
al-yeti
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Posts posted by al-yeti
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3 hours ago, MrHappy said:
Inside a yale round radio sounder is switch to disconnect it,
whether the panel does a tamper or has polling..... I have no idea
Yes we'll just like there cp on rear lift off turn off
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57 minutes ago, ijustwantsleep said:
My brother shut the whole thing off and the battery was so dead that the alarm didn't go off at all anyway lol. So all is good, house is now completely unprotected, I can finally sleep peacefully.
Thanks for the entertaining comments everyone!;)
Sleep peacefully
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13 hours ago, james.wilson said:
Everyone assumes there is a code that kills systems. The golden burgler code.
Its not yale it wont be easy to kill. If you want a security system that is easy to defeat keep looking away from our stuff
I never new Yale had a kill switch ........
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1 hour ago, planetf1 said:
Ok thanks.. understand re codes. Agree about the bell. I presume it's internal batteries are flat (the system has not been maintained) in addition to the internal panel battery which I know has gone. The system is ~4 years old, and probably never been maintained.i
Option d
Is probably better for you , your going to end up paying something even as diyer
However is the cost of paying someone when you want to diy ,cheaper than buying just the panel new?
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1 hour ago, ijustwantsleep said:
I found that pressing 0 makes it sleep for half an hour but then goes back on and it hasn't stopped any longer than that since. Anyone have any idea please before I end up ripping it out and throwing it into the road?((: The manual is completely useless.
Change battery?
Rip off wall about 10am, let bell ring and then smash bell off after, thats Incase it triggers at nite for reasons only affecting u lol
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1 hour ago, rpatel2 said:
Many thanks for your response @al-yeti
I was wondering, the page numbers you've quoted. What guide is that referring to? Is this the configuration manual?
Ok just go online get the ion installation manual and search eol
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Page 14, 15,16
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1 hour ago, rpatel2 said:
Hi all
I've recently purchased a new build home and unfortunately, the developer didn't offer the option to lay alarm cable for a wired installation.
Due to financial constraints, i wanted to fit a predominately wireless system myself. I purchased a I-on40H kit with 3 x wireless PIRs, 1 x wireless door contact and 1 x wireless keypad. I also separately purchased one wired sounder.
I wanted to fit one additional wired PIR and i have a spare texecom wired PIR from my parents alarm system. Can i use this in my system? This PIR will involve an extremely short cable run from the panel, probably less than 1.5m. Please note, my alarm system isn't live yet as I'm waiting for an electrician to fit a spur which can power the controller, but i've been reading up on the manuals.
I wasn't planning on using any wired PIRs, but i thought since I have this spare one, perhaps it might be useful and much cheaper than getting another wireless one. I'm getting a bit confused regarding the resistors, however, i know this texecom PIR has a built-in resistor (if required - using jumper settings)
I have 6 core alarm cable, and i was going to use all 6 cores in my wiring. There are no other wired PIRs or wired door contacts, this one texecom PIR will be the only wired detector in my whole system.
I'm not quite sure if I need a resistor or where it goes, at present i've assumed I don't need it and the texecom PIR jumper setting is left open.
There is already a 2k2 resistor inserted between AUX and TAMP, i would remove this.
Can some please validate attached my wiring diagram, assuming texecom wired PIR would work.
Many thanks for your help in advance,
You don't need that aux tamper
Just set the pir resistor jumpers according to the panel resistor settings
And then you only need to connect the zone from the panel to the pir outer terminals one alarm one tamper one wire to each , other two terminals then stay unconnected
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8 minutes ago, dazza10 said:
I've got an really old Optima MX6 system in my house, its a rental so over the years someone has been snip happy and cut wires away from the siren/speaker etc. I thought i'd give it a go and enable it again after finding out how to reset the codes. However the keypad isn't functioning and looking at it closer the tracks are burnt out and diagnosing it with a multimeter continuity isn't there either so the tracks are worn to the point i cba repairing them. However all the wiring and voltages test good for the rest of the system.
So onto my main question
I'm looking to replace the panel with something a bit more in with todays standards but reuse the wiring and replace PIRs if needed. Ideal if it could have some smart function so i could arm/disarm away from home and a wireless keypad?
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
Diy
Scantronics ion 40
Still has free app connection
However it will take some time to set it up and depending on your ability complete it by yourself
Bonus is if any wires damaged else where you can still go wireless
Worth looking at cost and time and hassle and see if a local installer will do it for you
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8 hours ago, james.wilson said:
is that for the dualcom badge?
