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Texecom & Dt7550Uk2


zurrieq

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Spot on, plus if additional split up fuses are fitted the first bigger fuse still must have the same current running through.

lets get this clear, additional PSU output @ 5amp, run to lower current fuse banks, so a 5 amp psu to 5 x 1 amp or 10 x 500ma fuses, the detection from there. the 5 amp fuse will still pass the same current but is a big enough wire gauge to only slightly affect voltage drop at the current we need.

the lower fuse only pass enough current to run the split up detection so say 4 pirs per fuse (my own limit) plenty left and lower voltage drop effect.

now we go 'your' all in one route, you 'pull' all the current for expanders, keypads and detection direct from the panel PSU, so via one fuse which on Gardtec is 1.25 amps (don't know on Tex) from the AUX, so will inflict a higher voltage drop 'penalty' becaus e the 'master' fuse is lower current rated.

so which is the better practice on that alone?

A control panels current should never get near it's fuse rating; if running a 7Ah battery then each PSU in the system should draw no more than 560mA standby, to get the 12 Hours + Activition required.

i totally agree with that but, not an issue.

You obviously haven't fitted many 100+ zone systems in your 43 years, otherwise you would see the method of running more cable and having power supplies all back at the panel is not practical. Equipment has changed and is designed to feed power in this way.

you'd be amazed at the diversity of the systems i have installed - and where OSA stops me from revealing, or i'd have to kill all of you :),

this is not a 'peeing up the wall' contest. this is not about a shopping complex, a ministery building, national banks , rothchilds or the British Museum - but a house.

Time and experience, does not grow linearly. They are not the same thing and should never be assumed they go hand in hand.

so we disregaurd experience completely? hmmmm!

earlier, a members experience was refered to as some sort of trump card, just to mention before starting my own business i have spent many years on service and install for Chubbs (twice), Sheld Protection, Combat Alarms and Honeywell amongst others.

I don't think this helps the thread dragging random anecdotes about JB's in lofts and fitting nails in fuse holders.

Either way is acceptable, your method is in the minority.

pure quality usually is in the minority unfortunately, and being in it is the only acceptable way for me and why i work for myself - by myself ;).

Arfur

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

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yipeee!, at least another makes exactely the same point as me, i'd add in vermin activity, carpet fitters, cables which were well laid but get pulled under floor after installation by other trades, even at later date, now on laying on hot c/h pipes, or trapped by boards etc = same result.

we are not even sure if OP has used a clip gun, but we are advising a DIY installer who unlike us will not be aware to avoid the above hazards, so do we really need to say more about good practice guys?

as for kit comming designed like this give me a break, what is wrong with improvement? you can buy a PSU with a single 5amp fused output, would anyone in their right mind honestly run that straight out to the detection without protection 1amp rated cables by feeding via a fuse with a lower rating?

i'd be aghast if you did, so time speak some common sense please guys

Arfur

You just keep riddling for an answer don't you.

There is no need for improvement. You are just insistant your way is the only correct way.

This is a joke we started off talking about running a couple of powered devices off a couple of keypads.

In reguards the quote you refer to... The keypad will not work if the keypad fuse blows.

Tunstall stuff has a seperate bus for keypads and expanders this is why an extra set of terminals/fuses. Gal and Texe don't so why bother.

Either way the fuse blows call out is required. The only difference is our common fuses are monitored via intruder alarm/PSU's, so we know a fuse has gone, the system will not set. Even if the the keypad is still lit up or not.

If one of your random fuse efforts blow there maybe a couple of sensors active, an easy omit later customer leaves some of the system off.

