PeterJames

You should only connect one sensor per zone unless they are none powered devices such as door contacts panic buttons etc. If you connect two sensors to one zone and have a false alarm it becomes difficult to tell which detector activated. Its less so with non powered devices as they normally either work or dont work. If you have a false alarm from a non powered device you can and it still works you can normally tell which one is failing by its resistance. Using EOL doubles the devices lowers the amount of cores needed, it also means that the panel can tell you high resistance tamper faults when there are problems with the cable. It can be fiddly fitting EOL resistors in the detectors (some come with EOL's onboard and you just use the dipswitch's for the right values) Most detectors have a 15 metre range if you have rooms bigger than this and want to use two motion detectors in the same room, try to make sure the coverage does not overlap. If overlapping coverage is unavoidable then use two different protocols such as a PIR and a Dual Tech. This is a requirement for monitored systems but it is also good practice for all systems. After a false alarm people tend to look at the log and see the last thing that activated and not get the full story from the log, it just means that they end up with several false alarms before the cause is found. Its great you son is involved in this, one of my NSI inspectors was on the Autistic spectrum, a bit of a strange character, but very very thorough and if something wasnt right he would find it.

What about current draw? As Happy mentions are the devices (inc bells) connected wireless

how many psu's?

How many devices attached?

Its unlikely to be the power to the house failing as the customer would notice clocks not working etc. Could be an induced problem on the data line check for AC noise set meter to ac put one lead on earth the other on 12vdc anything over 5v is a problem. Do you have any psu's? Are they commoned up properly ? Whats the current draw? Was this a panel upgrade from an old Galaxy or something? The switch mode PSU's are not as forgiving as the older transformer style if your drawing too much the panel will do this. Not sure if the Pyronix uses resettable fuses but if your getting intermittent shorts on the 12vdc Aux this could cause the PSU to overload before the Aux fuse and then it all resets You could try the panel on a temporary flying mains lead and plug it in to the nearest 3 pin plug socket. When you changed the panel did you change the RKP? If none of the above fix it wire rkp directly to panel on a short lead. If still a problem, Ive heard good things about Orisec

I'd start at the external and internal Sounders in that order, Once you have removed those then you can down power and remove the rest

From what Ive seen of similar recorders that we have ripped out they seem to run on 2Amp or above, the recorder will probably work on either to be fair. Pro recorders will normally have bigger, cameras will draw 500mA quiescent and 1Amp peak a bit more if they are IR or have lights

Looks a bit like an arun elite, chub used to use Racall Guardall for all their stuff so maybe its a Windsor in disguise

I dont know, if they were checking for valid emails im not sure if what they are doing would work. They wouldnt get the bounce back the site submitting the ticket would. Its not the sites submitting the ticket either I got one from Southern Water the other day and the ticket email add seems legit. I am actually having work done with Southern water so I could compare the address and the stupid terminology they use (I think they assume everyone they speak to is a plumber) It could be some sort of dos thing but not very effective.

Like probably most of you I have a few email addresses. just recently (the last six months) Ive noticed Im getting a lot of tickets open messages from random places in my old address. apart from it being a bit irritating they didnt bother me I just ignored them. Now Im getting them on my main email address, not hundreds but 5 or 6 a week. Obviously they have been raised by a bot of some description and they must be doing something some sort of phishing. I cant work out what info they hope to gain and Im not sure if tere is anything I can do to prevent them. Is anyone eles getting them? Example

Did you buy them from the link I sent you?

There is normally a label on the metal box detailing the model number. Its unlikely that you will have the engineers code ADT do not give this out to customers, nor do any other alarm companies for that matter. As SWB has said the volume can be changed to silent part, but this is not a user option. If the panel is out of contract you can use any company that is willing to take it on. Be aware ADT sell mostly monitored alarm systems and so you may find that there is no external sounder only a dummy box.

I can sell them as trade depending on quantities cheapest would be £1.00 ea

The wiring is only going to the bell, keypad, and wireless expander. If you have a multimeter and know how to use it then testing if the wiring is good is simple. But the fact that you have to ask how would say to me that you dont. I wouldnt advise replacing the panel over reviving the old Gardtec stuff, its obsolete for a reason. As the panel and detection is all wireless, the best solution is to replace it with similar. You could DIY it if you are feeling brave enough (what could possibly go wrong?) . Or you could get a company in to do it properly for you.

Since 2019 Yes, Hikvision equipment is effectively banned in the US