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Every time for me, cant remember the last time we glued one on. If its going to be such a chew on to fit best off not fitting the device if possible.

Originally said by Charles Babbage
On two occasions I have been asked [by members of Parliament], 'Pray, Mr. Babbage, if you put into the machine wrong figures, will the right answers come out?' I am not able rightly to apprehend the kind of confusion of ideas that could provoke such a question.

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Whys that? What better job does the screw do?

2 part epoxy ;)

you can get an industrial quality super glue as used on the shuttle for the heat tiles but. not cheap, i've used it to stick maglock's complete with z&l brackets do glass double doors - so a door contact should be no probs lol!

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

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Until you come to swap it.... Rough ****.

thats you not thinking first and jumping to conclusions again.

the Z&L BRACKETS are the bits that are epoxy glued, the maglock is bolted the brackets as is the armature, just so it is easy to replace - even by some dick head like you!

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

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So others will know, this glue is formulated to attach metal ti glass, job was subcontract for a well know keypad maker. when asked i expressed my doubts, got all sorts of caveats signed.

methid was to clean the glass with alcohol, special glass sander supplied to 'key' the area of glass. i spent ages measuring - well, who wants to muck this one up ;).

clamped it and although glue only needs an hour to fully cure, it was left clamped over the weekend.

retuned in the Monday removed clamps expecting it to fall off, but to my relief it stayed attached, Maintenance dept got a sling and hung 5 bags of sand off the brackets. we locked the door and swung on it, shuck the bedazzle out of it.

Still in place afaik, but think that door was not used in the end, i was asked to go back and do another door the exact same.

The only 'rough' part about it is you could see the brackets 'foot' from outside, so i nipped down to the local shed looking fir inspiration and bought some finger plates, which i glued to cover.

Edited by arfur mo

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

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Yup thats fine arf as large surface area results in a good bond and

glass can be a surprisingly good substrate to fix to.

Contacts though, I wouldnt, tiny surface area, rough painted surface

to glue to half the time. Not for me chef.

So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands

 

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So others will know, this glue is formulated to attach metal ti glass, job was subcontract for a well know keypad maker. when asked i expressed my doubts, got all sorts of caveats signed.

methid was to clean the glass with alcohol, special glass sander supplied to 'key' the area of glass. i spent ages measuring - well, who wants to muck this one up ;).

clamped it and although glue only needs an hour to fully cure, it was left clamped over the weekend.

retuned in the Monday removed clamps expecting it to fall off, but to my relief it stayed attached, Maintenance dept got a sling and hung 5 bags of sand off the brackets. we locked the door and swung on it, shuck the bedazzle out of it.

Still in place afaik, but think that door was not used in the end, i was asked to go back and do another door the exact same.

The only 'rough' part about it is you could see the brackets 'foot' from outside, so i nipped down to the local shed looking fir inspiration and bought some finger plates, which i glued to cover.

Abloy glass mounts use that sort of stuff. Designed for the job - ie. lock brackets.

"Bother!", said Pooh, as he found his smack had talc in it.

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  • 3 weeks later...

What's wrong with no more nails?

risk of not being able to service/replace without damage.

Agreed, it's gash.

you obviously don't go back ti the days if 'vibro's' on display windows.

Used to stick then on with Bostik or Araldite, fine in the summer but either side a real beggar ti get the glass dry enough due ti condensation.

As apposed to 2 holes in the door?

You would hope standard size contacts used, either 20mm or bar, then it is a straight swap

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

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Yup thats fine arf as large surface area results in a good bond and

glass can be a surprisingly good substrate to fix to.

Contacts though, I wouldnt, tiny surface area, rough painted surface

to glue to half the time. Not for me chef.

for contacts to glass id fit some ali angle, then tap out the fixings. ali shop doors i cut a piece of wood, then drill 20 mm magnet through wood and doors top channel, 20mm read in transom. then depends on the damper if it is in the transom how i get the cable out.

seen many if them punctured oil dripping everywhere lol!

in plastic doors that have a multi channeled profile i have used hot melt glue to retain the magnet, having discarded the plastic case. Some will do this also with the reed using white hot melt glue, possibly not the best on G3 though ;).

Edited by arfur mo

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

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Took out a contact on a UPVC sliding patio door last week, reed had been glued on with mastic.

 

Whilst the plastics popped off fairly easily, to be fair I couldn't shift the residue of the mastic, it was stuck

for life.

 

Just in case anyone's wondering how I fitted the replacement, I didn't, I replaced it with a DT as the lean-to

conservatory won't be there forever. I only took the old stuff out so the owner could see which wires were

no longer in use.

So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands

 

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Our new door is a black leaf but white inside with a white frame.

Fitted on the 18th started catching on the lower frame so they have to vome back.

Once done i will fit the contact to save any 'interferrence' arguements.

Had the fitter leave off the filler dtrip which sllows my cable slong the transom. I will then drill through hiding a surface contact beind the gasket, magnet will be in the gulley top of door so again unseen, once aligned the magnet is held in place by white hot melt glue, which is very easy to remove or adjust later with a hair dryer, then i'll fit the cover strip.

If really stuck for clearance you could discard the plastic cases and fit the reed block and ressistors inside a large nore heat shrink, again hot melt glue to secure.

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

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Our new door is a black leaf but white inside with a white frame.

Fitted on the 18th started catching on the lower frame so they have to vome back.

Once done i will fit the contact to save any 'interferrence' arguements.

Had the fitter leave off the filler dtrip which sllows my cable slong the transom. I will then drill through hiding a surface contact beind the gasket, magnet will be in the gulley top of door so again unseen, once aligned the magnet is held in place by white hot melt glue, which is very easy to remove or adjust later with a hair dryer, then i'll fit the cover strip.

If really stuck for clearance you could discard the plastic cases and fit the reed block and resistors inside a large bore heat shrink, again hot melt glue to secure.

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

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