Should I Use Magnetic Contacts?

[JonP]

Not at all, post away.

Excellent, please see attached.

[Oxo]

  Kitchen, use a contact on the door as well.

Might have a pet to look after, ect.

Add some smoke/heat/CO detection.

[JonP]

Will fit a door contact as suggested, thanks Oxo.

 

There will be a Kidde optical detector just outside the kitchen door and ionisation on the landing - both inter-linked.

 

Thanks for your help on this.

 

Jon

[sixwheeledbeast]

I would always install a front door (entry) contact.

As for the rear door it could come in useful, as above.

[arfur mo]

Door contact will only ever detect the door being open/ed - most people tend to lock them and modern doors are often multipoint locking. Door contact will not detect a panel being kicked through.

so, imho - tbh if your going to all the trouble to fit a door contact, also fit a shock sensor, you can get versions that have both shock and a contact in one box, ideal for windows and patio doors to.

for a few pounds more, you can also get pet resistant detectors, these are cheaper than fitting detection to many windows as long as you do not need to move about in the kitchen while the alarm us armed.

unlike a limited protection door contact, it will detect intrusion made through a door or window panel, and as it states on the box - resistant to false alarms by pets (upto 4 cats or a dog under 70lbs).

[Oxo]

Please

 

PLEASE

 

PLEASE

 

Sort out that ***** phone and programme the predictive text/word so it stops us reading dire mis-spellings.

You`re smart, take 10 mins and stop this drivel from being posted, for your own credibility at least.

[arfur mo]

Please

 

PLEASE

 

PLEASE

 

Sort out that ***** phone and programme the predictive text/word so it stops us reading dire mis-spellings.

You`re smart, take 10 mins and stop this drivel from being posted, for your own credibility at least.

Hmmm! not my credibility at stake me thinks, perhaps you care to explain?

meanwhile, i'll continue to show my ignorance and total lack of experience (me being a newb and all that - as if lol!). - btw, i just put that post through word - so what 'dire' miss spells are you prattling on about now?

oops! nearly forgot - WHAT drivel?

you telling me, and everyone else - a back door contact on even a simple timber locked door, is going to detect anything other than a door coming open? You telling the world Intruders don't ever break in through a wooden panel or smash/cut/remove sealant from the glazed section etc.?

so how is door contact ever going to detect any of those attacks (unless it is left unlocked)?

I assume it's your POV fitting a shock is not worth while. its you who bog on about 'looking after pets' the one the o/p never mentions,when there is far more secure methods i outlined, so i give informative correct advice on alternative pet resistant detection.

seems your own post has little if any common sense in my POV, and i'd bet most others who really know what their doing in this trade tbh.

[arfur mo]

Excellent, please see attached.

tbh you plan shows (sensibly) no valuables, you might have a safe, a collection of expensive watches, even a gun cabinet. You might be a higher risk client such as a jeweller or doctor, so it is hard for any of 'us' to advise and properly design what you really need, without discussing in detail or better visiting and assessing your true needs.

Most intrusions are quick in/outs over in 90 seconds, and in 'normal' homes usually looking for valuables that can easily be carried and sold, cash, jewellery, phones laptops as example.

I'd advise have a couple if companies visit, seek their advice in your personal situation. Ideally you would then ask one to instal, and i ask what will you do if the system plays up? but there is no compulsion.

as an outline, a simple trap system in any home is started with a door contact on the front door, then to protect the 'honey' so to speak, pir in the lounge, another on landing and/or in the master bedroom (especially on a single level dwelling). If unfortunately an intruder gets in he/they will move about eventually triggering one of the detectors. The more detection the sooner that will happen hopefully shortening the 'visit' reducing loss and damage - which is as much as any system can do. You can have voice or text diallers, remote control via phone, listen in features on the more sophisticated systems.

If you do have silverware in a dinning room, computers in a study, or have a higher fear level of attack while asleep (very rare) then simply add a detector in these and other rooms that can be active while your asleep, perhaps an additional keypad to the 1st floor landing which is very convenient and also serves as an additional panic button.

basic reasonable detectors don't cost that much to buy, and often sold in kits, just don't buy the cheapest ones.

[arfur mo]

H Jon,

i'm not a registered installer, but been around a long time,

fitting door contacts internally have given way to pirs, my experience is door contacts caused far more false alarms due to users not bothering to check every door is held firmly every time before arming. A door ajar will often allow the alarm to arm, only to trigger later. user returns, opens front door and insecure door slams shut due to draft - they assume must be a fault, as now when they check the door/s they are held firmly.

Regs aside, given entry times before full activation, in practice a front door contact serves more to warn a returning key holder the alarm requires unsetting within a time window, than offering any real protection in its self.

What it allows is the instant activation on a hall Pir on intrusion, perhaps via a toilet window in an unprotected room and why fitting the front door contact, backed up by a pir is usually advisable.

[norman]

But without the contacts you can set with doors wide open....