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Well you came asking for help and your disregarding what you are told by people that work with this stuff every day. I have told you how to rule this out and some things to check, there are further things that need ruling out but it's not normal. To expand on MrH above, as a rule of thumb I would expect each power supply to have <~500mA quiescent per 7Ah battery to conform to BS EN; this is aside to your issue.

Hopefully nobody noticed but there have been a few upgrades on tsi. Mainly aiming for speed improvement on mobile mainly if anyone has seen a speed increase.

get your property to finished surfaces - oh, I think I have a burglar alarm....

If you do get a supply of them... unlikely to get a large quantity from a wholesaler if they even have them listed; I would suggest to replace as part of any maintenance. The transparent wiring cover will easily flick out at the hinge with correct application of a flat screwdriver, so you could have covers ready to go with spare wiring covers (buy a few dummies). I know it's not the point but you could consider getting some adhesive 12v LED tape instead, most thinner stuff can be cut at 8-10cm sections make them up ready to go. It's less hassle to go forward using the same box if you want, but not offering or connecting the illumination. As I say I don't offer illuminated sounders every now and then a new customer enquires about them, I ask if they have or have applied for planning permission to have one and then explain the details of this. If the customer even wanted to put the effort in to apply, your unlikely to get it granted in a domestic situation. No neighbour wants to look at your light up advert looking across the road in the evening... more importantly, I don't feel they should have to either.

Isn't the iwise bus a bus detector that will only work on a risco panel? You have also probably blown the fuse or panel. Wires shouldn't 'touch'

Tat alarms & naff doorbells is what the public want...

I know its warm, but put your dressing gown on...

Just consider permanently illuminated external sounders require planning permission, if the decal space is used. I would disable anyway. Make sure the controls are in full working order, charging rates, voltages etc; before only replacing the siren.

Sounds like someone else over specced and it ended up in your van...

AIUI in that situation it's still all the same rules and repayments but HMRC no longer have access to your tax code or income, so you have to provide evidence. If you disappear your rate is charged the maximum monthly amount and you are charged interest on late payments.

i think we will have to agree to disagree Al

if its not coomunicating then it wont go off again, however the siren may self actuate with a panel instruction if its tamper switch keeps operating

Mice fart louder than most current external sounders Sticking lots of stuff on the alarm means lost of current drawn in alarm all my P24 need 9Ah batterys

There can be unforeseen planning permission issues and they are unnecessary light pollution. You can fit them without connecting the backlight on the X's, but can purchase the twin siren non-X ones for similar price. Covering a new box with what I guess is some old C-Type cover would remove the deterrent of a shiny new box and reduce sound output. If you are thinking of not buying a lid for this sounder it just will not work, they need a compatible lid.

Not in the panel programming. You would need to add a pulse relay or use a sounder with 2 different inputs

I assume his McManison was built with stolen stuff & he's just got out of HMP Forest Bank ?

Not totally, remember the insurance companies lost a lot of money through covid and with weather events too.

Get deed pole change name to James wilsingh then sorted

Cut and past the same stuff twice. Infra red is the detection method not what the detector is looking for, infra red detector detects heat or infra red radiation. Its unlikely that anyone can cover themselves up enough not to give off any heat at all . The ambient temp of the room versus the temp of the person. Even if the person was wearing a foil suit and giving off no heat (unlikely) he would be interrupting heat sources in the room. I would be looking a bit closer, what happens when you set the alarm and then walk in front of detectors? Nothing of what you have said makes any sense its almost as if your making excuses for the poor performance of your design

Also in that environment lots of rf devices about. Is everything well shielded

Never heard of brooks before internet, thorn was finishing off as I was getting going... IIRC

Waste of time , seriously, those recorders you can't even give away now, even swann has overtaken it So you will be like trying to fit ip 720p or something like that

I eat cannibal,It's incredible...

Eol resistors are for End Of Line use they shouldn't be in the panel expander etc. If the flex supports seol then you would out this at the end. I haven't looked in detail at the existing wiring

I appreciate the professional installers on this forum, and I understand that my situation may seem less than ideal. I want to assure you that I am doing everything I can to improve the current circumstances. This situation is not intentional, and if there were a straightforward solution, I would have implemented it already. However, there are some challenges that will require time and effort to address. Your advice and guidance are valuable to me, and I truly appreciate your support. Thanks, Mark

dunno, TBH I couldn't give a Castlemaine 4x

what could go Wong ?

Normally your final exit doors would be 'final' you entry route zones would be exit. The use intruder for the rest not on the entry /exit route

Use one of these at far end and link two windows , perhaps you can seperate them this way rather all the windows on one circuit https://www.citysecuritysystems.co.uk/honeywell-dodt8m

DEOL (Double End of Line), will never work correctly without the shunt resistor across the zone in the device. You will also not find a panel that supports much more than 3 devices via DEOL. Your current system is SEOL which you could get away with that.

