3 minutes ago, ttstick said:

 

I'll take the cover off the PA that recently activated and give everything a retighten and check (and make sure the cover is tightened down proper) but yeah I think if it fails soak I'll put in a G3 microswitched replacement instead.

Dont froget to stamp on the broken one

24 minutes ago, Logan said:

Dont froget to stamp on the broken one

 

I normally burn a few resistors to keep away the spirits too...

6 minutes ago, ttstick said:

 

I normally burn a few resistors to keep away the spirits too...

Lol

 

I haven't used leaf tampers for years used to have issues back in 4737 days

56 minutes ago, ttstick said:

I'm beginning to think the leaf tampered stuff is more trouble than it's worth definitely...

 

The two products are the Knight KP4 G2 Double Push PA button and Knight 8 - Way Junction Box.

 

The Knight KP4 is wall mounted in a hallway, nowhere near any EM fields that could interfere with the reed, not in sunlight or above a heater or anything but it drops a few degrees at night, had one random activation where it went up to 4k and wavered for a bit between 3k/4k and then settled back down to 2k, but I did notice when installing if you don't screw them down tight enough the tamper resistance can slowly drift/ creep.

 

The Knight JB mounted at high level in a garage, again nowhere near any EM fields that could induce EMF, not in sunlight etc. but the timing of the fault coincided with when the sun would start heating the garage up (again a few degrees, nothing huge). Same case of random activation(s) where it'd go up to 4k but this happened a few times. Took off the cover, cut a bit more out of the JB where a small grommit entered just in case this was expanding and pushing the cover up a bit, added a bit more to the tamper actuator so it had more travel, this seems to have done the job and not had any more issues for X weeks now.

 

The timing might just be coincidence in terms of temperature fluctuations but not really any clue on anything else that could've caused it, the rest of the installation (around 20 other wired FSL zones) is rock solid and the cabling itself tests fine.

 

I have a few more of the same products installed elsewhere on the property and had zero issues with them.

You need an installer ?

5 minutes ago, ttstick said:

 

I normally burn a few resistors to keep away the spirits too...

Nah non vented capacitors on 2600 volts from a microwave transformer help keep the vampires away 

1 hour ago, al-yeti said:

You need an installer ?

 

3 zones needing a revisit on a freshly wired and installed Premier Elite 48 isn't that bad is it! :^)

 

The JB (added a bit more to the tamper actuator) and first PA (tightening the cover a bit more) seems to be fine now to be honest, just that remaining pesky PA that I'm hoping will be resolved by a bit of tightening up.

17 minutes ago, ttstick said:

 

3 zones needing a revisit on a freshly wired and installed Premier Elite 48 isn't that bad is it! :^)

 

The JB (added a bit more to the tamper actuator) and first PA (tightening the cover a bit more) seems to be fine now to be honest, just that remaining pesky PA that I'm hoping will be resolved by a bit of tightening up.

Maybe

Edited May 28, 20205 yr by Guest

1 hour ago, ttstick said:

3 zones needing a revisit on a freshly wired and installed Premier Elite 48 isn't that bad is it! :^)

 

you must be doing something fundamentally wrong ?

 

take pic of the problem item & TSI will advise / take the pish...

As requested!

Bit of a daft place to fit a PA, you have to remove the PA from the wall to check anything inside the keypad. this means any readings you have taken in your OP are likely from the keypad and not with a meter too.

It's also not where the cable entry is on the keypad you have made your own hole in the casing, it's unlikely but the PCB of the keypad maybe pressing on the cable causing an intermittent mystery resistance via some keypad component.

I would say if anything the resistors are clamped too tight up to the ceramic this is where they are weaker and more likely to break. You could easily wire that double pole at G2 and job done with no discrete components flapping about inside.

As for the PA in question I don't use them so can't comment but i would be inclined to use something more modern style, reed switches in PA's are so last century...