Brian c Posted October 19, 2004 Share Posted October 19, 2004 Second that, one of my pet hates seeing T&E connection to a spur, corner cutting in my book. 28107[/snapback] ? What's the problem? It's hardly cutting corners. It's harder to work with, more expensive and needs sleeving for the earth. In my view, flex is cutting corners. Penny pinching, it's the minimum you can get away with and less expensive. Nice to see a well installed bit of T&E to a control panel, Sheathing stripped back to the grommet, earth sleeving covering full CPC, nicely installed with a little bend in it. If you don't know......ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian c Posted October 19, 2004 Share Posted October 19, 2004 I know we are supposed to use flex to enter the panel 28158[/snapback] If you don't know......ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian c Posted October 19, 2004 Share Posted October 19, 2004 Exactly, as long as it looks good If you don't know......ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mike2004 Posted October 19, 2004 Share Posted October 19, 2004 I'm using twin & earth (2.5mm) for the run from the consumer unit to the fused connection unit (pictured above), and flex from the connection unit to the panel. The only advantage of T&E over flex is its load-capacity, and given that the connection unit will have a 2 or 3 amp fuse, I considered the choice of cable from it to the panel to be more convenience-driven! (To RICHL) - luckily not - the lead pipe in question is a redundant old pipe (now disconnected) which used to carry gas to a fireplace. Here's my latest pic - the cable to the keypad (in the downstairs hallway, near the front door). Having a cellar will make some of the cable runs quite convenient. Just had to raggle the cable down, and form a chase up to the intended site of the keypad. The current intended specification is as follows (using 8-core cable throughout): Zone 1: Front door contact Zone 2: Downstairs hall PIR (in entry zone) Zone 3: Lounge and dining room PIRs Zone 4: Upstairs hall PIR Zones 5,6,7: Other door/window contacts or vipers as necessary (not yet decided) Zone 8: PA button in master bedroom Outputs: Bellbox X 2 (2 of front, side and back of house - not decided yet) Outputs: Sound bomb in downstairs hallway Outputs: Relay output to switch on the light in the downstairs hallway during entry/exit and alarm stages, in order to provide light for us when entering/leaving at night, and to illuminate an intruder. Any comments/tips are very welcome! Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 19, 2004 Share Posted October 19, 2004 zone 3 - does that mean you have two pirs on the same zone? - not good practice, could do with them both being on seperate zones mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian c Posted October 19, 2004 Share Posted October 19, 2004 Haven't done it very often, but like to use capping when I do. Is that not a requirement for buried cabling to have some form of protection? If you don't know......ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mike2004 Posted October 19, 2004 Share Posted October 19, 2004 Haven't done it very often, but like to use capping when I do. Is that not a requirement for buried cabling to have some form of protection? 28176[/snapback] Only a requirement for mains cable, and then it must be adequate protection ie earthed galvanised steel (unless it is in a specified area, namely horizontally or vertically from a visible mains item (such as a switch or socket) or within around 7cm (I forget the exact number) from top or bottom of the wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian c Posted October 19, 2004 Share Posted October 19, 2004 alright. I was only askin' (I knew it was required for mains, just wondered if it was for others) If you don't know......ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest demuss Posted October 19, 2004 Share Posted October 19, 2004 You could use one of the 2 zones on the control panel for the door contact. This would free up a zone to split up your zone 3 dining/lounge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest IM_Alarms Posted October 19, 2004 Share Posted October 19, 2004 are you using a relay first from your relay output? You aren't just switching 230 with it are you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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