I have seen many diffrent installation styles over the years, Clips vs staples, surface run vs hidden, taught vs slack. Personaly I take pride in my 1st fix and cabling and do it properly but that does slow you down. The work I observed with a contractor on a new build housing estate was so slopppy that I pulled him up on it, his justification was that he had targets to hit and they dont pay him enough to give a **** And there seems to be the problem paying **** money to general contractors under pressure to get the job done as quickly as possible. If I had paid good money for a new house I would expect the cable for the window sensor to be run through the upvc window frame and under the window sill not surface run and poorly clipped As mentioned BS7671 is a good place to start for general regs

You say it's not an option... but that's what I would do. Wouldn't entertain all that stuff on one zone.

You will need 2 resistors if this is a galaxy on deol

We have had a rather large upgrade, some new features but mainly security. Let me know if you have any issues. James

White light filters minimise the risk of a FA, sometimes installations don't lend themselves to installing the best way. Especially in retro situations. Often for example on a landing the best corner is over the stairs. I wouldn't install there due to future access issues so then your usually left with facing a window. They have some tolerance but you minimise the risks just like anything else. I'm not saying a good quality quad couldn't be fine. When you have the option available you install them in the best possible corners. Which the simple version is always pointing away from sources of light and heat (the sun) and perpendicular to the movement of any possible intruder. All manufacturers instructions say this and if you ignore it and have a false alarm it's your own fault. Had a job Tuesday were some tool had pointed a Honeywell PIR at a patio door in an open plan extension, it had false alarmed every day all the week prior. The system is 5 months old fitted by some clueless spark (scribbled colours/terminals on manuals...), seems to be a mess. It's only just started these FA's but you can see from the time in the log it's happening during the day when it's competing with the sun on the back patio. Re-siting has solved it, maybe a quad could but I don't see that as the correct solution... it's just a workaround, the bad positioning was the issue and would still be there IMO. Anyway, tis true G3 is pointless at a DIY level, it's much greater chance of headaches than ever genuinely detecting what it's there for. It could also affect everything I am saying about positioning. For example, they are designed for open commercial spaces if your fitting in corners with possibly of curtains or tall furniture you may have to consider a less ideal corner. Master bed you have cupboard doors opening onto the ideal corners, this will likely cause a mask. Or if not and maybe you left the doors open you have no detection. There is more to design than the ideal manufacturers instructions or looking at top view building plans and more unnecessary issues to jungle throwing G3 components in the mix.

Thanks for the welcome messages guys... I've managed to track down a suitable course. Booked in next month ? Will update this thread with my experience and looking forward to getting my first install ?

48 would be more than enough, it's will never be a G3 system but you seem to be aspiring to that spec. Have you considered standby time, I prefer more PSU's i.e. PSU200XP and 7Ah batteries over 17Ah. In fairness some of this is completely pointless overkill (we have to assume the risk based on DIY), your bound to have unnecessary headaches with G3 kit which is some of PJ's point. I still can't agree pointing any movement sensors towards windows/openings is in anyway correct or has faster detection, you'll also never find a manufacturers instructions to concur with this. You can get crosstalk with MW, I only fit Optex ones with anti-crosstalk but none of your sensors are close enough. I'd say it's only the "pointless" hall one with any chance of MW leakage outside the protected area, I'd also assume K band MW which has less wall penetration.

Pastels

Meh, give it another 30 or 40 years and I should have the hang of it, I am blond after all ?

Hi All Thank you for your help so far. In the end the engineer configured the Ethernet board on our home LAN and I could connect it when I was connected to my home network. However it wasn't accessible via the cloud option. As it's a Lantronix smart XPort module, I could telnet onto it and ping the Orisec DDNS server, with no issues, so it had internet access. I then checked with Orisec support directly and they advised that this board doesn't support the cloud option at all. So all in all a good experience of understanding the configuration and setup but we happen to have a panel with the wrong capabilities. For now, I have reverted back to wifi as I can live with that for the time being. @Hillbilly The CP-20 panel swap may be the only option. Thank you all again for your help with this.

Arf is that you?

Hi Brian Welcome, any branded sounder will be suitable replacements, but the terminology used between brands is normally different. The paragon is an old panel and was made before Pyronix bought out Castle and so its likely the older panels will have different terminology then later products

- infectious laughter ?? Local to me there's one on a "Jewellers", They must be uninsured as there will be a requirement to have a proper graded alarm holding a police URN to Intruder & Hold Up for the insurer to provide cover ? You needed graded equipment designed for the UK market, most the stuff the proper alarm co's use is sold to every tom, dick & harry... Having an expensive set of marples chisel dose'nt make any one a joiner ?

As I've decided this is a furry free zone thanks for your comments but please don't any more. However if your normal human self wants to that's fine. I will add for some reason this to the terms and conditions.

keyswtich added by installer

? 4603 would be early 90's radio tat ??

I do my dept head's house alarm (can't remember him) I used to do my primary school teachers house alarm, IIRC in the class was 6 lads sat in the table in the middle 5 of 'em called Dave

I haven't seen anything like this for a long time, vaguely remember something about these being ultrsonics?

4 tins of lager ?