Whiteside46 Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 Hi all, wondering if you guys can help. I’m looking to swap out my bell box for a new one. I have a Honeywell Galaxy 2 system, with from what I can see an unbranded bell box. I have put the system into Engineer Mode, but the tamper on the bell box keeps sounding the siren. I have tried removing power supply to the bell box, and also connecting the strobe to 0v in order to activate the Engineer Hold Off. Or so I thought. Both resulted in the alarm sounding. I was under the impression that engineer mode was supposed to mute all tampers? I have attached a couple of pictures, if anyone could advise how to mute the tampers on the bell box so I can replace it. Just now, Whiteside46 said: Hi all, wondering if you guys can help. I’m looking to swap out my bell box for a new one. I have a Honeywell Galaxy 2 system, with from what I can see an unbranded bell box. I have put the system into Engineer Mode, but the tamper on the bell box keeps sounding the siren. I have tried removing power supply to the bell box, and also connecting the strobe to 0v in order to activate the Engineer Hold Off. Or so I thought. Both resulted in the alarm sounding. I was under the impression that engineer mode was supposed to mute all tampers? I have attached a couple of pictures, if anyone could advise how to mute the tampers on the bell box so I can replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 Nope put your earplugs in and get on with it, be careful not to zap yourself on the strobe if it fires up. Some sounders have an engineer hold off that you can trigger but that one will not. If your not confident how to do it, ask an installer to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiteside46 Posted February 23, 2022 Author Share Posted February 23, 2022 Thanks for your reply. I’m assuming the sounder itself has a battery backup, if I whip the lid off quickly and pull the battery connection that should stop it shouldn’t it? I’m replacing it with a pyronix Deltabell. what’s my best course of action, existing bell lid off and disconnect from there? Or disconnect the supply, tamper and strobe connections from the main box first? I’ve attached a picture of the internals of the new deltabell. should I be good to go with the existing cable? Or is there anything else I will need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 1 hour ago, Whiteside46 said: Thanks for your reply. I’m assuming the sounder itself has a battery backup, if I whip the lid off quickly and pull the battery connection that should stop it shouldn’t it? I’m replacing it with a pyronix Deltabell. what’s my best course of action, existing bell lid off and disconnect from there? Or disconnect the supply, tamper and strobe connections from the main box first? I’ve attached a picture of the internals of the new deltabell. should I be good to go with the existing cable? Or is there anything else I will need? Just disconnect the power and battery in the bell first Then goto panel and remove connections there Existing cable should work ,unless your using a four core Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiteside46 Posted February 23, 2022 Author Share Posted February 23, 2022 29 minutes ago, al-yeti said: Just disconnect the power and battery in the bell first Then goto panel and remove connections there Existing cable should work ,unless your using a four core Thanks again, it’s more than 4 core, with unused cores. What needs to be connected to the ENG HOLD? Is it possible to have that function with my control board? why are there 2 Tamper terminals in the new bell, is that power to bell and the switched output back to the board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyha Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 Hi Earplugs or ear defenders are a bit of a must (mind you I don't recall bothering when I was doing this, but that was in the 80's.) The sounder will be a self activating device and will have a battery in it. Remove the cover (will activate the sounder) and disconnect the battery internal to the sounder. That should silence the sounder - unless it is being driven active by the panel. Mark the cables at both ends or take good photos so that you know what the cores do. Disconnect the + and - at the panel to make the cables in the sounder "safe". At this point you should be OK to disconnect the sounder (it is not a bad idea to put the cores into a connector block to keep them from touching. For the new sounder, + and - is obvious. Terminals marked T are for tamper - take these down to an input on the panel (don't forget the resistor matrix unless the new sounder has selectable resistors). You can possible use the panel T terminal but that is a power return so you would have to work out which of the two T terminals on the sounder will connect to the single panel T terminal. "bell" is the sounder input - this connect to the panel output programmed as "Intruder" - looks like 1003. "Strobe" will go to 1004 by the look of it. As Al-yeti has advised this required a 6 core (which it looks like you have from the picture) but you can't use the "eng hold" terminal unless you can get away with a single T core. Either set the jumpers on the sounder to match the programming of the panel or change the panel to match the jumpers. Don't mix and match programming and jumpers - there lies the path to madness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiteside46 Posted February 23, 2022 Author Share Posted February 23, 2022 4 minutes ago, Andyha said: Hi Earplugs or ear defenders are a bit of a must (mind you I don't recall bothering when I was doing this, but that was in the 80's.) The sounder will be a self activating device and will have a battery in it. Remove the cover (will activate the sounder) and disconnect the battery internal to the sounder. That should silence the sounder - unless it is being driven active by the panel. Mark the cables at both ends or take good photos so that you know what the cores do. Disconnect the + and - at the panel to make the cables in the sounder "safe". At this point you should be OK to disconnect the sounder (it is not a bad idea to put the cores into a connector block to keep them from touching. For the new sounder, + and - is obvious. Terminals marked T are for tamper - take these down to an input on the panel (don't forget the resistor matrix unless the new sounder has selectable resistors). You can possible use the panel T terminal but that is a power return so you would have to work out which of the two T terminals on the sounder will connect to the single panel T terminal. "bell" is the sounder input - this connect to the panel output programmed as "Intruder" - looks like 1003. "Strobe" will go to 1004 by the look of it. As Al-yeti has advised this required a 6 core (which it looks like you have from the picture) but you can't use the "eng hold" terminal unless you can get away with a single T core. Either set the jumpers on the sounder to match the programming of the panel or change the panel to match the jumpers. Don't mix and match programming and jumpers - there lies the path to madness Thanks for the in depth walk through. im still confused by the Tamper wiring. Looks like the panel has one Tamper input, whereas the new bell has two. The new bell was packed with a loose resistor. When you say match the bell jumpers to match the panel, I can’t see any jumpers on the panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 32 minutes ago, Whiteside46 said: Thanks again, it’s more than 4 core, with unused cores. What needs to be connected to the ENG HOLD? Is it possible to have that function with my control board? why are there 2 Tamper terminals in the new bell, is that power to bell and the switched output back to the board? One leg of the tamper connects to 0v I think look at instructions Take a wire to the eng hold , if you have spare output or you can manually apply 0v I think to it , to hold off the tamper if you ever need to open it in the future 25 minutes ago, Whiteside46 said: Thanks for the in depth walk through. im still confused by the Tamper wiring. Looks like the panel has one Tamper input, whereas the new bell has two. The new bell was packed with a loose resistor. When you say match the bell jumpers to match the panel, I can’t see any jumpers on the panel. You only need to change the batt select jumper to int , to the left , if all of them are currently according to your last picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 And lastly don't forget to tighten your back wall tamper screw , if it has one ....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiteside46 Posted February 23, 2022 Author Share Posted February 23, 2022 11 minutes ago, al-yeti said: And lastly don't forget to tighten your back wall tamper screw , if it has one ....... thanks everyone for your help. found the manual online. I’m guessing The Control panel Tamper connection (TR) goes to T on the bell. in terms of the 0v for the second T on the bell, should I take that from the panel, or loop it from the 0v in the bell supply? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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