the Test input wired from what I gather.
This runs the test using the test timer which triggers the fault output on the bell to open if the tests fail.
Not only is there added complexity having a G3 bell but you have two which is a mess to get right having to series everything.
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What's wrong with the existing siren?
Auxiliary type reports an alarm silently on the display which is probably fine for your needs.
Grade 3 boxes fault output are designed to be wired to the Aux Input and that input programmed as Fault (Sys Config), if your looking for the Texecom suggested way to do this.
Either way it all seems overkill, G3 fault detections wouldn't offer much benefit on a domestic over G2 and regular testing.
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Wired the strobe to the siren and it's got strobe on arm switched on?
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Not seen these for years they were only ever composite and the batteries drained out very quick to be useful.
Still being sold on bird/animal watching websites but expensive for what they are IMO.
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Powermax before they were Visionic?. Seen the odd one branded as other things.
No idea if they use a similar manual. It will be 1 way wireless and for the bin anyway....
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I would always use sensors with sealed optics to avoid any possibility of this.
Optex, Bosch, Texe Capture are some examples.
You need to diagnose if it's the system or the environment if you want to work it out.
Proper engineers would do this, some would just without diagnosis throw a sensor at it and escape on their horse....
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Check the voltage, connections and cable are good.
Consider replacing the sensor.
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It's DIY stuff I doubt many here will have fitted it.
I would look on the label of the DVR to see if it says how much current it requires.
Then you can work out which is correct.
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It would likely need an installer reset on any tampers if it was under contract in the past.
You wouldn't have the engineer code as an end user.
Consider having an installer take it over and service it.
They can program it how you want and you have a record it's operational and fit for purpose.
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Installer should be able to make the part set silent.
Which model Galaxy?
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I'd get rid, flaky Risco stuff.
But yes it's totally wireless detection so replace devices too.
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From what I remember it replaces the banner message with TEST FAILED upon failure, this will display until engineer reset.
Not something used often as you loose the detection while it's on soak.
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Trail and error to find +ve/-ve, then use meter and further testing on a -ve to locate the rest?
A company would decommission the siren and resite at an accessible location, not recommission a box you can't access safely.
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1 hour ago, CarlM said:
Advice appreciated.
I will not be installing!
Many thanks.
Then products are irrelevant, your installer of choice will use their own preferred manufacturers.
They will have trained on that kit so asking them to fit something else is not the best idea.
You should get at least 3 quotes go with the company you feel the most comfortable with, not based on solely the quote price.
I'd usually replace all the electronics, but you don't mention age or models of kit.
If it's a really old Premier I'd bin it anyway.
4 zones, 3 sirens and 3 exits, seems the weirdest system in the world...
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1 hour ago, MrHappy said:
I see Texecom tat ?
Where?
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If you get the same manufacturer as the panel you will have EOL OOTB.
I don't really rate those cheap Honeywells, some nice quads will be much more reliable.
Much better down the line to have end-of-line than double pole to diagnose faults.
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Should be compatible if you wired as double pole with commoned tampers.
I'd probably replace them.
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Lidl bakery useful. Aldi don't like at all.
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Morrisons is a bit posh for up here... Heron or Farmfoods maybe?
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37 minutes ago, Kyle92 said:
I have the same problem... Can you help in correcting thisOn 07/01/2025 at 10:22, sixwheeledbeast said:So you've proven the wiring and that it's likely the programming...
Yes, you should always default them from new.
Texecom V4.00 Issues
in Members Lounge (Public)
Posted
Was there a reason to revive an 8 year old thread to bitch about kit you stopped using 3 years ago?
Firmware is currently 6.06.2 and this thread is about wireless keypads on V4.
Clearly the kit wasn't for you just use something else. I don't have any issues with any Texe stuff I use but whatever...