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Agreed, we were quite conservative with the www with our two kids, both of them were avid readers and not really into gaming etc. No phones until they were at high school, James had an ipod thing but even that was closely monitored by us. Both were taught about the obvious dangers of the www. I remember looking thorough Jamess search history and he'd been searching for boobs. He was about 12 at the time and was mortified when I spoke to him about it lol. If it was up to me I'd also restrict under 16s and think it's a cesspit for bullying, at least when I went to school the bullying stopped at 3pm.

Not wishing to get into the debate but 'Proper' gear needs to comply with the product standard (not the install) and part of that is testing the battery OK Most if not all panel will dip the supply and measure the voltage as a means to do this check. ie also all the 12v peripherals should be able (if compliant) to handle this ripple voltage. I dont know texecom gear well or at all and not sure if the network errors are a log tool or just log 'noise'. Either way it shouldnt cause a problem in normal operation. If it is causing a problem (other than a disganostic log) then something is wrong.

pizeo's vibrate, thrips / thunder bugs or whatever climb inside stuff & don;t vibrate no more...

So you've proven the wiring and that it's likely the programming... Yes, you should always default them from new.

This is a long shot , but is this possible?

demonic possession, contact your local priest ? Or the sensitivity on the keypad it too high, calibrate / adjust or replace ??

Here's a crazy idea.... why not power down your knacked alarm ?

If you don't want it then get it killed. If you do want it then find someone to. We have a boat load of people and pyronix are to blame for this who do want a security system but spend more at Costa.

nonce ban ? https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/news/2022/04/06/TELEMMGLPICT000058725877_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqhZJ9vnP3TZj6dX4F0Tnhrlt1EhdK4aiwcWMQPYeW9P0.jpeg?imwidth=680 they'd laugh out loud....

I wouldn't of thought a bulb unless halogen would get hot enough quixh enough

id say your puttin gthe magnet to the wrong side of the contact and you have a grade 3 door contact

Sorry I disagree- I've never had any reason to use an oscilloscope on an intruder alarm nor do I need a £500+ multi meter (it would only get lost or broken out in alarm land) Aged 17 or so I knew something like a 9600 required a power supply to run all 16 zones & multiple keypads & speakers Who would have guessed more than 30 years later I'd still be having conversations with people who don't understand the basics principles, Suitable current in day & alarm, suitable voltage at each device when running off the battery, if you've not got this you'll have problems Your alarm appear to have lots of problems I've got lots of alarms with very few problems, its funny old world isn't it ?

Well you came asking for help and your disregarding what you are told by people that work with this stuff every day. I have told you how to rule this out and some things to check, there are further things that need ruling out but it's not normal. To expand on MrH above, as a rule of thumb I would expect each power supply to have <~500mA quiescent per 7Ah battery to conform to BS EN; this is aside to your issue.

Thats half an amp in my book

Two things of note here, if your panel is pulling over half an amp quiescent that seems quite high to me and also if your new battery is dropping to 12v under load I would suggest its not a good battery.

When you completely down-power It remembers the codes zone settings ect in the NVM. But it wont keep the clock going while its down powered, that will default to watchdog

just snip them individually that way you will know what colour goes where when you put it back/replace it. No need to down power completely just be aware the alarm will tamper

It puts more load on the psu it pulls more current than the psu is designed to provide, and eventually burns out the charging circuit

Brown tape yes

Yes thats called back focusing

Yes, they are also really hard to get hold of. You have to send a message in bottle...

Unlikely, if weak WiFi it's not impossible, and remember it's a friend of yours, which you don't live with I say that because usually when you ask lots of questions and try and fault find what someone says , it's not always what they originally said, which misleads what the real problem with audio might be, weak WiFi can cause audio loss, and even a device elsewhere could potentially interfere with audio when WiFi weak, possibly it's a coincidence

Yuasa rate NP batteries as 5 year service life for use within alarm systems, other manufacturers maybe different. From experience you could get 10 years from a Yuasa one but it's best to swap before it's deteriorating.

Hi, The battery should be replaced every four years. This is the manufacturers expected lifetime guidelines. I have known batteries to continue to hold good life long after four years, but accredited installers have to follow the manufactures guidelines. The performance of the battery is effected by many things, the quality of the electricity more spikes and fluctuations will reduce the life of the battery. The quality of the charging system (HKC is generally good) power cuts discharging and charging the battery will reduce its life. The size of the battery should reflect the current pulled from the system.

Don't come back here after you have cocked up looking for free help and tell those people that do it everyday for a living they're wrong! You did actually say "Theres no need for a service, or calling an engineer" but you don't seem to understand why it needs servicing. If you want poor advice or copies of random copyrighted manuals from people that aren't trade verified, go and find some other forum...

Ok we waiting...... Lol

Boom you got this...

