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Honeywell Galaxy Flex 20 > PIR Wiring


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Hi All,

Hoping someone is familiar with the Honeywell Galaxy Flex 20 System?

Ive purchased one to fit at the new house as its something I have had an interest in..... However, I might have bitten off more than I can chew!

I have 3 different wiring instructions from the panel instructions, PIR instructions and general alarm fitting guide. Im trying to validate I have the correct PIR wiring method before wiring up the 10 PIR's! The PIR's are DT8012F5's with 6 terminals.

From what I can work out the PIR's should be wired as the image I have drawn. Can someone just confirm before I spend the day wiring them up wrong! :)

IMG_0319.jpg

Edited by RevolvingSteve
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11 minutes ago, RevolvingSteve said:

Ok, so take the brown core for example into NC and pair it into 0v with the yellow at the board?

Yes , not familiar with flex 20 but don't they have a seperate zero volts aux power ?

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Your diagram is fine. There's only one common 0v on the galaxy, as per all Galaxy, so your link in the detector is fine. Detectors these days are very low current, so there is seldom any need to double up power cores.

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3 minutes ago, GalaxyGuy said:

Your diagram is fine. There's only one common 0v on the galaxy, as per all Galaxy, so your link in the detector is fine. Detectors these days are very low current, so there is seldom any need to double up power cores.

 

Many thanks GalaxyGuy for the confirmation, appreciate your time, sure it won't be the last question! :)

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  • 2 weeks later...
1 hour ago, RevolvingSteve said:

Im going to run out of PIR zones as there are only 12 on the board.  'Garage' for example I am happy to have both PIR on 1 zone.  Thought that was OK, but please advise if Im being dumb!

So you need to buy a Rio to expand the wired zones 

 

Galaxyguy if your reading? 

 

Is flex20 same as g series you can use any zone as wired and wireless

 

If that's correct buy a Rio , expand fully and then do what you have to do

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  • 1 month later...

Right, after 3 weeks of Xmas madness I got back onto this today. 

 

Fired the alarm up and I have one fault which is 'Tamper O/C' on zone 12 (1018 from memory), which is the door contact for the back door.  The issue I have is that the door contacts only have 2 wires (Black/Red) so they don't seem to have a tamper circuit or anywhere to fit a resistor?

 

I presume this is done at the board, but should the resistor just be inline on the '12' terminal?

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11 minutes ago, RevolvingSteve said:

The issue I have is that the door contacts only have 2 wires (Black/Red) so they don't seem to have a tamper circuit or anywhere to fit a resistor?

 

I'd assume your mickey mouse contacts could be made usable with a jb or soldiering iron ?

Mr? Veritas God

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5 minutes ago, MrHappy said:

 

I'd assume your mickey mouse contacts could be made usable with a jb or soldiering iron ?

 

Yep, maybe I just bought the wrong ones!

 

Ive just checked and here:

https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/intruder-alarm-c-36/door-contacts-switches-c-36_44/cqr-grade-3-white-surface-door-contact-with-magnetic-detection-p-4714.html

 

It seems to imply they do have resistors? Am I just being thick?

Edited by RevolvingSteve
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Looking at this page:
https://www.cqr.co.uk/images/stories/cqr_pdf/Magnetic Contacts/Surface Contacts.pdf

 

Looks like I've ordered the wrong one! They are pre-wired but Ive got type B:
Type B Resistor (For Scantronic, Cooper, Pyronix PCX, Texecom, Castle-Care Tec G3+) [SC513/WH/G3/B] - 4k7 Ohm Switch, 2k2 Ohm Tamper

 

I need Type A:
Type A Resistor (For Honeywell, Microtech (Galaxy) - 1k Ohm Switch, 1k Ohm Tamper

 

Rookie error I think! 

