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iphone 6s dual charger

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Hi I have 2 iphone 6s does anyone know of a usb charger lead to charge up 2 iphones at the same time.

many thanks

bj

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Best to have a charger with a good amperage two outputs with two leads.

Are we talking mains here or vehicle?

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7 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

Best to have a charger with a good amperage two outputs with two leads.

Are we talking mains here or vehicle?

Hi thanks for your reply in the house I have a double socket in the kitchen area with 2 usb charging ports 1 port is used for a nest thermostat, the other a charger cable for two phones mine and wife's phone I am looking for 1 cable that splits in two, I saw one on the web in us but they do not ship to the uk, and could't find it anywhere else.

thanks

bj

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17 minutes ago, PeterJames said:

Cough!

???

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31 minutes ago, bjj said:

Hi thanks for your reply in the house I have a double socket in the kitchen area with 2 usb charging ports 1 port is used for a nest thermostat, the other a charger cable for two phones mine and wife's phone I am looking for 1 cable that splits in two, I saw one on the web in us but they do not ship to the uk, and could't find it anywhere else.

thanks

bj

Kikkerland - Dual Heart iPhone Charing Cable 

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2 minutes ago, bjj said:

???

Its not a good idea to split power especially from one of those double socket type chargers, they are not powerful enough to run three things safely, the link norm posted will deliver the current required.

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I am not keen on the USB built in sockets. You also have to be careful you don't overload them too, the rating on them is for both ports.

I'd get a three output one thats on a plug top

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45 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

I am not keen on the USB built in sockets. You also have to be careful you don't overload them too, the rating on them is for both ports.

I'd get a three output one thats on a plug top

too late ive got them

and like the convenience but get your point


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I have them all over, probably get better ones now tbf and I did wonder about the safety of them when I first fitted them a few years ago but out of probably 12 I've had 0 failures. First ones I bought (I've changed them as I've decorated) were c£30 - £40 iirc. 


Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.


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4 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

I am not keen on the USB built in sockets. You also have to be careful you don't overload them too, the rating on them is for both ports.

I'd get a three output one thats on a plug top

Agreed, not as good as the OEM charger, I think they kill the batteries faster

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I feel they have far too many issues to be worth it.

A lot of them are shoehorned into the outlets free space with no thought on quality of the power supply.

Even if they supply the correct voltages from new (a lot of the cheap ones don't) as it ages the voltage will creep up and will not last as long as the outlet would itself.

There is a tiny amount of tolerance with USB voltage before batteries take a hit, cheap car chargers can be just as bad for this.

Cheaper brands it can effect the IR of the device, some brands known to make the USB ports live in a failure of the PSU.

On top of that there is also the issue you can't switch them off (from a safety or power POV) without doing so at the CU, lack of support for larger devices and/or smart charging.

In short a bad idea IMO.

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Im a big fan of Buck convertors and making my own PSU chargers, that way I know my current limitations and I can change them easily. I have several echo inputs and dots around the house and in most cases I use 12vdc PSU thats powering other stuff like LED lighting or Bluetooth amplifiers, then I use Buck convertors to drop the voltage for the 5v stuff. I have a ten amp PSU in the top garage thats powering Bluetooth  in the Kitchen speakers VIA a Buck, Echo in the kitchen Via a Buck, 12v LED strip lights, and a 12v wireless receiver to switch stuff (like the lights and the speakers on and off) On the landing I have the droid pad, I have 12v dc powering a receiver and a buck , the receiver is on a timer progged by Sonoff and it switches the buck on and off so that the driod gets a couple of hours charge per day, the is another buck running off the same psu powering an input on the landing. I have voice control nearly everywhere I am in the house.Mostly powered by 12vdc and bucks   

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4 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

I feel they have far too many issues to be worth it.

A lot of them are shoehorned into the outlets free space with no thought on quality of the power supply.

Even if they supply the correct voltages from new (a lot of the cheap ones don't) as it ages the voltage will creep up and will not last as long as the outlet would itself.