Seems we all do/did them differently... Similar to 6 Under the washer like JW and only half round with the sheath left on but longer than the cores if that makes sense.

Unlike my only fans a/c this one's free- VID_20241108_182950361.mp4

yeah dont use them anymore but when i did, strip in the normal way (leaving some insulation to twist tight) then wrap around a 2.5mm terminal driver, remove screw and washer and push through loop of cable making sure to keep so when it tightens it doesnt loosen the coil.

Good job

or try removing the ac power (pull fuse) for a bit and see if it continues when on battery only. Also measure your induced ac with the mains off to see the difference between the psu on and off

Exorcizo te, creatura salis, per Deum vivum, per Deum verum, per Deum sanctum, per Deum

I would swap it, they will get exchange aswell Otherwise go see

Kids of today! Blooming amateurs! Running cables while the floor is up is easy, hard wired is better than wireless for 101 reasons. Not that wireless doesnt have its place, if you had a flat or your renting, or its impossible to get a wire to where its needed wireless is fine. But in your case it sounds like whoever you got to quote is either lazy or stupid and you dont want either of those combinations installing stuff in your house

Basically took 20seconds once prepped

Bell on battery , but I am feeling nervous already

This is the reason you use proper gear. Diy stuff can be disabled but what would you prefer an off switch? Or worse an off code. You have found out that compliant equipment does as it says.

Hi Sixwheeledbeast, Many thanks for the advice. I am more comfortable now I can forget the Scantronic option. I do not intend to try a DIY installation. I do intend to have the cabling in place myself. I took your advice that there is no such thing as cannot. Rather than trying to use the original cables for the three daisy chained sensors, I looked at covering two of the rooms from alternative accessable points. By coming from the loft I can cut through the first floor in cuboards to lay two new sensor positons, leaving just one of the three sensors on the original 6 core. The issue with my semi engineering brickwork was not how to break through them, that's already done. The issue is they seem to be Wi-Fi unfriendly. Sky mesh was a disaster for me. I feel more comfortable now that I can install a wired system with options to Wi-Fi extend if the need arises. Thank you once again.

This was the road I was heading down as it clearly shows this in the RF RIO manual but without a meaningful manual on the RF Portal I can't get a definite answer! I suspect it is because they are enrolled in a different way?

No need to think, read manual , get engineer to make changes for silent set

OP, see many of these out & about.... your 9450 is about the same age

How did you test the battery?

Next you will say they self certification there equipment

I have a corded & also a cordless one I never knew how much a "hairdryer on stick" costs

You need ? they all do a battery test, forget it man just install it and move on with life lol

Congratulations on being our latest alarm expert & welcome to the moderation team....

That's nice... did you read the installation book where it states the size of the psu & the current drawn by each texecom device ? You have the main board, 5 expanders, 5 speakers & a keypad I also assume you have an external bell(s) & powered detection All powered by the panel....

Probably the best thing to do is to get three quotes. I would advise that you pick three accredited companies either ssiab or NSI gold https://www.nsi.org.uk/ https://ssaib.org/ you can search for local companies with your postcode on these sites Any good company will be able to tailor the alarm system to your needs and will give advise on how to make it simple to use. Most companies will have their own preferred brand that they like to install, we could all start recommending different brands here but it would just confuse you if installers in your area dont use these brands and recommend something else. Once you have your quotes come back here for more advice if you need it

SUNTHORNES!! (made in Aldershot I think) Yes, used to service loads of them in the late 80's and 90's. I remember the BELL TEST button, which was really just a Normally Closed button that removed the power to the external sounder! No bell timer, had to fit a seperate PCB inside panel to time the bell to 20 minutes. The cybertone sounder drilled into the front of the panel which gave you three tones. A continuous whine when you tried to set the system with a zone in fault, a wheeee-wheeee-wheeee for setting and unsetting and a lower faster tone for alarm. You couldn't set any of the zones (with exception of Exit/Entry zone) as "entry route", instead we fitted relays inside the panel which was connected into the E/E sounder to short out the relevant zones during Entry and Exit time. The zone cards, each of which had a Green LED for "ON" (not isolated), Yellow for "Zone in alarm" and Red as a memory after an alarm activation. The really old ones,the isolate button on the front panel used to toggle the Green LED off and on, but it was updated so that the Green LED would come back on when the keyswitch was turned back to off. On the front was a keyswitch and a large piece of darkened plastic where you could see the LEDs of all the zone cards. There was also an expansion board where you could fit loads of zone boards and have up to about 30 zones. There was one of these fitted in Jabro Cash and Carry in Luton (is it still there? this is about 20 years ago now!!) before it was updated to a 9500! Wish I had a photo of the panel! (I don't know why, just memories I guess!) Matt (not from Vidionics anymore like my username says)