james.wilson

I can't say I'd use plastic inside for any plumbing all I've done on the kitchen etc has been copper and solder. But i can see why it's used on modern builds its very quick and easy compared to tube. I see push fit installed with joints in walls etc but I wouldnt

it is outside. In wp enclosure ive got to consider freezing though too

The remote is for something else but i was playing with it. It will be automatic on a timer using the sonoff.

The speedfit is just being used inside. Will be painted for the 200mm at each basket. Wanted to use it as its in the house and i didnt want any leaks. Ive done it without joints thats why the 4 way manifold. Used this solonoid https://www.amazon.co.uk/Electric-Household-Appliances-Industrial-Equipment/dp/B07WGZ62G2/ref=sr_1_12?crid=E223TKA97H7R&dchild=1&keywords=240v+solenoid+valve&qid=1586805698&refinements=p_76%3A419158031&rnid=419157031&rps=1&sprefix=240v+sol%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-12 for about 12 quid using a sonoff mini https://www.amazon.co.uk/Compatible-Control-Function-Support-Required/dp/B07TRSWY23/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&aaxitk=vILe6pEXAnEN4p-U9Y5c2g&hsa_cr_id=2512088930502&ref_=sb_s_sparkle Just cos i have them i dont need the switch input but may add it to the enclosure depending on how the auto goes with the weather etc Currently running on a hose pipe feed but will be plumbed in properly The out hose connection is for the veg patch

would i be better of with a motorised one then?

Project for today etc using solonoid valve and 10mm plastic speed fit fished in

Maybe upload photos of each end showing the connections and markings?

It must be wired incorrectly. You have an output that is going active on armed connected to something

There is no way to control 3rd party integrations if the provider doesn't have 3rd party certification. Its a want these houses have not a need. Think about what would happen if the system failed to perform. The certification company would be taking all the risk on a system the installer / maintainer has no control over. I believe these integrations rely on engineer level access between them. Any installer doing this without the necessary protection is daft IMHO. There is a 'guide' being worked on but the scope is so massive there is no time line if it ever sees the light of day.

imo no they are not

As long as the component doing the disarming meets the component requirements of en 50131 then you can certificate it

Getting any eu compliant panel to talk to a non graded system isnt currently doable out of the box. You can obviously use relays and such like but not ideal. I use home assistant with my hkc system but there is no way id allow home assistant to control the set status only to view or for logic etc. You could probably get the events via 232 printer but ive not investigated that yet

The only system I know that did this was the old castle stuff multiple end stations was called a 2900 to begin with then a multi 2500 or 2700. I'd go with 6 it's probably not linked

lol

Seems like some minds think alike

So today you would be top knot?

Looks like a warbutons crumpet

ta will do, can i program this or will a factory default fix the daylight issue?

i cant go outside ive done my exercise for today

thats the case on ww1 dont know on dualcom

sounds like a routing issue between csl and the arc, incorrect account number in panel?

I predict a bit one came good then lol

Everyone knows they do, may as well post it then pretend its not happening

Is that double knock for a wireless sensor that goes to sleep... That'll work well

I was just saying these features have been available for some time on high end kit. It's now making its way onto budget machines like hik. Next it will be on nest etc and as the slide down continues the performance will too