There is a tiny amount of tolerance with USB voltage before batteries take a hit, cheap car chargers can be just as bad for this.

Cheaper brands it can effect the IR of the device, some brands known to make the USB ports live in a failure of the PSU.

On top of that there is also the issue you can't switch them off (from a safety or power POV) without doing so at the CU, lack of support for larger devices and/or smart charging.

In short a bad idea IMO.

Some good points and I'll look at the o/p voltage on them just out of interest.

 

I don't like anything on show so find the convenience overrides the negatives for me at least. 


Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.


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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183993670048

 

There are others similar available but very useful to have one in your tool kit if your around these devices a lot, confirmed there accuracy with my multimeter initially.

 

Say you have a house full of them and you have an intermittent issue on your power circuit, there is no way to have the circuit powered with no load and no easy way to do testing as a megger would blow them all up.

It's an unlikely issue but you could add hours on to an electrical job disconnecting them all back to a standard installation before you even start looking for a wiring issue etc.

 

To the OP you will find that the closer you get to the rated output (trying to charge 3 devices) the more the voltage will sag, meaning they will take longer to charge than they possibly would if you charged them individually..

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I've got the same but it has a fly lead. 

 

Anyway with the multi meter most are between 4.9c and 5.4v the one I use the most in the kitchen is 7.4v!

 

And one of the two in the daughters old room are 0v.

 

All are different makes bought at different times but all match in each room if that makes sense. 

 

Looks like I need a couple new ones. 

 

Lol


Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.


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Scary thing is how much it's been raping your expensive smartphone circuitry and batteries while you haven't noticed.

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@sixwheeledbeast I was looking at the same USB thingy before you posted...

 

USB sockets ? no worse than the issue with a lighting circuit with bulb, transformers & pir's ?

 

6 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

your expensive smartphone circuitry and batteries

 

He's a Scotsman living in Yorkshire....


Mr:)

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Or a friends fancy if-fone... :shrug:

 

Ideally you would have an isolation point before anything electronic and with lighting you would have a switch, you wouldn't test without isolating bulbs electronics etc, much more awkward with sockets that are part of the installation itself over an accessory that can be isolated.

 

I have started to see a few USB charging euro/combi plate modules on domestics sharing a double gang with data/phone, more expensive way to do it but keeps things separate from the main installation and you can isolate them without removing the outlets.

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Tbf I'm not concerned (should I be?) I've not owned a phone since 1995 and this current S8 thing seems to be great on the battery, the Mrs phone is <£200 and she uses her bedside one (5.4v) to charge 99 percent of the time anyway.

 

Does the additional 2v really cause that much issue? 

 

We have a couple of Galaxy Tabs and a kindle that often get charged on it and they are fine tbf. 


Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.


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Posted (edited)

Tolerance of USB 5V is +0.25 nowhere near 7.4

It's a bit like those old scanny or optima panels you go to.

It shouldn't be powering the passives and charging the battery at 14.8V, you know it's likely to let go at some point but couldnt say when, but the customer is happy its setting fine.

I'll be down to the device how well it takes the overvoltage, but this would usually be given off as heat which isn't great for a lithium battery.

 

These are the modules I am on about, they are rated for a 32A breaker. You would IR test a new installation with them dissed then connect them up, existing job you could IR @250 or dis them to test circuits @500.

Edited by sixwheeledbeast
typo
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I've been putting MK USB sockets around the house - I hope they are half decent given the price. Certainly the PSU module looks very well made, and the fact it needs a deep box

is almost reassuring that it was made as well as it could rather than as small as it could.

 

Interestingly they do now do a slim 25mm version but I actively seek out the 'gold bag' 35mm min depth ones for any rooms left!


So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands

 

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From what I gathered they released early sample modules that didn't conform to BS only IEC, they had to be supplied from a 3A FCU.

The current models conform to all standards required and you can wire them straight from the circuit with a B or C upto 32A

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