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the hole thing was a joke.it looked like you were struggling to make your point.

are you saying in mrs miggins house you would wire an additional psu just incase bob gets fruity with his hammer?

im not saying its wrong its great but you obviously work for yourself cus most firms wouldent pay the extra for such a rare occorance

if i'm struggling, it's to get others to see the serious advantages and merits of spltting supplies onto dedicated fuses, but at east keep the main items running should the worst happen.

it's not a case of wiring an additionl PSU for this (which i do on bigger jobs) but splitting up via fuses to stop a short on a pir (which happens quit a lot if mr decorator from eastern eurpean country, decides to remove the detector before servicing the boiler and killing the keypads.

unfortunetly you correct perhaps firms won't pay the extra, but thats where i part company and association with those companies who would claim they are high quality - not in my eye's :).

to me, and not aimed at anyone in this discussion, when i see work done that way as you do in life, i feel it draws the line in the sand between a true alarm engineer/installer and the run of the mill 'alarm fitter'.

Arfur

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

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if i'm struggling, it's to get others to see the serious advantages and merits of spltting supplies onto dedicated fuses, but at east keep the main items running should the worst happen.

it's not a case of wiring an additionl PSU for this (which i do on bigger jobs) but splitting up via fuses to stop a short on a pir (which happens quit a lot if mr decorator from eastern eurpean country, decides to remove the detector before servicing the boiler and killing the keypads.

unfortunetly you correct perhaps firms won't pay the extra, but thats where i part company and association with those companies who would claim they are high quality - not in my eye's :).

to me, and not aimed at anyone in this discussion, when i see work done that way as you do in life, i feel it draws the line in the sand between a true alarm engineer/installer and the run of the mill 'alarm fitter'.

Arfur

dont get me wrong im not saying your wrong or your methods are bad.there fine.but your not any better than anyone else because you put additional fuses in.i think it takes more than this to be the dogs imo.

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so your saying because its diy we should advise him to put more kit in?

carpet fitters?so after all that from the pro it seems you dont mind running cables next to gripper!priceless

your making assumptions, where did i say that i run any cable next to carpet gripper? but who can assume the o/p has not?

i've never worked for BT either, but then the skirting is usually their domain and i'm no good at such heights :).

Arfur

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

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your making assumptions, where did i say that i run any cable next to carpet gripper? but who can assume the o/p has not?

i've never worked for BT either, but then the skirting is usually their domain and i'm no good at such heights :).

Arfur

bt-skirting?thats only if you get a good bt engineer!

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yoiu got me cold - even i can't argue debate against that lol!

Arfur

my uncle in law works for them.hes good though when he installs a new phone point instead of just forcing half of an inch 8 screw into solid wall with no wall plugs.he also uses a bit of no nails!they obviously have the best condition drills cus they never use them!

you can imagine the conversations at family doos.

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dont get me wrong im not saying your wrong or your methods are bad.there fine.but your not any better than anyone else because you put additional fuses in.i think it takes more than this to be the dogs imo.

again i agree, but it is but a little tiny part of the attention i give to the whole installation at every point.

if you spend any time on service (and anyone going to start up i'd strongly recommend it) you get to see what go's wrong, and early on you soon get to understand why what seems a good method or valid short cut is not so cever after all.

you may be happy with what you do i don't know, but i am definately very different to anyone else (incase you did not noticr ;) ), what makes me happy is zero tollerance to any avoidable faults.

i appreciate those working for companies are restricted by time and cost constraints, one of the big reasons i left my last employement to start up, just because i was not allowed the time to do the job properly (as i see it), they were in transtion to swallowed by Honeywell to be fair, so the verve for high quality thay had at one time, had gone out of it.

i won't ever be rich, but i won't likely ever be unhappy either.

Arfur

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

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my uncle in law works for them.hes good though when he installs a new phone point instead of just forcing half of an inch 8 screw into solid wall with no wall plugs.he also uses a bit of no nails!they obviously have the best condition drills cus they never use them!

you can imagine the conversations at family doos.

my favourit banter line's on site is to say

"i can't put 'BT Engineer' in a sentence - due to the trade description act"

"if BT had real engineers - the UK might have a real communiactions system"

try those one on him, but be fast on your toes :).

Arfur

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

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This topic has become like some sort of alien topic beast with a life of it's own, rolling over every member it encounters, spitting flames and smoke ........ so I'm closing it before it devours everybody in it's path!

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PM me for access to the SSAIB members discussion area.

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