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Cooper Menvier 9651


madern

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does anybody know how to connect a honeywell 215t pir to a cooper menvier 9651 control panel and a maximal surface contact sc517 to same control panel.my boss has chucked me in the deep end ,i have never fitted a alarm before,

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does anybody know how to connect a honeywell 215t pir to a cooper menvier 9651 control panel and a maximal surface contact sc517 to same control panel.

have you read the book yet ?

my boss has chucked me in the deep end ,i have never fitted a alarm before,

Are you working for a Richard Bonce ?

Mr th2.jpg Veritas God

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Maybe I aint reading it right, cant you wire them onto seperate zones?

Assuming you no nothing (abt alarms generally) steer clear of the resistors, rest should be doddle wiring wise (its in book), but tbo think you might struggle with the programming so maybe leave the book on bosses desk for a read?

(sorry if dissed you & would suggest always use resistors if poss)

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Madern, assuming you know nothing of alarm systems,

best advice is simply to say to your boss you are out of your depth, if this is for a client the company could be sued for any losses if the worst happens

general advice.

the panel has 'zones', these are used for individual detectors. it is not a good practice to have more than one electronic type detector (like your pir) on a zone, and not good news either to share it with a door contact as if it activates on that zone how will you know which device caused it?

while you can put several 5 door contacts onto one zone many like me, would use a separate zone for each door (if enough zones are available) as it makes any future fault finding far easier.

if not using resistors the panel requires a 'closed circuit' on all zones to be able to set, you pir or door contact acts like a switch when triggered, opening this closed circuit (commonly called a 'loop').

using resistors means the actual alarm wires used in the detectors relay are constantly monitored, the detectors action when set shorts one resistor out so reducing the ressistance value, in activation the value changes to higher level, you need to rad the engineers manual if this method is used as the correct resistors with correct wiring is vital.

inside the PIR you will see at least 6 terminals, - & + C & NC T& T,

- & + are taken from AUX 12 volts on the panel

'C & NC' are your 'closed circuit', take these to your chosen zone terminals removing any wire shorting link you find,

'T & T are the tamper switch, this is wired in series with the 'TAMP' terminals in the panel, i.e. take out one wire in the panel tamper terminals and insert one wire from your new tamper circuit, join the remaining wire to the wire removed previously using an insulated terminal block.

in the same way the door contact has a reed switch denoted by chrome screws, placing the magnet in line causes the reed switch to 'close' an give a 'closed circuit', there is no need for both components to actually touch (and they should not either), so wire say green to one end (silver screw) and blue to the other end (other silver screw).

then into a chosen zone terminals in a the panel, removing any wired link to do so,

if using a 'tamper' this is done by twisting 2 spare wires say yellow and white twisted together and then placed under a a spare brass terminal.

what colours you use are your choice, electricity is colour blind. best you decide on your 'colour code' and perhaps draw it all out on paper beforehand

the detection may and most likely then need to be programmed correctly for the proper if any response.

Arfur

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

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Not a personal thing James, but IMO its morally wrong to charge for something when the person doing it has no idea.

Good luck anyway O/P, its your boss in the wrong i guess.

I don't think the OP has said where and for who he is fitting the alarm. Fair assumption it is for someone else but it might just be on their own company building and the boss is a tight wad and won't pay for it doing properly.

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