al-yeti
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Posts posted by al-yeti
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On 14/09/2021 at 19:13, PeterJames said:
If the chicklets work then I can sell you some that work with Paxton, but I always thought Paxton used Hitag 2 locked with a pword
Net 2 or Switch 2?
Is there a Paxton reader standalone? That you can use on an intruder input , so that users can't copy the fobs
Have a site where they have this problem , can switch to codes but want to stop fobs from being copied
Or am I in wrong direction here
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2 hours ago, norman said:
Used to do loads of Jewellery shops around Bradford, Huddersfield, Halifax etc. High targets for robbery due to the purity and ease of moving on.
I also spent quite a lot of time on this site with the owner, Daniel who seemed very unassuming and a generally nice guy. They who used to smelt gold for people walking in off the street lol.
Met a banker yesterday on install (metro)
Latest gang trend
Accomplice sits inside waiting for appointment or to be seen to make excuses to sit and wait
Watches who walks out with what
Either mugged on street
Car broken into
Or house raided later
Easier than doing the bank or the house it seems
One gang got caught , woman mugged outside bank , she ran in screaming , bank automatically shuts down
Of course accomplice got stuck inside and got nicked.....
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12 hours ago, james.wilson said:
I'd go with brum due to the 'bulletproof' glass. Either needed or hoped for. I still say it isn't bulletproof
Don't need glass break detectors for that
I do hope the op and chubb sort it out though hopefully without double knock on any circuit
Glasgow?
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3 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:
Chance of panel being duff is low.
I'd have defaulted and isolated things at the time.
With only engineers keypad on, if it's still the same then consider panel or firmware.
Yes , agreed but with above description and desperate it will give him peace of mind if that at all makes sense , I still do some stupid stuff .......
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3 hours ago, MrHappy said:
I guess you either in the Bronx or Tooting ?
Brighton
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7 hours ago, Monsur said:
Hello everyone,
I am a migrant from Africa, Nigeria to be precise, I'm a security system engineer with Verse knowledge of Access control systems, surveillance system, intruder alarm system, fire detection system etc... I have not been able to practise on this field since I migrated to the UK . I am looking for any opportunity to build on my experience here in the UK, Any advise or guidance will be greatly appreciated.
I'm in Avon Bristol and I have got the right to work in the UK.
Best Regards
Monsur
Have you done any courses yet that will help you
Perhaps tavcom still do them look online
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35 minutes ago, MrHappy said:
okay, I had issues with the programming syncing via the cloud & not reflecting the latest change
I'd firmware upgrade it with temporary smartcom or pull the pcb & replace the pcb ?
Pull PCB first day of fault was always best maybe
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7 hours ago, Longshanks said:
the log is only showing normal events like set unset etc. nothing looks out of place.
So then the board doesn't cost that much if it means breaking even or at a slight loss , change it and faff around in the office with it
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13 hours ago, PeterJames said:
LOL!
I need to do bullet proof glass on my installs.....
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4 hours ago, Hpatz1 said:
So if I the shock sensors on double knock to prevents false alarms from someone banging the window. This wouldn’t be grade 3?
No shutters?
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45 minutes ago, Hpatz1 said:
We have a motion sensor but if glass is broken this won’t set the motion sensor off
What kind of frames ?
Shocks could work provided no one bangs on the windows at night
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1 hour ago, MrHappy said:
unless the items have a volt free relay which changes state when they go into fault....
I think your wasting your time ?
Why? He could hook it up a panel with inputs and programmable outputs
?
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7 hours ago, Cieska said:
I'm never had in my hands this module and there is not much great info o the net abut it. But let me know if I'm really have no clue what it is.
From very poor quality picture on manufactures website I can see that it has no Ethernet port, I don't believe that it has external header for ethernet socket, that you have to buy separately. But in description its clearly stating that is "Ethernet" and in some lines even mentioned "LAN".
Only what I see is that manufacture this size has being lazy to make two different descriptions for two very different devices.
https://prod-edam.honeywell.com/content/dam/honeywell-edam/hbt/en-us/documents/literature-and-specs/datasheets/HSGGT204001EN0512DSE%20pdf.pdf even herein the table the first row states that both modules supports Etherne.