 

Edited by RevolvingSteve
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1 hour ago, RevolvingSteve said:

Looking at this page:
https://www.cqr.co.uk/images/stories/cqr_pdf/Magnetic Contacts/Surface Contacts.pdf

 

Looks like I've ordered the wrong one! They are pre-wired but Ive got type B:
Type B Resistor (For Scantronic, Cooper, Pyronix PCX, Texecom, Castle-Care Tec G3+) [SC513/WH/G3/B] - 4k7 Ohm Switch, 2k2 Ohm Tamper

 

I need Type A:
Type A Resistor (For Honeywell, Microtech (Galaxy) - 1k Ohm Switch, 1k Ohm Tamper

 

Rookie error I think! 

 

Your panel came with resistors somuse them dude if that makes sense

 

Someone's already done a drawing somewhere here 

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31 minutes ago, MrHappy said:

program the values to suit the contact ?

 

If that's possible? I'll have to consult the manual....

 

8 minutes ago, al-yeti said:

Your panel came with resistors somuse them dude if that makes sense

 

Someone's already done a drawing somewhere here 

 

The drawing is mine, but that's fine for the PIR's, this is for door contacts with resistors moulded into the unit so I cant get to them.

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36 minutes ago, MrHappy said:

program the values to suit the contact ?

 

FROM MANUAL:

<<<>>>

Zone configuration

The default zone configuration is 1 kΩ double-balanced with fault monitoring via a 3 kΩ resistor (preset 11). In the following configuration a mask condition is generated if an alarm and fault are signalled at the same time.

 

If required, reprogram zone configurations and the resistance preset values using the Zone Resistance menu (51 ent 46 ent).

<<<>>>

 

So looks like it can be done! I'll test it tomorrow :)

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On 12/01/2019 at 21:31, RevolvingSteve said:

FROM MANUAL:

<<<>>>

Zone configuration

The default zone configuration is 1 kΩ double-balanced with fault monitoring via a 3 kΩ resistor (preset 11). In the following configuration a mask condition is generated if an alarm and fault are signalled at the same time.

 

If required, reprogram zone configurations and the resistance preset values using the Zone Resistance menu (51 ent 46 ent).

<<<>>>

 

So looks like it can be done! I'll test it tomorrow 

 

Im just about to sort this, however, I have 2 doors on the same circuit (its the same room), so do I still use 2k2? Or will it double/halve if there are 2 x 2k2 on the circuit?

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You have the wrong contacts.

Either use separate circuits or get contacts compatible with double door configuration.

You can't just string them together to make up the values, shunt resistors need to be parallel with the detection reed and tamper is in series with the whole circuit (preferably at the furtherest point of the wiring).

In using non standard values with the panel, you will often loose the ability for different wiring configurations as it's a workaround anyway.

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4 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

You have the wrong contacts.

Either use separate circuits or get contacts compatible with double door configuration.

You can't just string them together to make up the values, shunt resistors need to be parallel with the detection reed and tamper is in series with the whole circuit (preferably at the furtherest point of the wiring).

In using non standard values with the panel, you will often loose the ability for different wiring configurations as it's a workaround anyway.

 

OK that's very useful information. 

 

It looks as though the resistance value in menu 51 ent 46 ent applies to all zones (although I only had a quick look).  I think its probably just easier to buy the correct Honeywell Resistance version as they were only about £8!

 

So I guess the same applies to the 2 x Bell housings (my other tamper issue, these are wired in series as per the instructions from the Manufacturer), but Ive not worked out where to put the 1k resistor yet.  From your comment I should put it in the furthest BH on the tamper circuit return?

 

Many thanks for the help, I provide a lot of advice on a AF Forum, but feel like a school kid when it comes to alarms! :) Good community.

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13 minutes ago, RevolvingSteve said:

So I guess the same applies to the 2 x Bell housings (my other tamper issue, these are wired in series as per the instructions from the Manufacturer), but Ive not worked out where to put the 1k resistor yet.  From your comment I should put it in the furthest BH on the tamper circuit return?

 

If you are talking about external sounder tampers they work completely differently. Very few have EOL resistors.

Most are a closed loop that "sends" a negative through all the tamper circuits of the bells and brings them back as a "tamper return".

Some external sounders have weird multiple tamper wiring configurations, you also need a SCB or LC compatible bell or extra PSU to have multiple of them.

I would start a separate thread for your sounder issue with details of the models of kit and maybe pictures of the terminals.

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