MrHappy

type risco agility 3 installer manual into google & the 1st result is pdf file.

they go bat shit with age, default it all & reprogram

if you do if for a living its easy enough the fault with normally be, cable, device or controls is their power at every keypad ? no = check power is provided for the keypads at the controls / power supplies then check wiring & the data line is terminated with 680omhn (or whatever) ect.. should the wiring prove okay, put each 1 keypad on data bus at the panel on short length of wire with 680omhn resistor (or whatever) to terminate the data , if every keypad don't work its probably the controls if you can afford a dog & home / property big enough for 4 keypads, you be in position for the maintainer of your security system to pop along during the week & short it out for you ?

Buy a dog ?

as the OP Is never coming back - Why does he have the ghost of ronnie barker trapped in his gardtec product ?

this sorta thing ?

nowt, I used to do this & the other building opposite for the landlord. The one is the pic is a 1st & 2nd floor HMO, Shop & the building on the corner is a Pizza shop I'd priced to replace a Newlec with a Kentec panel + add 2 repeaters some years ago.. he told me how much he 'd been quoted & asked me to match it... It was something laughable The other premises has is similar, 2 shops + HMO. Haes controls which I rather liked.

i think they broke the budget & went with doubled side tape ? the good stuff to put no. plates on

Does the plug top mean it needs pat testing too ?

Iirc the mcp ain't Apollo ? But the heads are ?

zone invert ? doing a full default will prove if you've mong'd the programming ? remove all the wiring & place back one circuit at time...

Zone disable suite ?

cool, usual thing of cable, device or controls if the cable is laid under the boards in a manner its trapped or damaged by a pipe, walking around on the floor above it may send the alarm batshit, something drawing lots of current, eg too much stuff on small controls may send the alarm batshit something odd is happening , check all the fuses are the correct rating eg- some mong may have a 5amp fuse where a 1amp belongs & when it draws too much current it batshits the alarm & does not blown the fuse with the tamper tied down gently press parts of the endstation pcb to see if it goes batshit check both continuity of all the all cables & then take them apart & check there is no shorts on every pair ? or change you mobile no. & find a new friend with a working alarm ?

are you an alarm man or diy'er ?

cables under carpets ?

default & reprogram, if it does it again , replace controls after check the cables.... is this just a system just a single EWD, 1 keypad, 1 speaker & a handfull of pir ?

Outside box ringing ? or something different ?

With only one arm & one leg, he'd have a blue badge so he could park his Citroen on a double yellow line ?

for you €280 ?

I've been waiting with baited breath for the results....

Euro 280...

lots of video's... however I'm pretty sure he's never worked at a proper alarm co.

are you a slow reader ? what plonkers have you been talking too ? phone lines are finished for alarm signaling.... you need to put your hand in your pocket & buy a proper alarm from a proper alarm company with proper signaling

soak test - an intruder alarm zone will not generate an alarm for the duration of the soak test just log' display it as a fault eg- you've a warehouse with DT900 it false alarms... you've checked the cables & the voltages blah, blah.... you reckon it might be the detector or it might be the vermin you pop a new detector on & place it on 14 day soak test, if does not FA in the next 14 days it becomes a intruder zone on the system again with no more action to take if it fails the soak test "soak failure" will be on the display & when the alarm FA'd in the middle of the night nobody got called out...

Cheap enough to swap a PCB if you want to support yet another platform ?