Lol they can buy a sticker from ebay
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1 hour ago, PeterJames said:
Mostly locksmiths and photo copiers shops installing it round these parts. I understand why people would use their local locksmith to install alarm tat, but photocopying shops selling alarms and CCTV on the side just seems bizarre
Extra money spinner
I see fire companies using it for key holder call outs
Just now, al-yeti said:Extra money spinner
I see fire companies using it for key holder call outs
They add a dualcom or something else to it tho lol
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55 minutes ago, MrHappy said:
I thought they renamed it Cif ?
Suprised many are using it though
However ajax? If only they knew it was a cleaning product back in the day
Kit isn't bad though as some have said , I think they might be ahead of the game compared to orisec aswell , although orisec have more en stuff ?...
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7 hours ago, Amina said:
Ajax is certified with Grade 2 by TrezorTest, an accredited Czech company with an excellent reputation in Europe https://ajax.systems/blog/what-is-a-security-grade/
So basically not certified in uk
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13 hours ago, MrHappy said:
one for the fanatics ?
unless it a sunny they say it lexus....
Or infinity
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5 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:
I thought you had swapped the RIO?
It's galaxy thing
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41 minutes ago, martinhendo said:
First ever post on here..
Been in and around the F&S installation game for a few years now but have never come across this, maybe one of you guys could shine some light on it.
New installation of a 264, Line 1 has 2 x C072's and 1 x P026, no RKP or other modules on the bus, everything is programmed and tested on this line.
Line 2 has 5 x C072's and 2 x P026's, along with 1 CP037 RKP and MX4 Prox.
Rio's are addressed from 201 > 207, all devices on Rios 201 > 206 have been tested with no issues, RKP and Prox reader function as expected
On to the issue, Rio 207 (Furthest away from main panel, power sourced from Rio 205, 23m distance, 680 resistor fitted and link removed in panel) 13.8 v @ Rio 207.
On carrying out a walk test on each zone individually, Z2073 a DT along with Z2077 a DC gave no response to the walk test.
The other 6 zones had no issues.
The zone resistances of Z2073/Z2077 via option 21, 1K ohms when closed, and when resistance rises to 1K9 (roughly) the panel still returns a closed message, all zones are set to default EOL.
Replaced DT and DC, and tested cables from them @ the Rio, 1k closed, 1K9 Open (roughly) on each. Tested the cable from the detection end while connected to Rio, shows S/C on panel around 12 Ohms resistance.
Swapped the Rio for another that's known to work and the same issue remained..
Honeywell may be getting a call when I am back @ site..
Your input would be appreciated..
What happens if you add another Rio on the end ? Programme it in
Sounds like job for jw or gg or some dude in err can't remember rich?
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On 04/12/2022 at 00:43, Imnotshankled said:
They are actually plain old alkaline D batteries
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22 hours ago, Imnotshankled said:
I have just seen my first AX Pro alarm and I'm really not a fan the user interface is horrible and I'm sure it has some untrustworthy software
It worse than ajax
But looks better than orisec right?
12 hours ago, james.wilson said:wow that bad. I dont think any pro installer will use it yet, but was surprised how ajax did with a self cert.
I think any equipment sold to not meet the requirement it claims should be removed and all certificates and insurance revoked
Osec_Hikvision_AX_PRO_certificaat.pdf
Looks as certified as any other panel no?
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6 hours ago, james.wilson said:
IMO anyone you doesnt program lock (engineer lock isnt the right word)their config will have an issue and so will their insurer.
However the programming is the IP of the programmer. The equipment etc belongs to whoever purchased it
Great , so lock all panels and no one can prove who locked it and how the programming was done last or by who
Seeing as hkc doesn't have a back door , unless you know of one (barring being connected to securecom and know your remote code not exactly a back door tho)
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34 minutes ago, james.wilson said:
Its a shame but the original programmer/co keeps the liability. Its something I want to change because it should be the incoming co/person. Unfortunately it isnt. Panels that allow code defaults are a liability. However i know how it looks but check your policy because you arnt fully insured they chase the one that is. If thats you oops
I don't get this
Your incoming and previous company is liable?
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2 hours ago, Imnotshankled said:
There is no way to default just the codes unfortunately
Lol
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1 hour ago, Modern Alarms said:
Many thanks for the prompt reply, we are upgrading the system but cant do it until the new year due to ongoing work commitments and so just trying to get a working system for the chap.
How many zones in use? Just wondering, as even if you change engineer code flaff around when you can change the panel in less time and find faults easier with new panel
All’s well except the buzzy transformer
in Introduce Yourself
Posted
Ebay have used ones cheap enough to try
I assume you made this post at the local library if your not upgrading your tech much , good to repair I guess