Same here https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/intruder-alarm-c-36/intruder-alarm-ancillaries-c-36_46/honeywell-galaxy-dimension-gprsip-communications-module-p-3244.html
So before I extend my complain let me know if I'm just wrong here and I need to go and review Wikipedia what's relates LAN and Ethernet? Or this device is just GSM type of device even it does carries the IP, but to plug in to it Ethernet plug, you have to have different module, for example like this https://buildings.honeywell.com/gb/en/products/by-category/building-management/networking/network-cards-and-modules/galaxy-dimension-ip-module ?Cheers for the beers
Dude one is clearly gsm other is lan
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13 hours ago, Grego said:
The system does set and unset, it just gives that message when unset. Occasionally we also see a message BOOT-UP, but the OMIT ZONES happens each time the system is unset.
Make video
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1 hour ago, Grego said:
Turns out I had the Program Outputs Polarity (53.3) the wrong way around, it needed positive polarity and not negative. I also set Mode 53.2 to LATCH, which I assume is the default setting. So the siren appears to be working, both in bell test and a full set test.
I am planning on replacing the external siren/strobe... so perhaps the professionals on here could recommend a suitable domestic siren/strobe.
Which ones are available out there ?
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1 hour ago, Grego said:
Starting to wire up the window zones (as previously discussed). My existing system (see photo below) had resistors across the common pin and zone pin (circled in blue), and a resistor in series with the windows (circled in red). That is because my current system is zone doubling.
I assume on the new galaxy FX100+ (because I am not planning on zone doubling) I just follow the diagram as previously discussed here in my Previous Post and will only need a single 1k resistor as per the one circled in red above?
Hate to keep asking, so please excuse my questions. Once I have my head around this for one zone I will be fine.
Speaker wire?
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9 hours ago, Grego said:
Sadly it was a 4 core basic cable, that was run inside the window frames whilst the house was in frame stage. I am older and some might say wiser now... but that doesn't help me deal with what younger me installed
I'll go with SEOL for now, and whilst I agree with the expertise on here that the approach I am planning on taking is not ideal, unfortunately right now options are limited.
GalaxyGuy who supplied me the FX100+ system would be horrified with the setup I am sure
Use one of these at far end and link two windows , perhaps you can seperate them this way rather all the windows on one circuit
Just now, al-yeti said:Use one of these at far end and link two windows , perhaps you can seperate them this way rather all the windows on one circuit
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1 hour ago, MrHappy said:
Tat alarms & naff doorbells is what the public want...
Door bells scare people away
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1 hour ago, Kaizen Security said:
I have seen many diffrent installation styles over the years, Clips vs staples, surface run vs hidden, taught vs slack.
Personaly I take pride in my 1st fix and cabling and do it properly but that does slow you down. The work I observed with a contractor on a new build housing estate was so slopppy that I pulled him up on it, his justification was that he had targets to hit and they dont pay him enough to give a ****
And there seems to be the problem paying **** money to general contractors under pressure to get the job done as quickly as possible.
If I had paid good money for a new house I would expect the cable for the window sensor to be run through the upvc window frame and under the window sill not surface run and poorly clipped
As mentioned BS7671 is a good place to start for general regs
What if windows already in? It still doesn't need to be surface mounted btw.....
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15 minutes ago, Grego said:
I have several zones that are made up of windows that have reed switches and they go back to my current panel. The reed switches dont have individual resistors, and retro fitting is not an option. I assume I can install a 1k resister as per the diagram? Or do I need to do something else?
All guidance appreciated.
Are they looped from window to window or some other configuration?
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19 hours ago, MrHappy said:
cool, is my password still Dave2468 ?
Now it's MCD2468
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5 hours ago, james.wilson said:
I wonder how long it will be till these exploits are used to break in to places because ilthe cctv will show what time people leave and that the place is empty etc
I think with ring , if you can hack the cameras same app is there security system
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3 hours ago, MrHappy said:
I've got love for you if you where installed in the 80's (80's)....
I assume this, but it will 25 years or more since I've seen one ?
These should be as easy as any other bell to connect
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5 hours ago, MrHappy said:
Buying Grade 3 components is not going to result in you having a Grade 3 alarm.
will get grade 3 headache though.....
Paxton reader fobs - Alternatives
in Members Lounge (Public)
Posted
You mentioned before , but why don't intruder switch to Paxton type coded fobs etc
Simply cost right ?
I want it for a hkc panel so staff can't copy the fobs