MrHappy

you've put resistors in the circuit & selected normally closed as the zone wiring ?

if your panel has key switch input ? (I only remove 'em) - 5 - 32volt sonoff, However the correct advice is have something fit for propose. The people you annoy with your alarm(s) will have a local council have a website with similar advice - Noise pollution - Burglar alarms Burglar Alarms If you have a burglar alarm fitted to your home or business then by law you have a duty to ensure that it will not cause a nuisance to residents in the locality. eg prevents them from sleeping If this occurs, and the alarm is not turned off, then the council can take further action. If the Council is required to deal with an alarm causing a statutory nuisance, the owner will be asked to pay any costs incurred. There a number of steps you can take to ensure your alarm does not cause a nuisance. Ensure that any alarm fitted to your premises is properly designed. (The British Standard for intruder alarms is 4737 - your alarm should comply with this). Ensure that a legitimate alarm engineer, who will be able to set the sensors to the appropriate sensitivity, fits your alarm. This will prevent the alarm sounding unnecessarily. Ensure that an alarm engineer, ideally on a contract, maintains your alarm regularly so that you don't forget! Ensure that your alarm is fitted with a cut-off device to deactivate the siren or bell after 20 minutes. Ensure that at least one of your nominated key holders can respond within 20 minutes of being called out. What happens when the Council gets involved when an alarm causes a statutory nuisance? Once the Police are satisfied that there is no criminal activity taking place at the premises, and the Council is satisfied that the noise of the alarm is causing a statutory nuisance, then a legal notice will be served requiring the alarm to be silenced - normally within a short period of time. If this is not complied with then an application will be made to the Duty Magistrate for a warrant to enter the premises. The Council will engage the services of a locksmith and an electrician, and they will obtain access to the premises and disconnect the alarm. The Council will ensure that upon leaving, the premises is left in a secure condition. This whole process may take several hours. Who has to pay if an alarm has to be disconnected? The costs incurred by the council during this process will be recharged to the occupier of the premises. This can be expensive and will include the Council's costs, the costs of the locksmith and the electrician.

6 grand is going to be a good sized building- As guess if you have an ungraded Accenta type alarm in a building of this scale, it false alarms as it has neither the required voltage or current to power a system needed in large commercial building I assume you have buildings & contents insurance ? Should something untoward happen, say metal thieves break in one evening rob a bit of cabling, they accidentally or deliberately cause a fire.... I would be very surprised if your DIY / sparky special type of alarm complied with the normal requirements of stated to provide insurance cover

Being blunt, your alarm sounds like a pile of shit. Have you considered putting your hang in your pocket & having a proper one installer by a proper co. ?

Oh ..

a what ?

nice looking idea

every cloud has a silver lining your probably better looking when its dark ?

just bin it,

they don't have blue light & probably have to lock up a site before leaving

I believe its high pressure door to door selling of tat.... Its been happening since the the 1980's if not earlier ??

@datadiffusion I saw this & thought as you, Installed last year, upgraded to a verisure system- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164834532394?hash=item2660e75c2a:g:~pkAAOSwXKhgeZWc

you flash git.... fancy throwing out a 25yr old + alarm panel

Its pile of old tat which wants ripping out & replacing The zones which don't work may not be in the area which is set IIRC the panels software scans the zones from high to low, under certain circumstances movement in an unset zone will trigger an alarm. They all do odd thing like the entry tone or alarm tone will continue when unset/ silenced, entering a walk test will stop it

I have you tried 6969 ?

I have a chinky tat one than is slung in the van https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303417798295?hash=item46a51c2e97:g:QZsAAOSwz-dgjDuF

What colour is his horse ?

no, its a common misconception that 1 controls panel is going power anything you can think of putting on it

ah why ? I assume your naïve enough to expect to power all this from a single control panel ?

disconnect all the wiring inside the panel link from 0v to bell tamper inside the controls

remove every device off the alarm, link out every zone, link the bell tamper out, holding down the panel spring tamper.... can you exit engineering ??

@Honda3 find a local tame alarm man, get them to price via email to replace the controls, battery & external bell. they'll measure all the cables & currents if they've 1/2 a brain... I'd assume your cables are stapled under the carpets ? Replace the fuse & tread on every inch of carpet where a cable might be lurking ?

Don't forget the Mitcheldean witch trials- Any strange bleep from a powered down alarm, needs the services of an exorcist.. I used to be medium, but as I got fatter my shirts are now all large.

probably a kidde carbon monoxide detector ?

anyone got the no. for derek acorah ? I know he;s dead but that should not be a problem....