datadiffusion

I would have thought that as a splitter effectively needed 4 wires (it was still alarm + tamper pairs to the splitter - right?) a simple conversion to EOL will solve that issue regardless of the splitter location. (Note you would have to have the 2 panics on one zone, I usually hate zone sharing but would forgive it for a latching PA on a bells only domestic) So, yes OP, 8 EOL zones sounds fine, but that's why I would forget the Gen4 though. Personally I would recommend a 9651EN or similar 'proper' EOL type 8 zones LCD panel. EOL is where you can get alarm AND tamper over a single pair of two wires to each detector.

G4 would be a total downgrade IMHO. It isn't even true LCD, IIRC aren't the zone descriptors all stored locally in the keypad which basically acts as a 'translator' from the signals that are designed to drive an LED keypad?

Rear tamper switch looks goosed to me.

Hi, welcome (I split this topic btw)

Bit much.

I always thought 16 ohms was the impedance, not the resistance? Surely the resistance will be virtually short?

With the zone splits, wasn't there a 'B' terminal in Abacus brand PIRs for a 2nd circuit (but shared tamper??), or couldn't you use a splitter box? And wasn't the split thing just glorified EOL using unpublished values? Just wondering if that, as well as a ropey contact/connection could be an issue...

p.s LOL https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noel_Edmonds#Unique_Group

Hi Mike, this is a UK (British) forum so there is unlikely to be anyone here familiar with that kit.

Yabba dabba don't.

Welcome to tsi, where high powered biz discussion comes second only to fart jokes and badly photoshopped memes.

Lol

To 'prove' he has proper monitoring, the dialler calls his mate and he calls him back pretending to be the call centre

And that's why you DIYd it?

Soz, was meaning DIY brands, Response is still out there but thats few and far between.

Im not sure there are any others these days!

No, I know they don't care about comms, but the point stands they have no idea with yale if it was installed last decade or last week, they date very well. The one good thing about them is the consistency of the branding I'd say.

Yale are tat IMHO, but their ONE selling, point, the ONE thing that makes them useful is that very recognisable yellow box and logo. Burglars see it, they know you can't easily get dummy Yale boxes, they know the kit is easy enough to install it might just actually work, unlike, say a dirty 20 year old H box or a blank, unknown box. They also don't know if it's a 2000 or 2017 model as the boxes haven't changed in years, a bit like ADT. So for all they know it could be the latest model with IP comms. I'd the branded bellbox is the one valuable part of a Yale kit.

If the bell contains a battery (if) it will last indefinitely, and if you disconnect power indoors it will ring outside for at least 20 mins anyway. That's what a normal system would do anyway, for this kit it isn't so obvious. So you may as well do as suggested; Bell first Then mains off at control unit Then pull control unit from wall & open up to remove battery inside

There is a suggestion in the thread I linked that the bell isn't a SAB (i.e is not battery backed); it states it has no tamper anyway. But either way follow the above and you shouldn't go wrong either way... though best left to a pro. Any pro so you could get other quotes for removal and/or replacement??

Look no further than where you already find yourself... Or, in a nutshell (kids under 40ish you might have to image google it...)

Welcome!

Fixed.

See, you just don't get all this with mirrored optics

Personally - and especially when it's wireless (complete flexibility) AND with that rad underneath* I'd have brought it 12" lower than the ceiling - maximum heat at the top. Well, I would have avoided the rad completely tbh but I appreciate that the rad was unlikely to have caused the FA on the most recent occasion though