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Photos of alarm system installation


Guest mike2004

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Guest mike2004

It was mentioned by Dave in reply to another post that pictures of DIY installations might be of interest to the site.

I'm beginning the installation of an alarm system in my house which I'm currently renovating, and am installing a Texecom Premier 88 - having deliberated upon my choice recently following advice in this forum, that I was very grateful for :)http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/foru...?showtopic=3508

Its the first time I've tried this, although I'm quite competent with wiring/DIY stuff (for example, I recently completed a total rewiring of the house).

post-3165-1098132691_thumb.jpg

This picture shows where I plan to site the control panel - in the cellar. I've already put in a fused unswitched connection unit next to where I plan to put the panel. I've taken this off a separate circuit breaker in the consumer unit, which will be used solely for the alarm system.

If it will be of interest, I'm happy to take further pictures as I go along.

Mike

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Sorry to put a downer on this, but shouldn't you be using T&E to power the panel?

Would definately like to see the progress pics though!!

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T&E?

28088[/snapback]

Twin and Earth, the common term for solid mains cable.

T & E to power the panel.........No not if its connected to a fused spur with flex outlet.

28096[/snapback]

Here here, I personally dislike seeing anything but flex inside the control.

Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.


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Second that, one of my pet hates seeing T&E connection to a spur, corner cutting in my book.

28107[/snapback]

Third that, horses 4 courses.

I really can't be ar**** with it anymore.

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Second that, one of my pet hates seeing T&E connection to a spur, corner cutting in my book.

28107[/snapback]

?

What's the problem? It's hardly cutting corners. It's harder to work with, more expensive and needs sleeving for the earth.

In my view, flex is cutting corners. Penny pinching, it's the minimum you can get away with and less expensive.

Nice to see a well installed bit of T&E to a control panel, Sheathing stripped back to the grommet, earth sleeving covering full CPC, nicely installed with a little bend in it.

:wub:

If you don't know......ask.

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Guest mike2004

I'm using twin & earth (2.5mm) for the run from the consumer unit to the fused connection unit (pictured above), and flex from the connection unit to the panel. The only advantage of T&E over flex is its load-capacity, and given that the connection unit will have a 2 or 3 amp fuse, I considered the choice of cable from it to the panel to be more convenience-driven!

(To RICHL) - luckily not - the lead pipe in question is a redundant old pipe (now disconnected) which used to carry gas to a fireplace.

Here's my latest pic - the cable to the keypad (in the downstairs hallway, near the front door).

post-3165-1098216742_thumb.jpg

Having a cellar will make some of the cable runs quite convenient. Just had to raggle the cable down, and form a chase up to the intended site of the keypad.

The current intended specification is as follows (using 8-core cable throughout):

Zone 1: Front door contact

Zone 2: Downstairs hall PIR (in entry zone)

Zone 3: Lounge and dining room PIRs

Zone 4: Upstairs hall PIR

Zones 5,6,7: Other door/window contacts or vipers as necessary (not yet decided)

Zone 8: PA button in master bedroom

Outputs: Bellbox X 2 (2 of front, side and back of house - not decided yet)

Outputs: Sound bomb in downstairs hallway

Outputs: Relay output to switch on the light in the downstairs hallway during entry/exit and alarm stages, in order to provide light for us when entering/leaving at night, and to illuminate an intruder.

Any comments/tips are very welcome!

Mike

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Guest mike2004
Haven't done it very often, but like to use capping when I do. Is that not a requirement for buried cabling to have some form of protection?

28176[/snapback]

Only a requirement for mains cable, and then it must be adequate protection ie earthed galvanised steel (unless it is in a specified area, namely horizontally or vertically from a visible mains item (such as a switch or socket) or within around 7cm (I forget the exact number) from top or bottom of the wall.

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You could use one of the 2 zones on the control panel for the door contact. This would free up a zone to split up your zone 3 dining/lounge.

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I'm using twin & earth (2.5mm) for the run from the consumer unit to the fused connection unit (pictured above), and flex from the connection unit to the panel.  The only advantage of T&E over flex is its load-capacity, and given that the connection unit will have a 2 or 3 amp fuse, I considered the choice of cable from it to the panel to be more convenience-driven!

(To RICHL) - luckily not - the lead pipe in question is a redundant old pipe (now disconnected) which used to carry gas to a fireplace.

Here's my latest pic - the cable to the keypad (in the downstairs hallway, near the front door).

post-3165-1098216742_thumb.jpg

Having a cellar will make some of the cable runs quite convenient.  Just had to raggle the cable down, and form a chase up to the intended site of the keypad.

The current intended specification is as follows (using 8-core cable throughout):

Zone 1: Front door contact

Zone 2: Downstairs hall PIR (in entry zone)

Zone 3: Lounge and dining room PIRs

Zone 4: Upstairs hall PIR

Zones 5,6,7: Other door/window contacts or vipers as necessary (not yet decided)

Zone 8: PA button in master bedroom

Outputs: Bellbox X 2 (2 of front, side and back of house - not decided yet)

Outputs: Sound bomb in downstairs hallway

Outputs: Relay output to switch on the light in the downstairs hallway during entry/exit and alarm stages, in order to provide light for us when entering/leaving at night, and to illuminate an intruder.

Any comments/tips are very welcome!

Mike

28169[/snapback]

I do hope that you are going to re-wallpaper in the same stuff - cos that is cooool!!

:no:

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It was mentioned by Dave in reply to another post that pictures of DIY installations might be of interest to the site.

If it will be of interest, I'm happy to take further pictures as I go along.

28028[/snapback]

Now do a really good job and my trainees will use your pics for college as field work evidence :rolleyes:

Customers!

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All cables must be contained in a tube of sorts, firstly to give reasonable protection in a wall and protect against possible reactions with building materials and secondly to assist in re-wiring.

The comment about earthed galvanised conduit!!? How many houses do you know have galv in the walls???

Bet NICEIC will have a field day with your re-wire!?

Why Texecom 88 and not a Scantronic 9851 with 16 zones on board??

Or add expanders?

Seems like a bit of guidance needed here

PG Security Systems

Somerset

SSAIB Certificate of Merit Installers.

www.pgsecurity.co.uk

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